PITA
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Posts posted by PITA
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On 3/27/2017 at 6:09 PM, UVDTG said:
Good to know.
Now I'm wondering if a lower wattage LED on the left side of the head to do a "pre-cure", then a strip of higher wattage LEDs on the front edge would be enough to work.
I read from a professional UV printer maker that they post-cure (probably in the same way you are thinking of) to make sure all ink is properly cured.
Just a little pre-curing might not be good as the ink could still flow around causing a not so accurate print quality.
On the left side you have, I think, 10 mm (3/8 inch). That is enough space for LEDs of 30, maybe even 40 W. Usually that is enough to cure the ink. In some cases it might not be; then post-curing would be indicated. -
On 11/6/2019 at 9:55 PM, Andy - Admin said:
I've used this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32834774871.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.10.29c713a5elvYfN
But the LED was a bit too wide.
I'll try this one next time:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004616274.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.ca113c00UbrTtl&mp=1
Others can chime in on what they've used
It feels a bit pricy to me... less then 100 W for $400+ (incl. shipping).
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It might help to do convert from RGB to CMYK before importing to AcroRip (via TIF) and then print without ICC in AcroRip.
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I tried a soft ink (no brand).
It works, but needs more curing then usual and it's not the same as DTG in terms of the feel - but yes, it works with that soft ink I always use. -
On 7/6/2020 at 11:29 AM, reptilesink said:
It will do it OK.
Depending in the leds and the heat sink used you don't always need water cooling and just a fan for air exchange is enough.
Yes, a fan can be sufficient for 30W curing LED (personal experience).
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On 7/6/2020 at 12:22 PM, reptilesink said:
Where did you get such a small 4 x 10 W LED?
Highest power I found of that size was 4x 5 W.The small UV printers from China use 30W for curing, which is usually OK but can be too less in some cases.
Having an LED of just 10mm width would be coolWould you mind sharing?
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On 8/8/2020 at 9:48 PM, fotosdeoro said:
Hello, from what I have read in the forum, you have to change the ink containers, hoses, dampers and everything that has contact with the common ink, since the uv ink eats it ... some models have a resistant head to uv ink, others not.
You have to replace clear tanks and hoses for black ones to make then "UV-tight"
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"Is there more than one type of UV inks? "
NO, there are
- flexible ink for flexible media - AKA soft ink and
- hard ink for non-flexible media, like glass and metal."what's the best type of UV ink to use on a regular Epson printer?"
NONE as long as you don't have a UV-LED to cure it. UV ink never dries - well, it would if you put it in the sun (UV ray). But till then it won't.
If you installed UV-LEDs - it depends on that you print on.
"without any modification, is this true?"
NO, an L805 has no UV-LED build in.I hope that helps.
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On 9/3/2019 at 9:03 PM, mwfigueroa said:
Isn't that too big? Usually there are just 10mm of space, no?
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What is not working? That is the questions.
I got a similar printer (Erasmart). It printed, but bad quality. The head caddy was broken. Could get it from China.
UV Led printer
in UV Flatbed Printers
Posted
Yes, I think even alcohol is better. I had fluids sold on the market that seemed to rather clog the head then flush it.
If you think about it how they are sold in China, they might just stick the wrong label on the bottle...