johnson4

I would also like to mention, dampers rarely go bad. They just get clogged, mainly the white, with the same “sludge” that makes its way into the printhead. If you have ever removed a damper and looked at the white blob inside that doesn’t move, that’s what I’m talking about. They can easily be back-flushed and  re-used, as it’s the white pigment causing the issues especially if you run pre filters on your ink lines. 
 

I’ve noticed the inkbank 5600 ink doesn’t do this so much/as quickly, compared to the inkbank 5603. Likely because of the viscosity and pigment load. Yeah, you use a little more 5600 for the same opaque white, but in the long run it’s like a $5 a bottle difference. 
 

the inkbank 5601 CMYK is thicker than the 5600 variant as well. I use the 5601 CMYK and 5600 white mainly. 

3 hours ago, Radicalfans said:

I have been having issues with my dtf printer

 

For quite some time now, my printer has been having problems printing white. I will run tons of cleans and nozzle checks, and the nozzle checks are always super erratic (the color ink is working just fine with perfect nozzle checks). There doesn't seem to be any consistency. Sometimes a clean will improve the nozzle check and sometimes it will cause the white ink to dropout all together. Even when I am able to get nozzle checks that are good enough to start printing, the white ink will drop out after about two inches and becomes extremely faded with significant banding. I have replaced the printhead and dampers. I have flushed the lines and cleaned out the ink tanks. Has anyone ever experienced this issue before?

Yes, I have experienced this. 

DTF printers require preventative maintenance as well as standard maintenance. You can't replace the dampers or flush the lines when it's too late. They must be done preventatively. 

Sounds like the white ink " sludge" or pigment filled the dampers over time, which then eventually got sucked into the printhead. If you replace/clean them on a schedule, you will be rewarded with 0 downtime/issues. After this happens you can replace the dampers, flush the lines, and do as many head cleans as you want. It won't work. You need to soak and gently backflush the printhead or replace it. The stuff that goes in there is like glue. If your old dampers had "white" stuff settled in one spot, that's what goes into the printhead. If this occurred before the filter, the filter would stop it as it has coagulated and beyond the jettable size, "soft clogging" the channels. Be aware, if you do excessive cleans you can permanently damage the printhead, busting a seal or overheating the piezo nozzles due to low/no flow. 

Been there, done that- ALOT. 

Ever since learning the above, I haven't had to replace a single printhead in almost 2 years. 

The problem most people will run into is the more the printer sits, the faster this occurs. It can happen is as little as a week, or as long as 6 months. It really depends on how you use/run your machine AND the ink you use.  Circulating the ink doesn't help, as it's inside the damper where this is happening. Simply shaking the damper every other day would prevent this, but that increases wear and tear and creates the potential to damage the printhead via liquid spill. 

There are a ton of variables that go into it, but if you watch and pay attention for the pattern, you can prevent this issue outright. 

On 5/7/2024 at 9:55 AM, Andi45 said:

I am new to DTF printing. I am going to order a DTF printer but first I was wondering what is the best computer to buy to run with the dTF printer?

It's going to depend on the RIP you choose. Almost all of them specify the recommended specs. 

Solid state drive at least 500GB, at least 12-18GB ram and at least an i3 Processor, preferably an i5. 

Personally I run (4) instances of Cadlink on one machine. It came out in 2012. I Just made sure to use an Solid state drive and 32GB of ram. it has an i7 processor. Overall it was like a $50 computer with about $100-$125 in upgrades. Works great. 

On 5/5/2024 at 6:28 AM, Heaven867693 said:

Can you please tell me if there is any software to rip and run cmykw+vanish in 1 print for l1800?

I haven’t seen any, unless its a flatbed machine. 

13 hours ago, Trinity Customs said:

I have 2 p400's that im selling. I'm located in Virginia, US. They are fully operational. They would need to be converted to DTF though. Let me know if you have any interest. 

I’ve been sitting on a new one since this post in 2020. It’s a crapshoot to sell them online unless you can get someone to pick them up and pay in cash. They aren’t worth as much as they were during the “dtf boom”. 

12 hours ago, Cserényi István said:

Hi all,

I’m trying to print round graphics and as the t-shirts shrinks a few percent after first wash, the print gets wavy of course. This wavy look remains when I wear it.  What do you do to get better results? Is it possible to get it better with dtf?

I have never encountered this, however I would suggest possibly using pre-shrunk garments or pre-wash them before application of the DTF transfer. 

32 minutes ago, tangkibot said:

 

 

Beautiful work, great job! 

22 hours ago, Kateyes49 said:

I know I may not be on the right forum.. but I do tshirts with DTF transfers… I like to bling them up with a few rhinestones.. I used E6000 to glue them on the DTF … when washed.. one set of stones came off… is it possible to do this or it just want work.. maybe another glue??? All comments appreciated!!

I personally don’t think any glue would work directly to the DTF, maybe modify your artwork to leave spots/holes to put the adhesive on the fabric so it appears to be on the DTF, but it’s actually attached to the shirt.  

On 3/8/2024 at 12:06 PM, Renee420 said:

I am looking to know your method for resetting ink levels on XP-15000.

chipless firmware does not keep ink levels full and sometimes I run our of white before the print job is done and it spits out the film (even if i reset before i start)

Pulling the reset tank while printing does not do anything

So wondering, how are you adapting? Installing a CISS is my next project however this won't fix this issue so I am hoping for some ideas

Thank you

Renee!

For me when I used this machine pulling the waste tank and putting it back in did the trick as it reset the ink counter with Chipless. You could try “ pausing” the print on the printer then do the waste tank thing, any form of “pause” by opening a lid or doing something that doesn’t trigger an eject. 

that’s a downfall to that machine having only 7ml ink Cartridges. Maybe the firmware is different now. I know there were different Chipless providers, one worked well and one didn’t for me back then. 
 

8 hours ago, Kdot57 said:

Well yeah. And there has been a few from folks like gimp and such but of course nothing in the dicriptions or manuals gets to the dyf or g. I'm a screen printer and just like it. Sounds like there is not much of a way around the software cost. Kinda bites. 

Yeah, to be honest out of everything, even using a cheap $200-$300 printer, the software ends up being the cheapest thing out of all of it. if you want anything useable quality, even then to run it longer than 4-6 weeks will require tons of time tinkering and breaking/replacing things. 
 

if you went with a cheap Chinese imported machine, they usually come with free ( albeit more difficult to use) software to run them. 
 

given that DTF has peaked and has been going downhill for a bit, finding an older model Chinese printer at a good price should be relatively easy. 
 

A word of warning though, just how you don’t want to leave ink in your screens, ( god, waterbased sucked in a low humidity shop) you don’t want to let the machine sit. 
 

letting the printer sit, even properly maintained for 24 hours unused is the same as leaving white waterbased screen-printing ink in your screen, (unloaded) in a dry environment for 5-10 minutes. 
 

Takes a minute to clear the screen, sometimes with a screen opener, but after some time it’s usually fine. Let it sit for a day, it’s screwed. 
 

well, a direct comparison is that 5-10 minute air dried screen is about the same as letting the printer sit for 12-24 hours unused. 

Letting the screen sit for 24 hours with waterbased ink in it, that’s like using the printer 2-3 times in a week letting it sit 24-48 hours at a time for less than 20-30 prints total. 
 

they need ran almost everyday, even then you have to replace several parts based on time intervals, if you miss the mark you also end up replacing the printhead, and potentially damaging the new printhead if you don’t “waste” those new parts/ink again to do to right. My machine, the printhead is $1,300. The “ consumable” parts are about $500 a year, if I get 1 print or 10,000 from it. When sitting, you either use the ink by making transfers, or throwing it down the drain on cleaning cycles. 
 

it seems so similar and simple, the second you add white ink into it, you just changed 100% how the machine works from its original design. 
 

i feel you, but if the software cost is a concern, it’s really going to get you.

Now, in my opinion for a lower volume user, like under 50 transfers a day- buy an old Epson DTG like the F2000/F2100. Use aftermarket carts with F3070 DTG ink or aftermarket ink. Make DTF by the sheet, the printer maintains itself and comes with free software. 
 

I picked up 3 used F2000’s last month for $1,500, they are a dime a dozen now and much easier and more reliable than a conversion, at around the same price used all said and done. Also Doubles up your usage because it’s a DTG machine as well. I often see them for around $1,000. 

15 hours ago, Kdot57 said:

I there an open source (free) software for DTF? Or maybe a plug in? I want to just want to open a file and print it out! I use Corel.

You need something to rasterize the white ink layer and register the new ink colors in the machine, as well as the hard and soft ink limits. 
 

printers come with all of that in the OEM driver, however, aftermarket use requires aftermarket software. 
 

5 hours ago, Andy - Admin said:

I sold DTF.com so it caused another shuffle of domain names. Sorry about that when I moved it to DTF.com I didn't foresee me ever letting that domain go.

No worries, the main reason I posted the update both times was in hopes if someone  searched in a search engine, it would maybe help them find it if they were looking for it. 
 

I usually end up finding my own posts sometimes when using google, figured maybe it would help with the domain change. 

On 10/24/2023 at 10:03 AM, anum11 said:

How do we access to downloads section. I could not find it.

I don’t see it either, hopefully a legacy version pops up, I still have several OpenDTG boards. 

On 10/22/2023 at 7:24 AM, johnson4 said:

OpenDTG’s new home Is now forums.dtf.com

Wait, now it’s called DIYDTF.com

23 hours ago, Szilard said:

i ordered the dampers from digiprint ( dx6 dampers ) maybe its not OEM epson, now i try to find somewhere the whole damper assembly unit to check maybe i will have luck

My machines only work with OEM dampers, anything else you can't get a good nozzle check. 

On 11/10/2023 at 6:09 PM, Szilard said:

We bought 3 months ago this printer everything went fine untill now , recently we changed the ink pump assy ( the whole capping station ) after that everything went fine again until i changed the dampers , my white wont want to print , the head is 100% not blocked because after ink charges the whites come back but after a half a3 sheet the white will be dosappear again , we changed back the old dampers but still same issue , the colors on nozzle check is 100% so i dont think its a capping station problem , but i dont know what can be the problem any ideas ?

Sounds like you changed the dampers too late and sucked white ink sludge into the printhead. It’s not easy to fully remove. It causes the exact issues you describe. 

OpenDTG’s new home Is now forums.dtf.com

On 10/14/2023 at 8:41 PM, Crystal said:

So i bought an already converted epson xp-15000 from someone. when I received it it was a hot mess! lets just say the ink was everywhere and the cartridges were broken. anyway he told me that it had the chipless firmware on it and when i do a test print the word firmware is on there. ok I have no idea about computers or printers so I am sorry. 

I am trying to get my now converted printer to print but I am running into so many issues. one issue do I have to buy a firmware or software to download onto my computer to work this printer? i did buy new cartridges that were chipless like he said to do. but idk what to do next I am stuck! also there is a black hose sticking out from the back of my printer that keeos leaking black ink everywhere. what is this for and should I remove it? i need so much help to et this going but I cant find anything onlone not even youtube. 

if someone coud help I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you

Given your explanation and your apparent skill level, it sounds like you need a supplier to walk you through all of it. Based on your explanation I would say you have a good 3 month learning curve ahead of you before you can really hit the golden spot. We all start somewhere, but you really need someone who can really explain things and help you through every step. In my journey, where you are, it took me about 6 months to a year before I was well versed in what I was doing, which will ultimately be 2-3 machines down the drain as well due to damage and user error. 

It's not really about common sense or basic skills, rather having an understanding of the general process internally and externally so you can later have the skills to problem solve yourself. These are not like any other breed of printers out there, though they do look the same at times. at the very least a basic knowledge on how the printer works and the software are a must. After that, the more you know the better off you will be. 

The Xp-15000 isn't the easiest to use either, especially if it were pre-converted and used. 

You need a RIP program to operate the printer and you need to understand the RIP software you use, most require you to set ink limits and all kinds of things manually. The black tube is likely your waste tank hose, which should have a bottle ( not a sealed bottle, it needs a vent hole in the lid at least) to catch the waste ink. It's something that was modified or added, this machine typically has a waste box inside you empty so that would be on the person who converted it. 

I wish you luck!

5 hours ago, BC Wilson said:

To add to this conversation, So I have a converted Epson xp 15000, been doing routine maintenance daily, but I was out of town for three days and my white ink channels have completely clogged! I tried the soak method, head cleanings, removing the print heads and cleaning, nothing worked! Is my print heads still savable or will I need to get new print heads? Also if I need new print heads where to get them from? 

The best way I found to do this for a machine like this is to install cleaner carts and do 2-3 cleanings then wet cap. The problem with wet capping this machine though is it will " wick" up the printhead into the electronics if overfilled. Ideally you would want to be able to "pinch" the waste line closed so it doesn't siphon out the ink and use a glycerin/water mixture in the capping station to create a good seal and keep moisture in the head. 

Another thing to consider, it's not just the air getting to the printhead, it's the white ink settling and the heavy pigment settling into the ink channels inside the printhead. I have seen it first hand on a disassembled printhead. 

Anytime you get to this point, it's best to have another option instead of relying on the printhead/machine. At this point it is anybody's guess if that printhead can come back to life. Sometimes they can, sometimes they can't. There are too many variables to consider. 

What I do in this situation is use a good cleaner that isn't too strong ( a good cleaner is key) and soak a paper towel folded up a few times. sit the printhead on this paper towel. Take another paper towel and do the same and put it on the top of the printhead covering the ink ports. It will " wick" the heavy pigment out of the printhead over time and unclog any nozzle plate clogs, sometimes it takes days and several paper towel changes. It lets gravity do the work though and prevents any issues from occurring from manually forcing it. I've recovered a few like this, anytime I get the chance I will reverse pull cleaner through a bit and keep doing this. In this situation you can't do that due to the printhead design. Anyway, do this inside of a sealed container for the best effect. 

It's been quite awhile since I used it, but I considered the xp15000 to be disposable due to it's design. Very well could be the cartridges or anything else at this point though, or a combination of that. They really don't like to sit, especially machines without a dedicated sealing station. 

3 hours ago, vandio said:

Have any of you done that?

Not worth it to me, won’t get updates or support. Constant virus triggers and random glitches. 
 

to test like a trial, sure. 

46 minutes ago, laci said:

Again me... now sometimes i got an error 1433 when i do cleaning ( is unit sensor error or is unit error ) but not all the times, so now i dont know my problem will be the dampers or the ink pump assy 

Running too many cleanings back to back will wear out the pump station. I have to replace mine about every 6 months or so. This is a symptom of that. 
 

again though, is also a very old machine so all Of these things will creep up on you.

On 10/4/2023 at 4:32 AM, Carlos4072 said:

Another interesting possibility. In a forum about Epson printers for photographers, I read that Epson suggested doing 9 print head cleaning in a row, for a similar vertical banding that other user reported to the Epson Support. Then, this makes sense for me. 

It’s weird because in the manual it says not to do this, could help I guess. 
 

the problem with this is your printhead has “one” cap that sucks from all nozzles at once. So you’ll end up just sucking extra ink from the flowing nozzles leaving the clogged nozzles. This works with standard ink sometimes because the clogs are at the surface with dye or pigment oem ink but aftermarket ink that gels when in contact with the pretreatment on the film? Not something I ever recovered from with this model. 
 

soaks and cleans, soaks and cleans. I think the first thing to check is the nozzle check instead of printing, it can permanently damage the head. 
 

knowing how the printhead is made and how it works inside can quickly debunk many “methods” people use to recover them. 
 

in my opinion this printhead is done, no matter what you do or how much time you spend in doing it, if this is the result of a head strike. 

When the ink gels, it’s not just at the surface, it gets inside the walls through the nozzle port usually. 

your best bet is soaking it for a few days with cleaner submerging the face into cleaner. Add a damp paper towel over the top/manifold ports so it doesn’t dry out, l used cleaner.

Everyday gently push cleaner into the printhead, like barely. This will slowly soften the gelled ink and gravity “pulls” the heavier solids downwards as it sits in the cleaner. After a few days try flushing it gently. Do this for about a week. If it doesn’t improve significantly then your cleaner sucks or the printhead is too far gone. 
 

I have recovered every single printhead from a P5000/p6000 using this method. I pretty much just alternate them now if/when something pops up using this method. Even ones with 100% clogs from me letting the machine run out of film resulting in some insane head-strikes that lasted several minutes.
 

However, cheaper heads like the xp600  and p600/p800, usually the membrane wall collapses before the clog comes out. 
 

good luck! 

On 10/4/2023 at 4:28 AM, Carlos4072 said:

Yes, the alignment took a lot of time, since I checked with detail the best alignment option in each prompt from the printer. The thing about print a box and measure with the digital caliper, I can try it for sure. And not, this print head is new, no head strikes until now. Thanks for the advice.

So this is the aftermath of a head strike then? Probably needs a new head. It’s why I stopped using the p800’s. Literally one head strike can do it in and it runs much closer than other models to the film. 

any manual flushing on the p800 printhead normally destroys it entirely. I went through many of them, at least 12 in my lifetime of using them. Maybe you can do better, but that printhead is not that robust. The ink gels inside the printhead when there is a head-strike. the pressure required to remove this gelled ink also destroys the printhead. 
 

if it is the printhead. I would consider it trashed. 

That model was a pain because of that. The "chipless" still counts down the ink level and each must be reset once they end. On top of that the cartridge only held about 14ML of ink, which is next to nothing. Especially for your white ink. I reset the 250ML carts about once a week for another model, so for that I would be looking at multiple times a day for the same color. For the white, probably 10 times a day- basically constantly. 

The real problem is when you have 6 ink levels, you can't reset them until they run out, you will have to constantly be resetting one of them. The way around this issue that I have found: 

if you very quickly pop in/out the waste tank( not like fully pulling it out, just like half inch out and back in real quick) it would reset the ink counter for me and keep printing. 

The chipless for this machine isn't " real" chipless. It makes it count down without replacing the ink chips or having them at all. It doesn't make it read full all of the time like most other models. You can thank epson for their continued advances in preventing their machines from being used for aftermarket purposes.