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My Epson 3800 UV printer conversion


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16 hours ago, anum11 said:

i just wanted to add an information. you would need uv catridges, ink channels, dampers and not a solvent dx5 head. as far as i learn, uv inks are acidic so apart from them being black for uv lights, their materials are diffirent too. Along with head itself, it should be teflon(don’t know if this is right word in english) dx5 head. so standart head doesn’t works aswell. Also you need a special cap as far as i know but not sure on this one. also you should supply watercooling for best solution and while at it you can put in an ink circulation system too. then again i heard cmyk clogs easier on uv inks so i am not sure if circulation system would be possible, nnot sure on this.

there is 1 question i would like to ask, where do you get power and control for uv light?

Some of your information is good, some of it is completely wrong.  I will try to hit a few highpoints.  The UV ink is not acidic, and even if it was most plastics dont care about acid.  Rather it is quite "aggressive" it contains plasticizers and other agents that make it very rapidly etch into the surface of many materials.  That is what allows it to attach itself firmly to many surfaces without a pretreatment, but it is of course something to deal with in the design phase since the materials that need to be in direct contact must be compatible  with it so that the parts are not destroyed.  You speak of teflon and although I have no personal experience with it  I have no doubt it will likely work. Personally I would not use teflon due to its very weak mechanical properties.    I can tell you for certain after my own experience and after seeking some technical help from my ink supplier that the following materials are suitable for direct contact with the inks.  Delrin(acetal) Aluminum, stainless steel, brass and for the tubing LDPE.  The stock Dx5 print head has been completely unaffected by the ink after well over a year.  Myn ink tanks are milled out of solid blocks of Delrin and they have had ink sitting in them for a long time with zero problems.

 I have been using the stock capping station with no problems as well.  I did have to replace the waste ink tank once as it was becoming quite 'Soft" from the ink and I did not want it to spill its guts all over the workbench again. 

For the UV light I used an adjustable constant current power supply so that I can carefully limit the voltage and current going to the LED.  I am also underdriving it by about 1/3 below stated output to hopefully conserve its lifespan since it wasn't cheap by any means.  For water cooling I am using a closed loop PC cooling fan/Pump/radiator connected with some clear vinyl tubing.  

CMYK Uv inks for all their troubles do have one wonderful property.  They do not quickly dry out, clog, or otherwise cause many circulation problems as long as you keep them out of the light.  I was told by my supplier that the ink will actually last longer when exposed to oxygen.

The white ink is a whole other story.  It is so full of suspended solids that it is extremely prone to settling, seperating, and clogging.  White ink is a major pain in the butt, but if you need it  you need it.  If you can live without it your life will surely be easier.  Good luck in your endeavours!!!

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  • 5 months later...
On 3/24/2018 at 11:14 PM, NebraskaTrevor said:

 

No instructions for the switch, I just looked at this very helpful video and went from there. It probably uses less than 5 bucks worth of parts. As for the paper width sensor problems I do always have the controller on first, in fact I must otherwise I get a different fault (1226) that I believe has something to do with the encoder signals as they relate to the controller. Once powered it works, but when powered down I get the fault without fail.

 

I have problem with error 1226. What is problem? I have Epson 3800

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If you are going to work on converting one of these printers the very first thing you should do is download the full factory service manual which can be found by using the Google machine.  I strongly suggest printing all 400 or so pages of it.  It will be worth it's weight in ink as you work thru your conversion....which is not simple by any means.  Sadly my printer has been sitting over 6 months unused I just haven't found the uses for it that I thought I would.  If I could recapture even half of the time and money I dank into it I surely would...but it was a fun project.

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  • 4 months later...

Hello, good morning, I am Rodolfo from argentina. I'm going to start adapting to UV flatbed, my old 3880 printer saved for six years. Your whole experience is very beneficial to me. In my country the costs of all the necessary products are double what they cost you. That's why I decided to modify my printer instead of buying an already modified printer. to get started...

I'm sorry I read that your printer has been standing for so long...

Best regards!!

La traducción fue gentileza de google :-)

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On 3/10/2020 at 7:01 PM, NebraskaTrevor said:

If you are going to work on converting one of these printers the very first thing you should do is download the full factory service manual which can be found by using the Google machine.  I strongly suggest printing all 400 or so pages of it.  It will be worth it's weight in ink as you work thru your conversion....which is not simple by any means.  Sadly my printer has been sitting over 6 months unused I just haven't found the uses for it that I thought I would.  If I could recapture even half of the time and money I dank into it I surely would...but it was a fun project.

I've started with this... Thank you

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  • 5 months later...

I have moved in a different direction and this has been sitting for over a year now likely completely clogging and or otherwise ruining itself   posting here just on the off chance that somebody else would want to buy it and make it a project of its own.  If not I will probably disassemble it for parts and to save bench space, a shame really but in the end I didn't have enough use for something that needs to be operated almost daily to keep it in tip top shape!  Send me a message here if you are interested, located in Lincoln Nebraska.

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On 4/22/2018 at 4:32 AM, NebraskaTrevor said:

Hopefully this is the first part of several that will solve my problems with the ink eating through the plastic parts! A couple changes are needed so I will need to make another but it at least plugs onto the dampers so that is a good start!

0421182053a.thumb.jpg.4be4c92b940ef256f45db8c266b126d5.jpg

0421181751.thumb.jpg.7fec6412b896b711c258c209f6e27626.jpg

Hello do u send me 3d model ? My mail is milosignjatov91@gmail.com tnx a lot

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21 hours ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

Sorry, this design is from several years ago, I have lost interest on the project and have no idea where the file may be, if I even have them.  As I recall it was not that difficult to draw though.  Good luck with your project.

No problem. Tnx

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  • 2 months later...
1 hour ago, Bullox said:

Do you still have the printer for sale?

I do, honestly it is probably going to get disassembled here at some point, but I guess I havent tripped over it enough times yet to make me mad enough. I am sure the ink system is well clogged by now, and who knows of the print head can be revived or not. It would be a good start for somebody, bit also A ton of work at the same time and a bit of risk as it may never work correctly again.

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22 minutes ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

I do, honestly it is probably going to get disassembled here at some point, but I guess I havent tripped over it enough times yet to make me mad enough. I am sure the ink system is well clogged by now, and who knows of the print head can be revived or not. It would be a good start for somebody, bit also A ton of work at the same time and a bit of risk as it may never work correctly again.

How much would you be looking for it?  I am sure it would be clogged but do you think the print head would be damaged? I definitely have wanted to get into UV printing and have considered converting a printer, but this could potentially be a good option. I don’t mind tinkering some, just hopefully could get something that works for me to print on plastic toys to sell. 

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It is possible, but it will need considerable work, and the printer itself may need completely replaced.  It also requires considerable software work arounds to get it working and it must be used frequently to remain in good condition.  Not for the faint of heart at all, she is a high maintenance girl for sure.  450 picked up in Lincoln, Nebraska, no option to ship. And I won't be aviliable for any tech support after, completely as is where is kind of deal.  Thanks for the interest.

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19 hours ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

It is possible, but it will need considerable work, and the printer itself may need completely replaced.  It also requires considerable software work arounds to get it working and it must be used frequently to remain in good condition.  Not for the faint of heart at all, she is a high maintenance girl for sure.  450 picked up in Lincoln, Nebraska, no option to ship. And I won't be aviliable for any tech support after, completely as is where is kind of deal.  Thanks for the interest.

Okay gotcha. Well unfortunately I’m one state over so that probably wouldn’t work. Thanks for the opportunity! I have enjoyed reading this thread with your journey with this machine.
 

I am wondering if maybe I should just pick up a cheaper desktop uv printer like from wayprinter? I believe they are a Chinese company but do you know anything about those type of printers? I believe wayprinter bases theirs off epson machines. I know with DTG printers people recommend just building your own over buying one from a company like that, but since it appears UV is much more complicated to make would you recommend buying a UV machine from that kind of company?

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15 minutes ago, Bullox said:

Okay gotcha. Well unfortunately I’m one state over so that probably wouldn’t work. Thanks for the opportunity! I have enjoyed reading this thread with your journey with this machine.
 

I am wondering if maybe I should just pick up a cheaper desktop uv printer like from wayprinter? I believe they are a Chinese company but do you know anything about those type of printers? I believe wayprinter bases theirs off epson machines. I know with DTG printers people recommend just building your own over buying one from a company like that, but since it appears UV is much more complicated to make would you recommend buying a UV machine from that kind of company?

I have one of the 2k a4 sized machines.  O would say save your money.  The white has never worked correctly.  It like all iv printers is a real maint intensive Machine.  They really need to be used every day or two to keep things moving.  Thanks for the interest and good luck.

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2 hours ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

I have one of the 2k a4 sized machines.  O would say save your money.  The white has never worked correctly.  It like all iv printers is a real maint intensive Machine.  They really need to be used every day or two to keep things moving.  Thanks for the interest and good luck.

Okay good to know. Would that just be an ink issue? Would different white inks potentially produce better results?  I wouldn’t mind using it often to keep it maintained. Are there any printers you’d recommend?

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8 minutes ago, Bullox said:

Okay good to know. Would that just be an ink issue? Would different white inks potentially produce better results?  I wouldn’t mind using it often to keep it maintained. Are there any printers you’d recommend?

He is basically saying they clog, very quickly. The white ink settles, very quickly. They are constantly needing work.  The ink can’t be exposed to light. Must be shaken and mixed, constantly. 
 

it’s very intensive work, and it’s expensive to maintain. The inks destroy certain plastics, and overall a printer designed around it would be better suited. 
 

I looked into for awhile, too much for too little return. 
 

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1 hour ago, johnson4 said:

He is basically saying they clog, very quickly. The white ink settles, very quickly. They are constantly needing work.  The ink can’t be exposed to light. Must be shaken and mixed, constantly. 
 

it’s very intensive work, and it’s expensive to maintain. The inks destroy certain plastics, and overall a printer designed around it would be better suited. 
 

I looked into for awhile, too much for too little return. 
 

All of that is true.  I really wanted one, and only need one about 10 days a year which is a bad combination.  Unless a person can justify one of the 30k or more machines and has enough work to keep it busy then it is a tough proposition.  If it didn't need to be used constantly it would be awesome.  It is akin to a living machine.  It needs constant tlc to keep it alive and kicking.

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16 hours ago, johnson4 said:

He is basically saying they clog, very quickly. The white ink settles, very quickly. They are constantly needing work.  The ink can’t be exposed to light. Must be shaken and mixed, constantly. 
 

it’s very intensive work, and it’s expensive to maintain. The inks destroy certain plastics, and overall a printer designed around it would be better suited. 
 

I looked into for awhile, too much for too little return. 
 

Okay that makes sense. So when you’re saying a printer designed around it would be better suited you are referring to an industrial printer?

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14 hours ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

All of that is true.  I really wanted one, and only need one about 10 days a year which is a bad combination.  Unless a person can justify one of the 30k or more machines and has enough work to keep it busy then it is a tough proposition.  If it didn't need to be used constantly it would be awesome.  It is akin to a living machine.  It needs constant tlc to keep it alive and kicking.

That is a tough predicament. I certainly am not to a level where I could get a 30k machine.  Although I would definitely use it more than 10 times a year. Mainly for a hobby and to sell some products.  For the clogging issue, I believe some scripts could be written to make the printer print every 24 or 48 hours if it hasn’t printed anything.  
 

Are there any suitable alternatives to UV printing?  I know there are image transfers but that can definitely be time consuming to do with larger quantities. 

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16 minutes ago, Bullox said:

That is a tough predicament. I certainly am not to a level where I could get a 30k machine.  Although I would definitely use it more than 10 times a year. Mainly for a hobby and to sell some products.  For the clogging issue, I believe some scripts could be written to make the printer print every 24 or 48 hours if it hasn’t printed anything.  
 

Are there any suitable alternatives to UV printing?  I know there are image transfers but that can definitely be time consuming to do with larger quantities. 

I have a small side business and used it initially to make some custom car parts that had graphics on them.  They looked amazing and all of my customers were happy but in the end it just did not prove to produce enough volume to keep the printer busy.  In my opinion, and it is only that, a person really needs a pretty good demand stream to keep a machine like this busy so that it continues to work well.  I wish I was in that position but I am not.  for printing on acrylic or polycarbonate there is nothing else like it, it looks amazing printed on the backside to create a "second surface" print that uses the gloss of the acrylic sheet like a lens.  The images look amazing.  I have a $4500 white toner laser printer that can print transfers and it comes close but it is not quite as vibrant.  It too is a whole other pain in the ass to deal with but the toner machine has one HUGE advantage.  I can leave it sit unplugged in a dark corner and then when I want to use it I plug it in it is happy to go and there are no issues with ink since it uses a dry toner.  I am not at all trying to dissuade you from seeking out a UV printer just know that the learning curve is steep.  the ink is way too stinky to ever have in a house (again my opinion) and the imported machines all seem to use cracked or bootleg software that wants to take some liberties with my computer that I am just not willing to allow (like having to boot up in  "safe mode") just to work with the stolen rip software.  I really wish I could justify a mimaki or roland printer that is a living machine that constantly circulates ink and cleans itself, even given the fact that doing so consumes ink that is $100 plus per liter.  A machine like that is really meant to work everytime you need it too.  Anything else seems to have a bunch of compromise although I am sure there are people out there who are using one of the imported 2-5k machines to make a profit with so I am not saying it cant be done.  I ended up spending about 1800 to build this machine including the 650 that I paid for a working epson donor machine along with about 100hours of work and I can tell you right now that if I could have back even half of the time and money I would rewind time and undo the whole wild Idea to build a UV printer in the first place

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7 minutes ago, NebraskaTrevor said:

I have a small side business and used it initially to make some custom car parts that had graphics on them.  They looked amazing and all of my customers were happy but in the end it just did not prove to produce enough volume to keep the printer busy.  In my opinion, and it is only that, a person really needs a pretty good demand stream to keep a machine like this busy so that it continues to work well.  I wish I was in that position but I am not.  for printing on acrylic or polycarbonate there is nothing else like it, it looks amazing printed on the backside to create a "second surface" print that uses the gloss of the acrylic sheet like a lens.  The images look amazing.  I have a $4500 white toner laser printer that can print transfers and it comes close but it is not quite as vibrant.  It too is a whole other pain in the ass to deal with but the toner machine has one HUGE advantage.  I can leave it sit unplugged in a dark corner and then when I want to use it I plug it in it is happy to go and there are no issues with ink since it uses a dry toner.  I am not at all trying to dissuade you from seeking out a UV printer just know that the learning curve is steep.  the ink is way too stinky to ever have in a house (again my opinion) and the imported machines all seem to use cracked or bootleg software that wants to take some liberties with my computer that I am just not willing to allow (like having to boot up in  "safe mode") just to work with the stolen rip software.  I really wish I could justify a mimaki or roland printer that is a living machine that constantly circulates ink and cleans itself, even given the fact that doing so consumes ink that is $100 plus per liter.  A machine like that is really meant to work everytime you need it too.  Anything else seems to have a bunch of compromise although I am sure there are people out there who are using one of the imported 2-5k machines to make a profit with so I am not saying it cant be done.  I ended up spending about 1800 to build this machine including the 650 that I paid for a working epson donor machine along with about 100hours of work and I can tell you right now that if I could have back even half of the time and money I would rewind time and undo the whole wild Idea to build a UV printer in the first place

That is all valuable information. So with the imported machines can you not use any other RIP software? That is a huge advantage with the laser printer. Do you mind me asking which kind you use? Do you happen to know the dpi it can print too?  Again, comparing between the two types of printing, ink printers produce better quality images.  Your experience with this has been very helpful in helping me decide how to approach printing. 

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3 hours ago, Bullox said:

That is all valuable information. So with the imported machines can you not use any other RIP software? That is a huge advantage with the laser printer. Do you mind me asking which kind you use? Do you happen to know the dpi it can print too?  Again, comparing between the two types of printing, ink printers produce better quality images.  Your experience with this has been very helpful in helping me decide how to approach printing. 

Sure you can use other rip spftware as long as it supports the base model that the printer was built around, and as long as it allows you to remap which color comes out of which set of nozzles on the printhead.  It is also important to find a rip that supports white ink if you are going to go that route.  Just know that to buy a legitimate copy of most rip softwares you are going to spend from 400 to 4000 or more.  There are less than legitimate versions out there but that is a personal decision you have to make.  I can say you should stay away from the ebay versions of software running for pennies on the dollar.  If is seems too good to be true it probably is

 

As for the laser printer I use a Uninet Icolor I550.  I do not recommend this printer at all.  It requires considerable work arounds and tricks just to get it to maybe print without jamming up.  I can make it work but it is super frustrating and way more involved than they would lead you to believe.  The claim is 1200x1200 but I question that quite honestly.  I think it is more like 600dpi even with very good source artwork.  The ability to print white is of course quite unique and there are times when it is the only thing in my arsenal that will do.   It is not cheap to run either the transfer sheets and other various media that you print on run from 50 cents to 2 bucks a sheet.  The white toner cartridge is about 500 bucks to replace and the colors are around 150 each.  If you are sensing a theme here it is true printing white via any method that I have not found is not cheap, easy, or straightforward.  Sometimes when a friend will see something that I have created, for example pink or yellow printed on top of a black substrate and they will say oh that is nice I guess.  Most people have no concept of the cost or complexities involved in reliability printing on anything other than white media.

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