Yellowsugga

This makes sense. Hopefully I can bring my p800 back to proper working order after the head strike. 

On 10/9/2022 at 5:29 AM, anum11 said:

P800 printhead is F196040. So it can be used as F196030(p600), F196020, F196010(r3000 and 3880), F196000(3800 i think).

P600 printhead F196030 can be used for below too but not for P800.

same goes for for R2000 R1900 etc. But p400 head is completely diffirent.

So does this mean the printhead from the R3000 would work in the P800? I think i wrecked my P800 with a head strike. Could I swap a printhead from a R3000 into it?

On 6/9/2022 at 1:40 PM, johnson4 said:

Here I will just post random information about the P5000, may or may not be useful. With time I will post timings for The P5000 print speeds, how well it works and overall tips and tricks for it's use. 

 

Two things I DO NOT like about this printer- It has an ink system similar to the P600, Meaning it uses a diaphragm pump for the ink. This was a point of failure on the P600's. I was hoping/expecting an actual pressurized ink system like on the P800. It has an actual air pump that pressurizes the ink cartridges with air. This prevents color drop outs, clogs, and many other perks compared to a gravity fed/diaphragm pump system. On my p600's, this was ALWAYS a point of failure on 8+ machines I ran for years. While it was avoidable with 2-3 month cleaning schedule to flush the manifold, it took alot of time to complete and was a pain. To reiterate, the ink pump in the p600 uses diaphram type pumps for each channel that is in contact with the ink, rather than air pushing the ink to the head. These springs and rubber valves and tiny holes eventually get " sludged" and stop working correctly from the white ink pigment. 

 

Hopefully there is a better designed system with in the P5000. 

 

The p5000 has a built in self-feeding roll holder that fits the DTF rolls perfectly. It has a vacuum table to prevent head strikes. The 200 ML carts are resettable with a chip resitter. It's not to me, because it will actually tell me how much ink is remaining instead of guessing or running out like with chipless firmware. for smaller cartridges or CISS systems this is very annoying, but here it plays nicely into the whole idea. 

 

The cartridges themselves are $3.50 each, or $35 per set of 10. The chips are $32 a set, so $67 plus shipping from overseas. if you buy a few sets and some replacement parts it makes them less than $85 a set with chips. Resetters were about $35 each, one for the waste one for the chips. for about $250 you can have yourself two full sets of chipped carts and two resetters- all you need to get started. 

 

After that, Cadlink does 14 12" X 12" prints with this machine per hour. It's not bad at all for cadlink print speeds. I have yet to test anything else but I will have print time and quality comparisons like I have done in the past with cadlink, acro 10.5, ekprint. 

 

I like that is it big and open, it's easy to work on, I feel like Epson will discontinue this model within the next 12 months though, so I'm trying to get my testing out of the way post-haste. 

 

I have high hopes for this machine, I have been asking all of the " top" people around about this printer for about a year. I'm glad they ignored me when what I said upset them ( simply asking for facts from them). Now I have it first hand because of this. I have a feeling this will shock some people, However I have expected it from this machine for over a year. It's not a pissing contest for me. For me, It is the thrill of learning about a new printer and learning any new tricks I can find to better the cause and bringing actual backed-up information to the table. I have a reason for everything I do, and can prove it. I'm not here to make friends, likes, or sell you something. I'm here because this forum brought my idea's and hopes to life years ago. I like helping people with a real effort involved, not blatantly giving out answers without any reason other than an opinion. If I don't have time to explain why or what testing led to my conclusion, I don't say it because this is how misinformation spreads.

 

So anything posted within this thread is from hands on use, and in some cases I may be wrong. While I do test multiple times and look for a repeatable pattern,  Please question me if you like It helps me verify further with more evidence my beliefs from an educated/tested standpoint. I'm not here to make a " win" for myself. I am here to just as a whole, or community, build up the knowledge on things so the people who are involved working from different angles can all reap the rewards as a whole. That's the idea anyway. 

Could you please post the link to where you purchased the refillable cartridges and chips? I'd rather buy from somewhere reputable and where we have first hand experience that it works as advertised.

Yes that's exactly what I heard about the XL2. One of the biggest problems for us here in Canada is the support for these machines. Also the retail price of almost 30k CAD for the XL2 is insane. 

Id rather buy 10 of these p5000's and throw them away as they break. And like you said needing 2 heads at over 1k each that's like buying a new p5000 each time. 

I'll give Acro rip a try. I haven't used Cadlink much so I'm not vested in it. My priority is quality and speed. Would you say Acro rip.is faster?

On another note, I'm looking for a second/backup printer. Would you recommend a p800 after having both the p5000 and p800? The only drawback of the p5000 is the size vs the p800. In terms and speed and quality of the machine and print, what would you recommend? I'd even consider the p6000 since I can get one brand new for around 3k. Only drawback is the size. 

Thanks I'll have a look in the settings but I couldn't find any other ones but I'll try the production setting as you suggested. 

The DTF station A3+R was just a 1390 with some added features which all broke. Blew the orinthead and motherboard after less than 2 months of use. Can't believe I got tricked into paying close to 5k CAD for that POS. The Canadian retailer I bought it from stopped selling that model shortly after I bought it because they had too much problems with it and the after sales support was insane. 

It was super slow barely getting 8-10 Sqft per hour. When I took it apart to replace the motherboard I realized how badly made it was. They also sold me the 13 inch shaker for 8k CAD. Luckily I can use it with this p5000. 

They offered to take the printer back and reimburse me 4k for it if I upgrade to the XL2 24" dual.head printer for another 18k CAD. Luckily I learned my lesson and started oing some research before making another huge mistake. I realized how bad that DTF station printer was when I converted my 10 year old 1430 for 60$ in carts and it printer almost as good of not better than that 5k piece of junk. 

Super glad I got this p5000 and if it last me a year I'll be happy and pick up another one or a p6000. At under 3k these are way better options than the 15-25k dtf station crap. 

On 7/8/2023 at 7:09 AM, johnson4 said:

Hopefully it does. They’ve been good. I learn something new all the time so don’t beat yourself up if you break something. I do it all the time, it’s how I learn. 

After tinkering with this all night, I finally got this to work. Thanks again for all your help. This printer is so "smart" compared to the Chinese printers its crazy. One question , I have is even though I'm using the Epson SC-5000 DTV v2 printer profile, I don't seem to be able to print past 1440x720 as that's the only profile in Cadlink. The other option is "Default" with my other printers (1430 and A3+R from DTF Station), I'm able to chose between multiple printing options. Is there a way to do this with this printer?

Sorry I just re read your post and you say you are using the CMYK on the right side. Does this mean you are putting yellow in the LK (middle) slot? Previously, I thought I would use the oem yellow slot for yellow (3rd slot left side). Any benefit from having the left side all white (is it due to nozzle cleaning pairs etc)? Also, when you say you are using a cleaner cartridge for the Matt Black, does that mean you are just filling up a refillable with cleaning solution or is there a specific cleaning cartridge. I do have the OEM carts still, is there any harm in leaving the oem matt black cartridge in there (same as the channels left blank).

Sorry for all the specific questions, as usually I'd just go with my gut instinct and do whatever, but having broken so many DTF printers, I've learned sometimes its best to learn from the pros before trying things on my own since the parts for these things are rare and often expensive. Learned my lesson breaking a 5K Canadian DTF station A3+R which was pure junk and such an over priced POS.

Thanks so much for the clarification. I think your setup makes the most sense to me as well. Hopefully it works for me as well as it does for you. 

One quick question, I'm using CADLINK Digital Factory 10 and it shows the following colour profile. Should I follow this profile or can I change this in CADLINK? Follow this profile, I would put 

Yellow in channel 2 where LLK should be

Cyan in channel 4 where Light Cyan should be 

Magenta in channel 5 where Light Magenta should be

Black where Light Black should be in position 9

White as indicated in the channels indicated.

A Few Questions:

1. What do I do with the green and orange channels (Leave them as is or cleaning fluids?)

2. Why is Cadlink using channel 2 for Yellow instead of the OEM Yellow Channel?

3. Should I really fill all 5 channels with white right away as indicated? Or should I leave some empty in case some channels get clogged. Is there a way in CADLINK to turn off some of the channels?

Thanks in advance

Thanks for the suggestion and clarification. That's the method I was leaning towards too as well. I'll try this tonight. Thanks again. 

Thanks for the quick reply. I have been reading your post about flushing the system to get rid of the white ink sludge buildup and I'll definitely do that once I start printing with this thing. My question was more of what's the recommended solution for converting and flushing out the oem inks of an existing non dtf p5000. I do understand the basic concepts but was wo during if there was any insight regarding the first flush and addition of the DTF inks. From a practical perspective just adding the new carts and printing a bunch of purge files or performing nozzle checks seems the more economical.way vs having a second set of cartridges filled with cleaning solution (piezo flush for example). I'll do some more reading and see if thus has been discussed previously.  Thanks again. 

Hey everyone. Just found this forum and it's super helpful. Just got a P5000 and would like to convert it to DTF. Is there a FAQ somewhere regarding best practices to do this conversion? I have the refillable carts. Is it best to just switch the dtf carts in and just print and do nozzle checks until the old ink is gone or is it better to use csrts filled with cleaning fluids to flush the lines?