So just an update- I received my Genuine Omron relays today for the Mini shaker.
First thing I noticed, they weigh over twice as much per relay. They have markings on the relays showing they are compliant and have a conformity stamp.
The 2nd thing I noticed, is they are rated for 12 Amps( at 240 volts), ( which is actually more fitting for the current the heater pulls on the mini shaker).
From what I can tell, ALL genuine Omron relays are stamped " Made In Indonesia" At least, all the one's I have found. If it says Made in china, Probably not authentic.
I bought several units from various places, Ebay, Amazon, compatible units, etc. So far, all of them have been knock off's except the one's ordered from an electronic supplier, which actually shipped in the original OEM packaging.
Overall, the device is much heavier, and built much better. The wire gauge inside the relay is thicker and more fitting, all the solder joints are very well done instead of " welded" like the clone units. The contact's appear to be much better quality, From my perspective the "contacts" appear to be much better. I personally feel MUCH more comfortable with these running inside the unit instead of the clones. Time will tell, but I think it will be fine. After seeing the clones after a couple months of use, You would easily be replacing them 3-4 times a year if you actually use the machine daily.
So the Clones cost me around $8, some came with the base. In general the price varied between $5-10 some with and without the base.
The Genuine Relays Cost me $9.71, without the base and without shipping, It's a flat $7.50 for shipping no matter how many you order.
I'll test these out, and also order a Solid State Relay and test that as well.
In the end, I just want a reliable machine that I can repair on the spot if an issue occurs, as I'm sure all of us do.
If anyone needs part numbers for the relays, Just let me know.
They have two compatible versions, one with the LED light and one without, both at 12A.
Johson4, incredible information. Thanks so much for taking the time to put it together and share. I'd love to follow your advice and replace those relays. Would you mind sharing the part numbers? BTW- No rubber grommet for roll motor cable on mine either. I also have scorching on one of the relays. I've also been puzzled by the mystery fluid. Mine mostly runs down the front / roll side of the machine, but often gets on the underside of the film and really messes things up on otherwise flawless prints. It occasionally makes its way to the powder bin. Unrelated note. I saw that the Audley shaker has an anti-static ionizer bar to cut down on excess powder due to static. I can't find a cost appropriate bar sized for the mini-shaker, but am going to try an anti-static ionizer fan ($58) lightly hitting the film at different points. I'll check back with results. I'm guessing there's even more of a static charge issue in dry climates like PHX? I'm not sure if I'm reading it all right, but seems to me like if you have too much humidity, then the humidity itself causes excess powder to feed through. Little to no humidity means there's more static, which also pulls excess powder through. Thanks again.
DTF Mini shaker relay and other concerns.
in General Direct to Film Discussion
Posted
Johson4, incredible information. Thanks so much for taking the time to put it together and share. I'd love to follow your advice and replace those relays. Would you mind sharing the part numbers? BTW- No rubber grommet for roll motor cable on mine either. I also have scorching on one of the relays. I've also been puzzled by the mystery fluid. Mine mostly runs down the front / roll side of the machine, but often gets on the underside of the film and really messes things up on otherwise flawless prints. It occasionally makes its way to the powder bin. Unrelated note. I saw that the Audley shaker has an anti-static ionizer bar to cut down on excess powder due to static. I can't find a cost appropriate bar sized for the mini-shaker, but am going to try an anti-static ionizer fan ($58) lightly hitting the film at different points. I'll check back with results. I'm guessing there's even more of a static charge issue in dry climates like PHX? I'm not sure if I'm reading it all right, but seems to me like if you have too much humidity, then the humidity itself causes excess powder to feed through. Little to no humidity means there's more static, which also pulls excess powder through. Thanks again.