Surecolor P5000 DTF notes

[johnson4]

2 hours ago, ADH01 said:

I have aftermarket carts on the way...just impatient

 

Haha, yeah I know what you mean. I received the carts well before I ordered the printer. I hate waiting. 

Edited October 30, 2022 by johnson4

[tomo-jp]

I was born in Japan and live in Japan. I don't speak English Google is helping me. You have obtained the Adjustment Program that you have uploaded, but I need a password please help. Until recently I owned 3 P600s, plagued with headstrikes many times, in Japan used P600s are trading for $200. I bought a P5000 last week, so I'm going to do a lot of testing.

[johnson4]

30 minutes ago, tomo-jp said:

I was born in Japan and live in Japan. I don't speak English Google is helping me. You have obtained the Adjustment Program that you have uploaded, but I need a password please help. Until recently I owned 3 P600s, plagued with headstrikes many times, in Japan used P600s are trading for $200. I bought a P5000 last week, so I'm going to do a lot of testing.

P5000 has NO head strikes. 

 

I didn't realize it had a password. Let me fix that.

[tomo-jp]

2 hours ago, johnson4 said:

P5000 has NO head strikes. 

 

I didn't realize it had a password. Let me fix that.

We are waiting for carts and chips to arrive from China. Do you think ARC chips will be sold in the future?

 

Password was required to unzip the file.

Wait for you to fix it.

[johnson4]

11 hours ago, tomo-jp said:

We are waiting for carts and chips to arrive from China. Do you think ARC chips will be sold in the future?

 

Password was required to unzip the file.

Wait for you to fix it.

I have no idea, arc carts and resetter carts are hardly any different. What I’d be happy about is Chipless firmware. 
 

I haven’t made it to the computer yet but when I do I’ll update. 

[tomo-jp]

I want to know the password to unzip it. Do you remember?

[tomo-jp]

I have been running the P5000 for a month now. I clean the capping station and wipers daily, should I clean the heads like shoe polish?

[ALEX_BAVARIA]

Hi guys,
I`m Alex from Bavaria / Germany.
After converting (and hating) P600 and P700 to DTF ... now I am fighting with SC-P5000.
I have bought a used machine due to Johnson4 comments.
Generally a great printer and a great quality output.
BUT some issues has occurred now:
ERROR CODE 1433 - CALL EPSON SERVICE (Epson service told me the reason could be 1. firmware 2. sensor 3. capping station)
this message always appears after the **** automatic nozzle check happens - mostly before first printing.
IS THERE ANY CHANCE TO DEACTIVATE THIS AUTOMATIC TESTS ???
if I start the machine all is fine (but sometimes I got the error with two ink cartridges) and I am able to print a nozzle check ... it's nearly perfect.
BUT if the self-testings starts ERROR 1433 appears.
SO PLEASE: if there's any chance to deactivate some "epson-features" ... please let me know

thanks a lot and all the best
Alex
 

[johnson4]

1 hour ago, ALEX_BAVARIA said:

Hi guys,
I`m Alex from Bavaria / Germany.
After converting (and hating) P600 and P700 to DTF ... now I am fighting with SC-P5000.
I have bought a used machine due to Johnson4 comments.
Generally a great printer and a great quality output.
BUT some issues has occurred now:
ERROR CODE 1433 - CALL EPSON SERVICE (Epson service told me the reason could be 1. firmware 2. sensor 3. capping station)
this message always appears after the **** automatic nozzle check happens - mostly before first printing.
IS THERE ANY CHANCE TO DEACTIVATE THIS AUTOMATIC TESTS ???
if I start the machine all is fine (but sometimes I got the error with two ink cartridges) and I am able to print a nozzle check ... it's nearly perfect.
BUT if the self-testings starts ERROR 1433 appears.
SO PLEASE: if there's any chance to deactivate some "epson-features" ... please let me know

thanks a lot and all the best
Alex
 

You can disable auto nozzle checks, it’ll still do it after power cleans. Mine didn’t do this for months, the one with the Epson software installed started doing it more frequently as well as the cartridge error. 
 

I have never gotten an error code like that, even with bad auto checks. You will ALWAYS get bad auto checks with DTF ink. it just recommends to me replacing the white pad which I ignore. It’s expected, since it no longer has OEM inks. 

you just open/close the cartridge bay when it does that cartridge error. Don’t mess with the carts and don’t install the Epson software. 

as with any Epson you go through the motions until you figure it out. I can’t say I would have purchased a used machine for various reasons unless it was a super great deal. 
 

I ran three of them, one has died now, as I expected would happen. Each model I go through I have to learn it’s requirements, which usually ends up with a learning lesson at the expense of a machine around the 4-6 month mark. 
 

I will say this model Is resilient and through my mistakes with it, it was recovered 3 times easily over my own mistakes where any other model I have used has outright failed. Those TFP heads are bad-ass, as they should be. It’s the same head they use in there 20K+ DTG machines. 
 

with what I learned from The first failure, I was able to run the 2nd machine beyond that point and repair it before it destroyed it like the first machine. You can’t know what’s wrong or needs done differently until you see the point of failure, at least for me. 
 

a bit of advice, stick to ALL OEM on everything you replace on this machine. Period. Obviously except the cartridges. 
 

the alternative for me was a $10,000 machine from China with $2,000 heads so these are well Worth the cost to me. 

[orange]

I printed 500m of film in two months using the P5000 daily. I'm worried that the damper will clog up soon. Did johnson4 replace the damper? Should I have a DX6 damper?

[johnson4]

14 hours ago, orange said:

I printed 500m of film in two months using the P5000 daily. I'm worried that the damper will clog up soon. Did johnson4 replace the damper? Should I have a DX6 damper?

It’s not just the damper. Its the Whole system needs cleaned, including carts. 
 

every 2/3 months for problem free use. Every 4-6 months if you want to risk killing the head. 

[johnson4]

15 hours ago, orange said:

I printed 500m of film in two months using the P5000 daily. I'm worried that the damper will clog up soon. Did johnson4 replace the damper? Should I have a DX6 damper?

It’s time based more than anything, how well you maintain the ink/printer and how long it doesn’t sit. 500m-5,000m- doesn’t seem to matter. It’s just when the white ink starts to gunk up the ink system. 
 

you could also remove it entirely and go with a custom ink system. Me personally I’m testing three routes to see which is more consistent and cost effective. I’ll likely stick to oem and just flush it like I did my p600’s, given it’s similarity in the ink system. I’m also testing pressurizing the carts in the oem format. Pumps are on the way. 
 

be careful, this printer is very fragile yet robust. The strong cleanings can kill the head
 

[orange]

How can I tell if the damper filter is clogged or the head is clogged?
If the damper is clogged, I feel like cleaning the head won't fix it.
Do you know the initial symptoms when the damper is clogged?

[johnson4]

5 hours ago, orange said:

How can I tell if the damper filter is clogged or the head is clogged?
If the damper is clogged, I feel like cleaning the head won't fix it.
Do you know the initial symptoms when the damper is clogged?

It can be a variety of things. 
 

as the white ink in the lines ages, it deposits “sludge”. I call it sludge, but in reality it’s just the pigment dropping out. The thinner stuff moves along, while the heavier stuff slowly builds up over time. If the printer is constantly used, it will experience this less often. The more it sits, the quicker it occurs. 
 

this happens all throughout the ink system. The cartridges, the cartridge manifold, the ink lines, then the damper assembly. 
 

once this happens, generally the 2-3 month mark with low/moderate use, the damper will have “ sludge” building up inside the damper. 
 

this sludge is thick, so in the ink system it creates a “ suction” because it’s slowly getting narrower for the ink flow throughout the tubing for the “ free” ink flow of mixed ink. Aside from it getting “ narrower” the sludge itself starts thickening. 
 

think drinking tea from a straw. Now try drinking maple syrup from a straw. Like that- over time. 
 

while that’s happening, also consider the damper is a small circular reservoir of ink with a small hole in the BOTTOM for ink to flow into the head- also sucking from this ink line that is slowly turning to “ maple syrup”. 
 

the damper will ultimately fill with “sludge” which is sticky and creates a resistance in the ink flow further. The damper actuates, so the ink sludge will hinder that to some degree, as well as take up space that would normally be used for ink. 
 

now this hole the ink flows through in the damper is at the bottom, after 2-3 months this sludge buildup reaches this hole. 
 

so ultimately you end up sucking sludge ( not clogs) into the head. This will eventually surpass the ink systems pressure ability to push ink into the damper, and make the printhead work harder to “ suck” ink from the damper. 
 

this is where the permanent damage occurs. It strains the printhead and causes permanent damage or weakens the piezo nozzles. The ink also cools these nozzles as it flows, the sludge doesn’t cool them very well. 
 

this printer has multiple cleaning options. Some simply use the capping station to suck ink, some cleaning methods actually fire all the nozzles AND use the capping station. This is the next big killer. When the “sludge” is causing the problem and we use the method that fires the nozzles, it further damaged things. 
 

 

The end game here is to maintain the ink system BEFORE a problem occurs. Once it happens and you are fighting dropping channels or channels that work then immediately clog, it is likely too late. 
 

I tested aftermarket dampers and they DO NOT work and make the problem worse. Only oem Epson dampers seem to work well. 
 

if you replace the dampers in time  without flushing the ink system, you will NOT get 2-3 months again. The sludge already in the ink system makes its way to the new dampers creating the same issue within days. 
 

 

ultimately as I expected back in the day this is the machines weak point. It’s entirely possible to pressurize the ink system/carts with an outside air pump. It’s also possible to remove/bypass the oem ink system entirely. 
 

I have one dead machine that printed for about 6 months before suffering this fate. I am testing various methods to find the best way to bypass this. 
 

Test 1. I am adding an external pump with variable pressure from 0.5 PSI to 4 PSI. 
 

Test 1b. Replace the OEM pressure pump with an adjustable one to slightly increase pressure. 
 

Test 2. I will remove the oem ink system up until the damper splitter, cut the hoses and add splitters to connect my own line to use the original damper assy/hose with my own pressurized ink system with a WIMS. 
 

Test 3. Remove the oem system entirely and run entirely aftermarket pressurized ink system with a WIMS. 
 

The “sludge” needs to be prevented by design or maintained manually. Beyond that to help alleviate head failure pressurizing the ink system will also remove strain on the printhead. 
 

the OEM ink system is not designed for this use, so ultimately it is the problem. Not just the damper, cartridge, or any of the like. 
 

All dampers I used were all functional and not clogged at all. It’s the sludge sitting in the ink reservoir in the damper and within the entire ink system. 
 

I’ve dealt with this for years with conversions. Each printer is a bit different, but ultimately one must die for me to see where it fails to fix it for each model I use.  
 

fortunately this model has 10 channels so usually you can just load up new carts and use the 2 extra channels and put cleaner in the old channels to buy you time.  

 

don’t forget, with poor ink flow you create a suction. This will suck air into the head every clean, which ultimately fills the head with air also creating issues from that side. 
 

the ink flow is the lifeblood of the machine, mess with it , the whole thing can die as a side effect. 

 

 

Edited December 27, 2022 by johnson4

[johnson4]

To put it into perspective here is a photo:

 

The bottom black plungers ( one missing) is what creates the ink pressure. 
 

the white ink makes this valve “ stick”. The way it works is the “ air pump” actually sucks air pulling that flap “ open” and then a spring closes it when that pressure is removed. It sucks the ink from the center when it is pulled back with suction, and with the spring it pushes it in pushing the ink into the ink lines with pressure. 
 

the top, where you see the circles of ink is the reservoir, it also has a sprinted plunger to press in that. That is likely to prevent damage and to allow a larger margin of pressurized ink.
 

 

the problem is the white ink gums up the valve, and then the sludge in the lines make it require more pressure than the spring can provide to effectively pressurize the line. 
 

if you made the spring that closes it stronger, and the pump that pulls the vacuum stronger, it would likely fix the issue entirely. 
 

the key to maintaining this is to keep it clean before it gums up. Before the ink flow is reduced. Once you see issues with this, it immediately can damage your printhead. 
 

you can also bypass all this crap and run your own ink line to the head, leaving empty carts in place. Measure and maintain a consistent pressure instead of gravity fed and your golden. 
 

so the issue is a combination of things, which start with white ink, this ink assembly, the ink in the lines, which fill up the damper with sludge. After that, through all that, the head is what takes the beating and must bear all the shortcomings until it is also done. 

[orange]

I got a used P5000 as a spare. But it was violet mode, could it be possible to change the mode? don't have the courage to try

[johnson4]

5 hours ago, orange said:

I got a used P5000 as a spare. But it was violet mode, could it be possible to change the mode? don't have the courage to try

You can, it’s very easy to do. Literally a couple clicks and done .most rips support violet mode now though. 
 

im pretty sure you can also just write the NVRAM from another machine to it as another option. 

Edited January 13, 2023 by johnson4

[orange]

Did the latest ACRORIP support violet mode?
I'm using 10.3.
If possible, I would like to use two white channels, because having four spare channels is a relief.

[johnson4]

26 minutes ago, orange said:

Did the latest ACRORIP support violet mode?
I'm using 10.3.
If possible, I would like to use two white channels, because having four spare channels is a relief.

I’m not sure, I use Cadlink.

 

It is very nice to have 4 spare channels. If you go with ink two white, you’ll end up refilling the white often. 

[blitz091991]

Has anyone seen issues with printing on a 4900 in the rip software ?  Mine is crating lines around my image when printing 

[blitz091991]

Just now, blitz091991 said:

Has anyone seen issues with printing on a 4900 in the rip software ?  Mine is crating lines around my image when printing 

I’ve used acrorip 10.5.2 (Dtg pro rip version ) 

and I’ve tried a trail version of cadilink 

[johnson4]

3 hours ago, blitz091991 said:

I’ve used acrorip 10.5.2 (Dtg pro rip version ) 

and I’ve tried a trail version of cadilink 

I haven't experienced it, sorry.

[Vfreaks]

On 10.06.2022 at 20:10, johnson4 said:

Deneyimlerime göre, pahalı Epson kafaları arıza yapmaz, onları hatalardan kırarsınız. Cidden. Düşük kaliteli xp600 kafaları, bunları birkaç aydır sorunsuz kullanıyorum. Zaman gösterecek. İ3200'ün her 6 ayda bir değiştirilmesi gerektiği söyleniyor, yine alt uç bir Epson makinesi için çekilmiş bir kafa. Her Çin makinesi bu 1.100$'lık kafalardan en az İKİ adet alır. Onlar sadece 4 kanal başıdır. 
 

2016'dan beri satış sonrası "kullanım" için Epson yazıcıları kullanıyorum. Ne kadar bok kırdığımı, bildiklerimi uygulamalı olarak öğrenmeye ne kadar zaman ayırdığımı size anlatamam. Yaptığım her küçük şey, asla bir "tahmin" veya başka birinin fikrini körü körüne takip etmek değildir. Hiçbir zaman olmadı ve olmayacak. Yanlış anlıyorum, uygulamalı öğreniyorum ve kendimi düzeltiyorum. 
 

 

Bununla birlikte, bugüne kadar geçen günlerden geçtim:

 

4 Epson 1430'lar

2 Epson c88

10 p600

3 p400

8 p800

2 R2400

1 R1800

2 Çinli makine

muhtemelen unuttuğum diğer şeyler

tonlarca kartuş, parça, yazıcı kafası, başarısız fikir, ne demek istediğimi anladınız. Öğrenmek için bir şeyler kırarız, ben yaparım. 
2016'dan bu yana, SADECE 6-7 yıl olan satış sonrası yazıcıları kullanarak, bu süre içinde yalnızca Epson dönüşümlerinden 2 milyon brüt değerinde perakende fiyatlı ürün ürettiler. Onları ne kadar kullandığım hakkında sana başka nasıl fikir verebilirim bilmiyorum. Hayır, bu kar veya övünme değil. Onlarla sadece oynamadığımı anlamana yardımcı olmak için. 
 

 

HER ZAMAN bir kafa beni hayal kırıklığına uğrattı, yaptığım bir hata yüzündendi. Çoğunlukla masum, ne kadar kırılgan veya her yönün onları nasıl etkileyebileceği hakkında hiçbir fikrim yoktu ve modele/tasarıma göre değişiyordu. 

 

tek bir kafa vuruşu hiçbir şey yapamaz veya anında kafanızı tamamen öldürebilir. Kötü veya kalitesiz mürekkep kullanmak, filtresiz kartuş kullanmak, yazıcı modeline göre gerektiği gibi temizlememek ve bakımını yapmamak. Bir şırıngayla manuel olarak temizlemek gibi "geleneksel olmayan" yöntemleri denemek kafayı zayıflatacak veya öldürecektir. 5 PSI'ın üzerindeki herhangi bir şey ve şimdi çalışsa bile uzun sürmeyecek. Kötü sızdırmazlık kapatma istasyonları, kısmen tıkanmış kapatma istasyonları, amortisörler, yani sonsuz. 
 

Bunlardan herhangi biri yazıcı kafanızı mahvedebilir ve bunu gerçekten incelemezseniz ve DIY için zaman ve çaba harcamazsanız, durumunuzu tam olarak bilemezsiniz, bu nedenle muhtemelen ne olduğunu bilmeden aynı hatayı tekrar yaparsınız. başarısızlığa neden oldu.

 

benim için asla pes etmedim veya bir başarısızlığın neden meydana geldiğini "bilmiyorum". Her seferinde yaptığım ya da yapmadığım bir şey yüzünden oldu ve son 6-7 yılda hayatımın büyük bir bölümünü aldı. 
 

şu anda ana makinem olan iki yaşında çalışan bir p800'üm var. Haftada en az 2 rulo filmden geçer. Hala güçlü gidiyor. 
 

Ayrıca, film tutucudan düştüğünde kafa çarpması nedeniyle 2 günlük bir p800 baskı kafası arızası yaşadım. Yaklaşık 12 inçlik bir kafa vuruşuydu. Bir daha asla çalışmadım. 
 

ne kadar süre dayanacakları tamamen SİZİN elinizde. Bu Çinli yazıcılar alt uç kafalar kullanıyor, bu kötü değil ama kullanıyorlar. Epson, herkes gibi para kazanma peşinde. Bunlar genellikle üretimi durdurulan düşük-orta seviye yazıcılardan alınan Epson'lardır. Örneğin p5000, Epson'un DTG F2000/F2100 modeliyle aynı baskı kafasını kullanır. Tam olarak aynı. Bu makine aslında P5000'i temel alıyor. Bu kafa, Epson Direct'ten yaklaşık 1.300 dolar. p800 8 kanallı kafa doğrudan 900$ civarındadır. Yine de Çinli yazıcı için 1.100 dolara 4 kanallı bir kafa alabilirim (2-4 tanesini aldıklarını unutmayın). 
 

 

günün sonunda elmayı muzla karşılaştırmaya çalışıyor. Çinli makineler, kullandıkları düşük baskı kafası kalitesinden çok daha fazlasını sunuyor. Epson çok daha azını sunar, ancak daha yüksek kaliteli baskılar ve daha iyi kafalar sunar. Kolay seri üretim mi yoksa biraz çabayla elde edebileceğiniz en iyi kaliteyi mi istediğinize bağlı olarak 50/50'lik bir ayrım.  
 

Yapabileceğiniz en kötü şey, tamamen yabancı birinden ne yapmanız gerektiği konusunda tavsiye istemektir. Muhtemelen çok az deneyime veya yatırım zamanına sahipler ve size ne ilettiklerini basitçe “öğrendiler”, bu da sonunda ikinizi de aynı gemiye koyuyor. 
 

Defalarca basit bir düzeltmenin tam bir felakete dönüştüğünü görüyorum çünkü yapılacak şey baskı kafasıyla uğraşmak. Bunun yaptığım son şey olduğunu öğrendim, yazıcı kafası arızası benim deneyimime göre her zaman başka bir şey başarısız olduğu veya ters gittiği için bir "son etki"dir. 
 

arabanızdaki tekerlek yatağınızın arızalanması gibi, bu şekilde sürmeye devam edin ve yeni bir rotora, kaliper ve balatalara ihtiyacınız olacak ve fren sürtünmesine neden olan yanlara doğru hafif sarkmadan aşırı ısınmış sıvıyı akıtacaksınız. 
 

bu senaryoda, kötü tekerlek yatağı sizin başarısızlık noktanızdır, ancak diğer her şey, bilmediğiniz veya umursamadığınız için bunun bir sonucu olarak başarısız olur. Bu bir zincir, kopan bir halka tümünün başarısız olmasına neden oldu. 

Can you write the daily and monthly maintenance you do for P800? After a 3-month epson l1800 adventure ended badly, I want to try our luck with a p800. The information you will give me is very important because I don't want to make a mistake. Thank you in advance.

[johnson4]

4 hours ago, Vfreaks said:

Can you write the daily and monthly maintenance you do for P800? After a 3-month epson l1800 adventure ended badly, I want to try our luck with a p800. The information you will give me is very important because I don't want to make a mistake. Thank you in advance.

Most Epson’s ( mainly the printhead) seem to fail around 2-3 months when starting out. Usually due to the ink. 
 

its until you learn how to keep the ink mixed, dampers changed/cleaned before there is a problem, and keeping the cap station in good shape. 

the main Thing is ink, ink system(dampers), head strikes. 

get that down on any printer and it’ll last seemingly forever. 
 

I have a machine running the original printhead, it has printed over 17,000 linear foot (50+ rolls) of transfers and still has 100% nozzles going strong for the last 12 months. That’s over a lot in transfers on a cheap conversion with a very small startup cost. 

Yes it has its down time, but I make it scheduled to keep things good before they go bad. This machine works 8 hours a day 5 days a week religiously. 
 

I can take this same machine, brand new, and it will fail in 2-3 months ( depending on its use) due to lack of experience or noticing symptoms before they are severe. Once they are severe( when most people notice it) , your going to be replacing something expensive usually. I know because I made this mistake several times. 

you basically want to replace/deep clean the dampers, waste pump, clean the face of the printhead and wiper religiously based on how you use it, BEFORE they fail or cause issues and do it the right way, not the cheap/easy way. It takes time to get it right and to learn the “pattern”. 
 

I am thrilled because I have been running a few machines that do over 100 sq ft an hour combined and haven’t had a single issue out of any of them after finding my pattern with a small investment. 
 

I’ve had new printheads on the shelf since their inception, which I haven’t had to use after that first failure last year, the one that i used/damaged to find my pattern with these machines.
It’s not a lost cause or wasted money, it’s experience that helps you move forward. 

It’s all about persistence and learning based on your experience, not necessarily following others advice, especially without knowing the basics first hand. 
 

you are either going to pay for the knowledge upfront from a supplier, or pay for it later with mistakes on the DIY route. Isn’t a way around that honestly. mistakes are inevitable and necessary to learn. 
 

my maintenance and scheduling will not be the same as yours, because it’s based on the machines environment and use. There isn’t really a blanket answer to this as it’s a variable.   

 

Edited May 13, 2023 by johnson4

[Vfreaks]

46 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

Çoğu Epson (esas olarak yazıcı kafası), başlangıçta yaklaşık 2-3 ay başarısız oluyor gibi görünüyor. Genellikle mürekkep nedeniyle. 
 

mürekkebi nasıl karıştıracağınızı, amortisörleri bir sorun olmadan önce değiştirmeyi/temizlemeyi ve kapak istasyonunu iyi durumda tutmayı öğrenene kadar. 

ana şey mürekkep, mürekkep sistemi(amortisörler), kafa vuruşları. 

bunu herhangi bir yazıcıya yazın ve görünüşe göre sonsuza kadar sürecek. 
 

Orijinal yazıcı kafasını çalıştıran bir makinem var, 17.000'den fazla lineer fit (50'den fazla rulo) transfer yazdırdı ve son 12 ayda hala %100 püskürtme uçları güçlü durumda. Bu, çok küçük bir başlangıç maliyetiyle ucuz bir dönüşümde transferlerde çok fazla. 

Evet, kapalı kalma süresi var, ancak işleri kötüye gitmeden önce iyi tutmak için planladım. Bu makine haftada 5 gün 8 saat dini olarak çalışmaktadır. 
 

Aynı makineyi sıfır olarak alabilirim ve deneyim eksikliğinden veya semptomları şiddetli olmadan fark etmekten dolayı 2-3 ay içinde (kullanımına bağlı olarak) arızalanır. Şiddetli olduklarında (çoğu insan bunu fark ettiğinde), genellikle pahalı bir şeyi değiştireceksiniz. Biliyorum çünkü bu hatayı birkaç kez yaptım. 

Temel olarak damperleri, atık pompasını değiştirmek/derinlemesine temizlemek, nasıl kullandığınıza bağlı olarak yazıcı kafasının ve sileceğin yüzeyini temizlemek, arızalanmadan veya sorunlara yol açmadan ÖNCE ve bunu ucuz/kolay yoldan değil, doğru şekilde yapmak istiyorsunuz. Bunu doğru yapmak ve “kalıp” öğrenmek zaman alır. 
 

Küçük bir yatırımla modelimi bulduktan sonra, saatte 100 metrekareden fazla çalışan birkaç makine çalıştırdığım ve hiçbirinde tek bir sorun yaşamadığım için çok heyecanlıyım. 
 

Geçen yılki ilk arızadan sonra kullanmak zorunda kalmadığım, bu makinelerle kalıbımı bulmak için kullandığım/hasar verdiğim yeni baskı kafaları rafımda ilk ortaya çıktıklarından beri var.
Kaybedilen bir dava veya boşa harcanan para değil, ilerlemenize yardımcı olan deneyimdir. 

Her şey, özellikle temel bilgileri ilk elden bilmeden, başkalarının tavsiyelerine uymak zorunda kalmadan, deneyiminize dayalı olarak sebat ve öğrenme ile ilgilidir. 
 

ya bir tedarikçiden alacağınız bilgi için peşin ödeme yapacaksınız ya da Kendin Yap rotasındaki hatalarla bunun bedelini daha sonra ödeyeceksiniz. Dürüst olmak gerekirse bunun bir yolu yok. hatalar kaçınılmazdır ve öğrenilmesi gerekir. 
 

bakım ve programlamam sizinkiyle aynı olmayacak çünkü bu, makinenin ortamına ve kullanımına bağlı. Bir değişken olduğu için buna gerçekten kapsamlı bir cevap yok.   

 

Thank you bro. I'll be honest with you. I moved to Germany and just got married. With great hope, my l1800 device, which i bought with a great hope, printed very well at first. I also turned this into an opportunity and stocked 300 dtf prints. However, i had a great misfortune. Because the white paint i used was defective. After 2 or 3 washes, i realized that the print on the T-shirt was cracked. This problem was most likely the paint i used. Anyway. This process i went through took 3 months in total and my loss is 2 thousand euros. This is equivalent to 1 month's salary. But I don't want to give up. Nowadays i want to buy a dtf printer that won't let me down. And i have to say that i only have one shot at it. I have to make a very good decision, so i am open to any advice you can give me.
 
As a result; I'll stock up on prints every day with my dtf printer. I'll change the dampers of the printer every 2 months. Other than that, do you think there's anything else i can do?

And I have an extra favor to ask you. Can you tell me the brand of paint and powder you use?