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JaRugz

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Posts posted by JaRugz

  1.  I was wondering about the layout you used for your inks.  I saw in one of your posts that you'll be using a CMYKWW setup.

    Does this means you'll only be using the 6 slots on the left? if so, what will you have in the slots on the right.

    Also, I notice some of these new printers (mostly the chinese models) also have LM & LC inks.  Will these work in the P5000 as well.

     

    Thanks as always for your help and advice. 

  2. 26 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

    Are you using dtg ink on the film from the f2100? 

    I was kinda surprised a few months ago to find a one year old video of a company in Europe promoting DTF printing using the F2100.  Couldn’t understand a word they were saying, but the settings they used were visible so I tried it and it worked perfectly.  

  3. 23 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

    Are you using dtg ink on the film from the f2100? 

    Yes, I’m using the DTG inks.

    I know the inks have improved since I last purchased some.   I should be purchasing some of the newer inks available in a few weeks once my cartridges arrive and I flush this printer out and have it ready.

  4. 8 hours ago, johnson4 said:

    If your talking about the original from like 10 months ago ( last year)  I would probably try some new ink- wouldn't hurt anyway. 

    Cool to hear the F2100 is giving good results though!. 

    Yes….that’s the inks I’m still using.  I’ll probably sell the old printer (R3000), as I just got a 4800 that I’m about to try and convert, so I’ll definitely be purchasing new inks soon.

    My big worry tho are the films as I couldn’t understand why they worked almost perfect with the F2100, but not with the R3000.

    I’ve been told that the best, most consistent PET films in the transfer industry ARE actually made in Europe, but I don’t know if anyone here in the USA are selling films from Europe..

  5. That’s what had me wondering…..because I have been unable to get any decent print on a converted DTF printer, The colors vary with each print and the white prints are sometimes really good and 2 or 3 prints later….really bad. On top of which, the prints feel like thick paper.   I’m still using inks from probably the first time DTF inks came on the market….

    BUT….. then I use the same film on the Epson F2100 and the colors come out amazingly bright and the white is 99% perfect. Prints are soft to the touch….so I’ve been using the F2100 for my sellable DTF printing.  
     

    So basically, ink quality can be easily identified and maintained, but the quality/grade of films will remain touch and go.

     

  6. Just out of curiosity….  

    1.     Are the USA made DTF inks of better quality than the inks imported from China?

    2.    Does any specific brand of ink works better in different Epson printer models?

    3.    Are all the PET Films on the market the same quality…..or does print quality on these films vary based on ink manufacturer,   film type/grade/quality and/or printer models.

    Just a few questions that floats by me now and then….

     

    RJ

     

  7. I’m having an issue with my Epson R3000 printer.

    My ink are set up as YWWMCWWK with MK slot containing cleaning solution.

    When printing however,  the K ink channel (PK slot) leaves a lot of ink streaks and blobs of black ink on the film.  I switched the black to the MK slot and set the driver to print using the MK channel which prints clean without issues,....but when I send a job to the printer from the RIP, it automatically switches back to the PK channel.

    Is there a way to fix this?

  8. 1 hour ago, Andy - Admin said:

    Flush it with distilled water. It's a gallon for less than $1

    I realized that’s what they did with the ink config....

    I’m gonna have to do that.  It’s really more the hassle than the money.  I do keep an extra set of cartridges around so I’ll have to dig em out again.

    I was really hoping they would add that config option to the software and save me the trouble.....

  9. 6 hours ago, johnson4 said:

    That sucks, sorry if I got your hopes up, it’s just what mine said. That really should have been something that was available from the get-go. 
     

    flushing and changing colors can be a PITA on a printer with an ink system, and the dedication to the software just to test print. 

    That’s ok.  I just hope the add that profile option to the software.  It’s odd that they didn’t use YMCKWWWW as one of their profiles. In researching before I converted my printer, it was one of the more popular setup for the R3000.

    I really don’t want to spend more money to flush and reconfigure this printer.

  10. 1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

    I was wrong in the order they have as options. It’s:

    WWWWKCMY

    or

    YMCKWWWW

     

    i don’t recommend the higher resolution profiles, it changes the colors a bit, takes longer, and doesn’t do much in terms of quality

    Thank you,

    I did find it earlier and was messing with it a bit.  With my printer however (R3000), the config they have are YWWMNWWK,  KCMYWWWW,  &.  WWWKCMY.   I’m still getting mixed colors because my config is YMCKWWWW. 😕

  11. On 4/5/2021 at 4:11 AM, johnson4 said:

    you can also go under settings and check “ enable advanced blah blah” and see more printer settings. So you can run YMCKWWWW or WWWWYMCK. I had to tune down the black density about 25 percent down to 75 percent max. the white underbase to 25ish percent on a p400, stock was at 80. 

    Are you able to change ink configurations on the P400 and P600?

  12. 1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

    the colors are amazing, and that’s the main thing that has me focusing on it. I’ve never had streaking, lines ,etc in EKprint but the colors just don’t pop like they do on this program. 

    Yes....the colors are amazing.  I could never get those colors with other rips. I was wondering if I got a bad batch of inks or film. Also, I would either get too much white ink or a lot of streaking lines.

  13. Yeh...that’s a huge difference.

     

    when I printed with the R3000, all the colors were mixed.... but the “underbase” printed in CYAN and there was very little ink on the sheet even though there was full coverage over the colors.  With all the other rips I’ve tried, there was just too much ink and streak lines in some of the prints.

    Another thing I notices was the colors are much brighter than with other rips.

    im currently watching the video of the CADlink DTF Webinar, and there are some really interesting features for DTF printers in this software.

     

  14. 1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

    They are, for me, using the p400, it’s a non issue. Stock settings it flooded my film. Almost like it’s setup for DTG. 
     

    the guy said they are working on an update to change that. Still, a small price to pay for the features. 

    I didn’t have any flooding at all with the installed settings.  I was kinda surprised since every other RIPs I’ve tried flooded the sheet with ink.  I even got a REALLY good print with white “underbase” turned off and tested on a white shirt, you could barely feel the print on the shirt.  
     

    I do hope that update comes soon.  That would be great for a lot of people.

  15. I’m using the trial myself and yes, it IS really easy to use.  It is the first RIP I’ve tried for DTF that actually printed without flooding too much ink on the sheet or lines in the print. 
    The only issue I’m having so far is... I’m using an Epson R3000 and the ink channels are hard coded to using the light colors for white inks and my printer is configured for YMCK-WWWW.  It seems the P400 and the P600 are hard coded as well so I’m hoping they will update this issue soon.

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