johnson4

4 minutes ago, ycramie13 said:

I put the wires where they belonged. L and the N wires were disconnected and a blue wire that went to Ground

Odd for all three of the power wires to be disconnected.

Sounds like he probably didn't flush the ink out of the system either, So that will more than likely need to be replaced, along with the printhead if DTG was used and left in it.

Have you by chance checked the fuses, or know what happened before it quit working?

3 minutes ago, ycramie13 said:

no they are not connected to anything. they go from the maid board to the connector on top as seen on the pic. Im a bit perplexed as to the reason behind the cables as the replacement does not have it.

I mean if they don't connect to anything, Then I'd ignore it personally. But that is just an opinion, I have no experience with those printers.

It was probably part of the process it making it the DTG printer that they used, or sold different versions with different options. 

22 minutes ago, ycramie13 said:

Hello,im trying to replace the EPSON 1390 Main Board that came out of my cheap chinese UV printer. The replacements online does not have the 2 brown cables that are attached on the original part, as shown on the pic. Does anyone have an idea as to what they do and if i need to do the same thing to the new board

Does that plug into something, or is it just a connector block and they aren't connected to anything?

46 minutes ago, Jhumet said:

OK so if it's not DTG ink and it's not Plastisol what is it?

From The information I've read on the internet, Both. Though the DTG use would be for cotton only it said. 

I doubt they would tell people exactly what it is, in fear of it being reproduced.

1 minute ago, Andy - Admin said:

Yes. 

I see it now listed in the Store. Sorry. 

Can't wait to receive mine, Do you know when you will have more ink?

2 minutes ago, Andy - Admin said:

I think I was getting overspray from the head being too far away

makes total sense, are you going to be offering the DTF p600 printers for sale?

Looks great. how did you prevent the Powder buildup on the film like last time? Any recommendations on how to clean the bottom of the printhead?

8 hours ago, mikeeman2000 said:

This is my thought exactly.

Agreed, So what happens when you use regular DTG ink? By the way i Absolutely love how honest you are being about it, Shocking to me since almost anyone selling the stuff will say what they need, to get you to buy. Definitely gives me more piece of mind of any future products you may carry. 

1 hour ago, uhim said:

I have a question; The film is sold for one dollar for A3 format, I could not find it cheap. Is the film reusable? or can it only be used once?

 

From what I would assume, it has a coating that will peel off with the print.  

It's really odd how similar that film looks to the Film that I have from other types of transfers. I wonder if the "magic" really is in the ink... 

15 minutes ago, Andy - Admin said:

Not great. This one ended up having some banding in the black (shouldn't have printed black on a black shirt, my mess up)  and I didn't wipe the powder off enough.

 I'm printing in the shop not the offices so temperature in the room was around 85 and low humidity so that could be the issue. 

Just like DTG I can see there is a bit of a learning curve. I think once I have final Kothari settings environments all saved it won't be as hard for the next person.

I have the same supplier as Hobby Print that has thoroughly tested this stuff for months so I know it's me not the supplies at this point.

 

Still looks really good, that's what happened to me as well when the powder wasn't fully removed from the sheet ( I'm comparing this to actual plastisol transfers). 

Other than that, which is a pretty easy to do thing, it looks really good. The small details are outstanding. 

When your removing the powder, do you "flick" the film? It helped me anyway when I did that. 

57 minutes ago, Andy - Admin said:

I just put the powder in a tupperware container and shake it on then run it through a screen print dryer.

How did that turn out on the garment? 

I do appreciate Andy's honesty about the product though. Most products in this category the manufacturer lies about it and its a " do all magic product". When a issue occurs, it's " your not doing it right".

I as well don't think it would be at all worth it to use it for a DTG replacement, but it could potentially be an easy add-on . 

For things like tags, hats, and other various things, I'm sure it will work great, since the product made it this far. 

I'm willing to run a new/unused P800 with the inkset to see how well it works which is saying quite a bit coming from me. 

2 hours ago, mikeeman2000 said:

Isn't the process super tedious? Don't you have to use an oven and heat the transfer after the powder has been applied? Seems like it would take way longer than DTG and the feel is different. 

The way I imagine it, Your printing it, Throw some powder on it from a larger Tupperware container, Eaither a " lid and shake" method or just have a small container to pour it on. Flick off the excess, and hit it with a heat gun for 15 seconds. When I did this with regular DTG ink, it dried the ink well enough. I have no idea yet what this ink will do, But I plan on finding the quickest most efficient method possible to see if I can justify it's use. 

At least, that's how it worked for me with screen-printing. After that, the glue melts when heated onto the substrate and that's that. I was able to print(Screen-Print), powder, and cure a transfer in around 30 seconds by hand with plastisol ink, so the idea isn't that much of a PITA. You could also use a flash dryer instead of a conveyor if you want to be cheap but not as cheap as a heat gun. 

I believe the process is to be an Add-on, not a comparison to DTG in general. At least, I see it that way. 

2 hours ago, anum11 said:

Is this a special powder, i am wondering if i can find this in my country on stores. Also for paper what is its name.

 

I am not insterested in that on t shirts but it is logical for hat socks wood etc. I am wondering if this can replace need of a UV printer accually.

I've ordered some and will be testing it on just about anything and everything, as I always do when something new comes out. I will be posting my results once it I do, I can include wood as well. 

I don't have any of it yet, but It sounds a lot like Transfer powder for plastisol ink. The other day I did a test print on a inkjet transparency and the powder does stick to regular DTG ink, and transfer to the shirt, if the transparency had been designed to release the print ( and hold the ink better) it would have worked. I put some powdered pre-treatment on the film I used and it worked better, but not enough to conclude its similar, I don't think it is. It's basically a polymer (the plastisol polymer powder, its like plastic) that melts and mends to the surface, at least the plastisol version I have. The few things I've tested this powder on when doing plastisol transfers, it works on just about anything porous, not things like glass ( where UV would work). The price point, and the way it looks, I'd be willing to bet it's the same thing since they also call it plastisol ink. 

I'm starting to think the film/ink might use a different carrier, in which that they work together( film/ink) kind of like pre-treatment and DTG ink, But I'm not sure. If it were anything related to plastisol ink carrier wise, you wouldn't need to worry about it drying out in your heads as much. 

I feel most of us will probably use it for other methods other than a replacement for DTG, but rather an add-on. It is cheaper than I expected, so I'll do my best to involve it in my business. 

12 minutes ago, Andy - Admin said:

I'll sell you some sample size of the stuff if you want. Also, I have that demo dongle. Shoot me an email.   I've been using Kothari for the DTF because it has the option to print the color before the white. (so does EK). I can share what I have so far for the Kothari environment

Pricing is going to be:

$169 - Ink set  250ml each CMYK and 500ml White ( I could do smaller quantity)

$25 - per pound on the powder glue

$1.25 - per 12.5x18 sheet. (not precision cut)

That really isn't bad at all, I'll shoot over the email. It's like Christmas in October! haha.

37 minutes ago, Andy - Admin said:

I agree tag printing and also transfers to hats have my interest since traditionally I'd get those made with screen print transfers.

Absolutely, So I'll be keeping an eye out for the post when it's available, It would come in real handy in a few weeks when it breaks loose. 

13 hours ago, skwakk said:

besides changing the ink/cartridges..what other modifications do you need to do to a standard epson printer?  Can you feed the film as is? or do we have to modify so that its a flatbed feed like with dtg?

It's probably the same as any other film going through it, I know the P800 has an option to print thicker materials so it won't leave the pizza roller marks. More than likely, This is what you will have to remove, as well as find a way to get in there and clean the printhead/capping station. 

5 hours ago, anum11 said:

So its basically an upgrade to sublimation transfer.

The way I'm going to see it, at least so far, It's going to basically be a Printable Self Weeding vinyl ( I mean, not at all technically, but basically from a customer standpoint). If it sits on the fabric, it's going to have a hand, similar to plastisol, or vinyl I would imagine. I know I can make plastisol feel like water-based and almost non-existent, but not on the transfer side of things.

 being peeled from a Plastic sheet, like Andy said will probably leave it looking " glossy" or plastic like. 

I have used products that do the exact same thing but on a laser printer, which would crack. Being DTG ink, Its flexibility will probably provide good results. 

Personally, If it's not an arm and a leg per sheet, I'd try it out for sure. 

I don't think it will end up being better, or more cost efficient than DTG, or even screen-printing.

I don't think it will meet every customers expectations, especially those used to DTG or screen-printing.

For a standard tee though, I'm sure it would work great. If and when it becomes available, given it's price standpoint, I would be using it for custom tags if it worked out well. 

If it's the same Transfer powder they use with Plastisol transfers, it will yellow and crack with age/UV exposure, and it's possible for it to peel off if the shirt gets too hot. If you accidentally get any " leftover" powder on a white shirt, it will yellow the garment, it's best to "flick" several times to remove the excess powder.

With all that said though, I'll be one of the first to adopt it once it's available here, just so I know, and have experience with it. I can't knock it until I've tried it, So... I'm waiting.

9 hours ago, reptilesink said:

Yes they can be either version standard or flat bed.

You need to replace everything where the ink is thats before the head with uv specific parts to prevent any light curing the ink while in the system.

The easiest way is uv dampers and uv ink pipes connecting direct to the damper.

The printers shown aren't mine they belong to someone I was writing custom software for to control them.

Awesome, Thanks for the information.

It kind of looks like he probably has ink lines running to the head dampers off to the side to that manifold which is probably a quick disconnect of some sort. 

Do you know what is required to remove the ink pump on the P800 to prevent a code? 

My main thing is I HATE gravity fed systems, From the video it doesn't appear to be. 

I'll read back over your older posts, you have probably answered these questions 10X over. 

My memory is garbage, if I don't stay up on it constantly I'll completely forget something in as little as a few days, so I keep starting at square one with this UV conversion       "preparation" 

Anyway, Thanks again.

On 2/6/2019 at 10:18 AM, reptilesink said:

do you have a flatbed version and the paper fed version? Your LED/head Photo vs your video show both. If I find the time I'd like to try my hands at a paper fed version. Your ink system looks pretty serious, very good job on the build!! 

Have you previously shared what that system consists of for the ink system? That was my main caveat, the need to remove the oem ink system and not really knowing what to replace it with " properly". 

Anyway, not trying to bum your hard earned info, Just curious because that looks well thought out. 

7 hours ago, skwakk said:

so you can do transfers with regular dtg ink?  I screen print but never dabbled with transfers.  what is the powder they use and the specific transfer paper?

I'm not sure, If you printed on a release paper I don't see why not. You put the powder on while the ink is wet, so the powder only sticks to the design, shake the rest off and       " dry" the ink so the polymer sticks to the ink. After that, when you heat press it again, your melting the polymer and it mends with the fabric- creating a transfer. However, anytime this polymer gets heated, like in a dryer, it is possible for it to heat up to its melting point again and peel off, Unlike inks printed directly onto the fabric, which need its "carrier" or " plasticizer" to liquify it. The polymer is water-proof, it's literally like a plastic powder. 

I use the Plastisol release papers daily on my DTG prints, But only to cure them, not to transfer them since the DTG doesn't stick to it. I'd imagine if for DTG ink, since its more " watery" you would need the paper coated with something that will absorb it, unlike plastisol/ water based screen-printing ink. Once dry, That stuff that absorbs it needs to peel off the plastic with the design. That's how the laser transfers work too.

https://www.screenprinting.com/products/transfer-adhesion-powder-plastisol-transfer-adhesive-1-lb?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=dsa&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaDKyf_S6wIVBdbACh31uAugEAAYASAAEgL8MfD_BwE

12 hours ago, winnerinsanjaya said:

yepp, and what i know a benefit from this new method is. u can use in many fabrics.

Didn't really think of that, Usually though I always go for at least 50 percent cotton on anything I print on, DTG or not so while that is a good benefit, It wouldn't really help much in my business. 

50 minutes ago, winnerinsanjaya said:

the methods is DTF, digital transfer film. u can use dtg ink too.

It seems cool, I started out and still screen-print. I used to do transfers with the same powder, if it's the same polymer anyway. 

From the experience I have with it and customer feedback, it just doesn't compare to direct contact in terms of adhesion. ( plastisol transfers). Wash to wash, water based faded with the shirt fabric, usually creating a faded look as the shirt also fades(I love this). Plastisol ( directly printed) pretty much never deteriorates or changes but suffers a heavy hand and requires serious chemicals to clean. the transfers would all suffer peeling at some point, usually well before the water based shirt suffered any fading, even the one's I had purchased from other suppliers. Instead of the ink adhering itself to the fabric, now that polymer does the work, which, when heated peels off like any other heat transfer material. similar to just printing with a standard transfer. They have the self-weeding laser transfers for dark shirts, You run a clear ( like in the video) through a laser printer. Then apply a white backing sheet and heat press it and it only sticks to the parts with toner, which makes it self weeding. Then you have the stuff like Jet pro opaque, where you just print it in a regular inkjet ( pigment) and cut it out and press it on the shirt, In which I have experienced them all. Not to mention the ( probably high) extra cost for these papers/transfers.

I just don't see the added benefit of it, unless you were to sell designs to people, even then the quality of all of the above methods were very poor in comparison to Direct ink to fabric contact( like any form of screen-printing directly to the fabric, as well as DTG, since it's the same principle) from my experience.

Plastisol is used for many things, pretty much anything you grab with a soft rubber coating, is plastisol. Like fishing lures, the chains on my kids swingset, etc.

Plastisol is just that though, a plasticizer that keeps the ink " wet" or "melted" until it is evaporated away. The stuff likes to stick together, which is why every-time you need to use it, you have to mix it well due to separation, and coagulation. 

 If it was ever diluted enough to run through a printer, in any form, It wouldn't come close to comparing the water-based inks, Even then, I would imagine it would be much harder to ventilate, clean up and maintain. Viscosity is everything when it comes to printing. So I would agree that this is some sort of marketing " scheme" 

So, for me, Waterbased printing, usually lasts as long as the the shirt if it's printed correctly, it Fades and wears with it until the shirt turns into a rag. alongside the easy clean-up, and soft/no hand feel, I doubt anything will top that but surely it's possible.

My " gut feeling" of this product, tells me it's just someone trying to swoop in and make a quick buck. Every product has it's place in the market for different materials and users of course.

The #1 thing that  these " quick money grabbers" do is make a new, better, (INSERT PRODUCT HERE) and it so happens to be unique, and proprietary. It basically works magic, Until you buy it, and try it for yourself. Then, Somehow, It's on YOU because your " inexperienced" and they push you to buy more proprietary products to help out when it doesn't work as planned.

Eventually, the product will disappear, or come out with a new " upgraded" version. 

Like, For example, Screen-printing foil. It works, But it's not for commercial/resell use in terms of quality or durability. HOWEVER, This stuff found it's way in the DTG market, as a new means for adding that " touch" of extra that your printer just can't do.  100,000 new users buy it to try it, find out it's not for them or to " hard to master" and then throw it in the trash. Boom, Just made a quick buck off of the same ol' product, with new marketing. 

Don't get me wrong, It would be fantastic for new and exciting idea's to come out. New methods, Better methods, even wild unimaginable methods, like DTG would have been in the 80's when those guys slaved away at a screen press. I would be all for it, with due caution. But the truth is, most of this stuff is just another way to get into one of the largest stable markets that won't be going away Irregardless of what happens in the world to grab some cash, and live the life many of us aspire for with our racing minds trying to find that " unique" or " new" way to top the competitor. 

I could be wrong though, these are only speculations based from my own experiences, But I won't be betting the farm on it anytime soon.