I've just gone through the process of converting a second hand Epson P600 for DTF and thought I'd document some of the steps I've taken, settings I use etc. - it may help someone else attempting the same Needless to say, there will be nuances and variations around your particular setup. The info below represents the outcome of trial and error, Googling and researching etc. (putting it all in one place - I wish I'd had this before I stated *grins*).
I'm using AcroRIP 9.0.3
Step 1 - Removing the Rollers
Don't be daunted by this, it really is very simple. A small flat blade screwdriver is all you need to pop these loose and slide them out. No printer disassembly is needed.
Step 2 - Adding the DTF Ink
Using refillable cartridges, I've installed in this order: YWWMCWWK - the final cartridge (MK) is filled with a mix of distilled water and a dash of printer cleaning fluid. In AcroRIP 9.0.3 I've set the printer as Stylus Photo R3000, selected the port the SC-P600 is connected to, and set the Ink Channels under 'Color Management' to match the installed sequence.
Step 3 - Waste Tank (optional)
While you can make your own, I snagged a ready to go one from Ebay for speed and convenience.
Step 4 - Output Tray
The purpose of the output tray is to support the film as it exits the printer. It needs to be positioned so that the top of your output tray is only 1-2mm lower than the top of the output rollers in the printer. If there's a drop, the film will bend as it exits; when it bends during feeding the film will catch the printhead or other parts of the printer and smear the ink.
I had some A2 foam board which I used for a makeshift output support. The board is 5mm thick. As you can see in the image, I made a couple of cutouts at the sides so that the tray slides neatly into the printer exit area. The back end of the support rests on the end of the fully extended output tray, and to keep the front (printer facing) edge in place I 3D printed a couple of supports. These are 70mm high and rest neatly on the open bottom front cover of the printer. At some point I'll do a neater version of this (it's a bit bigger than it needs to be), but it does the job.
Step 6 - AcroRIP 9.0.3 Settings
You'll need to play around with your own Ink Limit settings, and White Layer Generation etc. These are the settings I've used successfully.
And that's it... you may or may not find this useful
If you are having issued with film feeding, leave a stack of paper in the tray (I've got about 8mm of A4, in landscape, and the film feeds reliably). Another point is don't close the paper guides tightly against the film - leave a 5mm gap. You should have all the paper width check settings on the printer OFF.
Oh, one last thing - in terms of sprinkling the DTF powder on to the print, I'm now using one of these little shakers (medium size holes). It makes it quite quick and easy to get coverage on most of the print. What ingenious methods have you all come up with to recover the surplus powder once you've applied it?
I'm using the hover method of curing via my heat press - about 2 minutes at 170 degrees, hovvering about 1cm above the film.
When pressing the garment, 20 seconds at 170 degrees, medium pressure seems to do the trick nicely. I then re-press under silicon paper for another 10 seconds.