TeedUp

And Senyang is another board choice.

I didn't see a thread specific to XP600 DTF, so rather than continue to burden the "what printers can be used for DTF" thread I thought I'd start one. My first question is that if given a choice between a Hosan or BYHX board (for A3, if it matters), which one is better? (and why?, if you know) Does Cadlink work better with one or the other?

Sounds like the P5000 hasn't dethroned your dual xp600's, or are you holding out hope for a white knight driver rescue?

Fume extractor not recommended for cost, air quality, or both? Or what level fume extractor is viable?

Is this a new problem you're having with this printer and your RIP? Or are you having problems from the start? Which RIP? How are the colors off, and is it not putting down enough white, or not any? Nozzle checks good, I presume?

I assume you're referring to the XP600's color saturation issue, but no matter. I very much appreciate the gracious gesture, but trust you and other general reports that the quality is good (satisfactory is our bar at this point of our economics). The relative price of printheads to burnout rate you point out makes a lot of sense in the overall scheme. You running fine on 110v converter is reassuring. XP600's have a convincing case. So you are running Cadlink and EKprint on the XP600s? Is that specific to the model you purchased, or do they work with similar clones? Which printer do you select at install?

Thank you Johnson4. Basically looking for an entry level commercial grade machine, 13" is fine for now. I was looking at Chinese dual i3200's but it sounds like the XP600's are good enough at a much better cost, especially printhead replacement? Key considerations are printhead life expectancy and reliability (if the price gap is not TOO wide). It does sound like XP600 life expectancy and color saturation are not as good as the i3200. Any thoughts on the i3200's? P5000's sound interesting (though I don't see vacuum in specs) although printhead cost is a deterrent. I'm looking forward to any review you do. Seems like most of the Chinese machines I've looked at are Maintop, is this any good? I really like my Cadlink alot, especially color, after trying Acrorip and EKprint. I also need 110V, if I get one for 220V do you know if I can safely use a step up converter? Also, any AliExpress or Alibaba sources you'd recommend as reliable? I've bought enough stuff from China where most is a good buy, but the crap can be a nightmare. Thanks much!

Why? I'm not happy with my multiple XP15000s (too many problems), and am looking at the ET8550 and L1800 because they apper to be the contenders in current generation (readily available machines, including parts). Also thinking about entry level commercial printers from domestic providers (but not sure worth the price of at least several desktop conversions while I'm still building my daily volume) or more price competitive direct Chinese imports (which scare me for all the known reasons). Also, I've been trying to find the printhead model numbers for these machines, and maybe I'm just not searching well, but not finding? I think I saw 8550 is PrecisionCore, assume other two are not as good? Printhead life expectancy with DTF is a primary concern between them, as well as maintenance issues.

Are you finding more inconsistencies from no name imports than from the larger domestic suppliers we recognize, or does the inconsistency seem universal, across the board to you, or are you not really buying from the larger domestic suppliers any more?

Well, I understand the sentiment, but I'm not looking to risk my own printheads in self experimentation (I did enough experimenting with my own head as a teenager many decades ago). It's a simple question if anyone does have the knowledge either as a chemist with DTF ink knowledge, or someone who has already done some experimentation, with good or bad results. Just looking to save a couple bucks on ink, or perhaps even save a printhead with the clog prevention of a tiny dilution of 6 mos old borderline ink. I consume all kinds of stuff past the expiration date with a little common sense, should DTF ink be different? And milk is much cheaper. A safe way to rejuvenate 6.5mos ink to prevent clogging a printhead would be valuable information to many, and maybe even a business opportunity to a chemist. johnson4, I have a lot of respect for all your informative posts but I'm surprised you're not somewhat curious about this. Maybe you consume all your ink under expiration. Actually, I think the harder question than whether a little distilled water or a few drops of flush solution mixed in the ink would hurt the printhead would be how it might affect the quality of the transfer?

So this may be a really stupid question, but wondering if anyone has actual knowledge about this, not just speculation or superstition. Is there anything that can be used to thin DTF ink? To simplify the question, let's say the scenario is white ink that is over 6 mos old and threatening to clog nozzles as it is slowly thickening in the bottle, but still currently usable. A tiny proportion of purified water? Has anyone tried anything either successfully or unsuccessfully, or know the facts?

Just want to add to my above comment that, while I'm not a chemist, and agree that air will also accelerate ink breakdown from bacterial growth, I kind of doubt that is a major factor in 6 mos purported shelf life when other similar type chemicals seem to have a much longer shelf life.

Of course, everyone knows not letting the ink, especially white, separate and settle is a key issue. But don't shake vigorously, you want to minimize air bubbles mixing in the ink as it will accelerate evaporation/coagulation. My ink from DTFsuperstore says to "gently roll the bottles" on the label. What I do is hold the bottle upright and move it in a motion that swirls the ink trying to minimize agitation while also minimizing the possibility of ink collecting (in small amounts) around the seal and inside cap What I do that I don't see others advocate is when the bottles get about halfway empty I switch the ink to a smaller container, again, to minimize it's ability to mix with air.

DTFSuperstore

So it was fine and the stain appeared after a month? Maybe some kind of mold? Was it in a moist or humid area?

While I'm not sure about your specific circumstance, AcroRip 10.3 has a known bug that affects XP 15000 paper feed. There is a 10.4 beta out now that addresses a fix.

So cleaning solution can be made by diluting flushing fluid (which would be odd because the cleaning solution is priced higher @ $30/900ml vs $30/L of flushing) and the capping fluid can be made from diluting either of the other 2 (although the capping solution is most expensive $15/250ml)?

Just starting out in DTF, stocking up on initial supplies. I'm more than happy to buy from Andy at DTFSupertore, but confused on how many different cleaning supplies I need listed there. Printhead Cleaning Solution Printer Flushing Fluid Capping Station Solution Clog Buster I expect the clog buster to be stronger, more concentrated, but how about the other 3? I've read in a Facebook forum (yeah, I know, just saying) that I can use the first 3 interchangeably. But are they just different strengths/dilutions of the same thing (e.g. can I dilute one to get another), or is it not that simple? Should I buy all 3? (and the clog buster "just in case")?

I'm just getting started in DTF so can't speak from personal experience, but I understand that the black adhesive powder is especially for problem situations like this white ink on red shirts.