reptilesink

I have a similar problem amd no white prints.

I load an rgb file but the rip says its cmyk and prints without white even though its selected.

I load a cmyk file and the same happens

If I load an old file that's rgb it prints perfect.

They all print correctly on a different computer using the same software.

I have tried a reinstall of the rip bit no difference. 

2 hours ago, Boyan said:

i can not find any other way of disabling the status monitor than unchecking all boxes   on the monitoring preferences.  i dont use the wifi and also there  seems to be no place from where to disable it

 

Wicreset can disable it.

If it doesn't power on check the main power transistors as they usually blow.

With the cartridges before you remove them put the bung in the air vent.

Its normal for it to say it failed at about 98-99%.

Check the firmware version using wic reset.

You should find it has changed to the new firmware in which case run licence.exe and enter the unlock key

17 hours ago, Perseot said:

thank you reptilesink
the code is available ??

Sorry but it isn't. 

I get all my firmware from chiplesssolutions.com 

Look for t3661 resetter you should see more results.

L1800 roll printing already exists.

13 hours ago, anum11 said:

I think designing Hardware is not the problem, but software or driver is the Real problem here. 

Just an arduino and some relays to connect to the paper feed motor etc.

I'm going to have to start playing with some ideas myself as I have plenty of printers now and growing weekly so its time to pull my finger out.

So far there's 2x R3000, 3800, p600, p800, 3x L1800, 4x L805.

I have ideas for similar to yours but keeping it as small as possible.

Presumably some things would need lengthening depending on the printer as the L1800 is popular but very slow so a short run between the printer, powder and curing would be possible but for faster printers a longer run would be required so it has a larger heating area to make sure its done before leaving the heating area.

Do you know if it makes any difference if cured from above or below?

I'll look into this as I have code and connections to control the feed roller to position the film for the L1800 in roll mode but haven't built the printer yet.

They get incredibly hot.

I used to build powder coated head guards for reptile lamps and I tried one of these without a thermostat to see what would happen to the guard and the powder coating melted, the temperature was beyond the range of the thermometer I was using.

I then built a larger oven for powder coating using these as the heat source.

Yes there are plenty of plug/socket choices, even something as simple a the d type like the old serial ports which come in a range of pin numbers from 9 pin upwards.

I'll look at that later and can just wire direct while testing and then see just how many wires there are.

As for the trough heaters they usually last a very long time, I've never had to replace one yet and the newest one is getting on for 10 years. Usually its the thermostat that fails.

You wilm find that if it has 5 ink channels there will be a standard black and a photo black.

These usually share the same nozzles so couldn't be used with 1 black and 1 white.

Also most white inks just about get by with 2 white channels and ideally 4 so even if it was possible the result would be bad.

48 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

Sounds like a good idea. I didn’t even know those existed.

They come in a range of sizes and wattage.

Usually they last for many years as well.

I have used them for about 14 years for my reptile vivariums.

I'm also looking at using a couple of ceramic trough heaters controlled with a pulse thermostat for curing the film on a conveyor system.

Indeed I will share if I ever get chance to work on them.

Yes I have seen the ones using fans which is what mine will be based on.

I will utilise the space inside the tray for the electronics for the ink circulation/flushing system. 

I also have a code to control the paper feed so you can use a roll of film for the L1800 and again all the electronics will go in the tray and all control buttons for everything and a display for the timer adjustment can be neatly mounted on the tray so its just a matter of a single multi pin socket on the printer to plug everything into.

Its more curiosity for me at this stage so can just take my time to work things out.

Looking good so far.

I'm looking at building a couple of printers myself out of curiosity as I have 2x L1800 sat doing nothing.

I'm looking at building an output tray with a vacuum holding the film flat and adding ink circulation and valves that you turn to allow flush to be delivered to all channels and time controlled to automatically flush if unused after a set time.

There's just so many possibilities that can be done with them.

You just need to fit the uv light to the side of the head and a switch to trigger it.

Change everything involving ink over to uv suitable parts.

Just untick one of the 2 white inks, either left or right.

For dtf you just remove the front rollers and make a paper output tray.

They need to be removed regardless as the ink remains wet and with the rollers in they will put lines through the print.

Think I will have to give DTF a try myself. Just got a p600 with ciss system for £10 including postage.

For using 2 white you select to just use 2 of the 4 whites in the print settings.