kcinnick
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Posts posted by kcinnick
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Can the more experienced printers share their best practices for getting optimal DTF prints? Vibrant, accurate colors with the best hand possible?
I can't wait until I get to try the process myself and share my experience, but now I only have experience with other printing methods while I await my printer and supplies.
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On 2/26/2022 at 10:30 PM, johnson4 said:
Probably not, the ridges left would likely create a bad seal.
I was going to pull, measure and replicate the stock seals and remake them in solid rubber/foam type of material from a laser cutter. Maybe a little taller, so it is firmly sealed. I forget what it’s called exactly. This will stop the leaking , in theory.
I found out the hard way you can’t use water washable UV resin with this ink- lol. Even when it’s cured. So I’ll re attempt my damper adapter with standard UV resin. If it works, I don’t see why I couldn’t make a cartridge.
I have seen your posts from when you said DTF didn't have a nice of hand as screen or DTG but now you seem to think DTF can be as good. While I am waiting on supplies can you give us some tips on how to get a soft hand?
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Ok, maybe I'll grab a 15000.
I was looking at stirrers for the white ink tanks on the 8550. I'd prefer cartridges for what I want to do, I'll can just swap the white with a cleaner cartridge when I am not using it. Honestly I was only leaning towards the 8550 because it is AVAILABLE. I didn't realize it was slow, I just assumed it was up to speed with the other current printers out there.
I wonder if I could print some TPU seals for the 15000... I hope a p400 falls in my lap at a good price.
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1 hour ago, johnson4 said:
You’ll quickly realize the drawbacks with it, once you rely on it. Especially with a Ciss system and aftermarket carts, unless they have fixed them.
4 hours ago, anum11 said:I liked xp-15000 so far, i just plugged a ciss system if it works well, there will be no drawbacks with it.
I was leaning towards the cheap option of the XP-15000 because the availability of the printers I want to use, the P400, P800 are just non existent. After joining some FB groups and seeing how many people have issues with this printer I am steering clear. It seems all of the issues result in DEAD printers, not a repair, not some tinkering, just a straight up dead printer.
I am leaning towards the ET 8550 right now, hoping one pops up in the refurb shop at Epson while I figure out this oven curing deal. Nobody on Alixpress has a 13X19 oven, or even a 13" wide oven... the US versions are $600+ so I am trying to research my curing options. I might just try the heatpress cure method to start with if I find a suitable printer. I am fairly certain an oven can be made, either from a heat press or just a heat pad or heat lamps and a suitable enclosure.
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Wow, there is very little information out there about DIY ovens or even a mid range commercial 13X19 oven. What are you using? Did you build it?
I am looking at a bunch of options, I just want to know what has worked, what hasn't worked.
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2 hours ago, johnson4 said:
The 805 and 8550 both have those major drawbacks. The 15000 is the last thing, which does have the issue of leaky carts sometmes.
Thanks, looks like I am going to have a draw back somewhere.
Anyway, I am looking at ovens while I wait for a printer, any recommendations where to start. I just assumed convection would be best but it looks like most commercial units only heat from the top or bottom. I searched, but I didn't see much pop up.
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I have been looking at just about any printer with Software support and it looks like the L805, ET8550 and XP 15000 are just about the only ones available under $1k... I am still looking, but it looks like the 805 and 15000 tank systems may be a drawback for what I want to do, or will head cleanings be enough to purge the lines between prints if I am idle for a bit.
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2 hours ago, johnson4 said:
It's not. But, the P700 isn't going to be good eaither if it's anything like the p600. I'd go for the P900. ( All opinion, I have no idea)
I thought the p700 and P900 were basically the same except for the size? When you jump to a P900 then the P5000 starts looking reasonable... hopefully a used P400 will fall in my lap
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I am tempted to buy a P700 and sit on it until it is supported. Looking for a P400... is not fun.
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Ok, I took some time to think about things and I still want to do this.
One of the reasons is I read that the Hand is better than anything (well except sublimation which has NONE), and I really think good hand makes the shirt. I use to print shirts for my old business, and we paid for the entire set up, shirts and supplies in 1 weekend. I also printed stuff for local clubs I was in, basically getting a better shirt, full color for the price of the cheapest cotton T and one color printing.
I don't mind spending more on a printer if that will make my experience better. I am going to dig into this next. Also, the XP15000 is $250 refurbished and from my experience Epson just sends you a replacement printer if you have the slightest issue with a refurb. So I kind of wish they still made the P400 as that seems to be the popular pick, but I will look around.
The biggest expense is a good press, and I have that.
If I need to print every day or every other day I will just print and cure the glue and not press the image. This is in my room with my 3d printers so I am in there a lot anyway.
I am going to grab a tube rocker from the lab, can I not just take the sponge out of the white ink cart and set it on the rocker on a timer to keep the ink mixed?
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11 hours ago, johnson4 said:
Cheaping out on everything- is just asking for failure.
for $2,000-$3,000 you could have a decent setup.
for $1,000, you could have a decent hand processed setup.
Good luck!
I don't necessarily want to cheap out, I just don't want to spend more than I need to for a non commercial set up. I would love to know what you recommend in with that $1000 setup. Also, would it make more sense to buy a pricier printer that is supported by Acrorip to save on the software side. I also see EKprint is full featured as a unlimited demo with a watermark, for personal use that might be a way to go, there has to be a way to have the water mark print on a different layer and just never print that layer.
The value I like in having my own printing set up is to make what I want, when I want. T shirts for kids parties, school events, concerts, etc. is popular with the family.
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So I have had a dye sublimation set up for years and the lack of the ability to lay down white under the color has been a draw back. I don't print professionally so I really didn't keep up with the different technologies. I was going to do a pretty decent dye sublimation order and I discovered DTF and I have a few questions.
Is the XP 15000 good enough to use as a 13X9 printer for a hobby printer. I like that the carts can be swapped with cleaning carts and the printer put up "clean"
I see people say the shake their white ink daily, does the bottle in storage need that much attention? I can just throw the cartridge on a tube rocker on a timer... a bottle might be a little much for a tube rocker.
I have seen people curing the glue on their heat press just leaving it open, I have a 16X20 Geo knight press, is this method reliable to set the glue or should I get an oven for it?
I have gotten my Dye Sub supplies from Cobra for years, but I see people here referencing DTFsuperstore or direct from China. I have imported stuff from China, but I don't think I want to do this with DTF supplies, especially at the quantities I would use. Has anyone used Cobra?
For software, obviously I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars for a hobby, can Gutenrip do everything I need? Is there another free/cheap option? I see references to old versions of Acrorip but I haven't seen anything cheaper than a few hundred bucks.
Soaking solution
in General Direct to Film Discussion
Posted
I know many use diluted windex with ammonia as their cleaning solution, at least one major seller of "cleaning fluid" was selling Uline branded window cleaner as their cleaning fluid. I haven't figured out what I am going to use yet but I have grabbed a few things... Windex with ammonia, ammonia and I always have 91% IPA on hand. I also have an RODI unit which will provide just as clean of water as distillation. I have seen simply distilled water suggested as a capping fluid. I need to pull the MSDS on some of these cleaning solutions, you know, to stay in compliance!