anum11

11 hours ago, johnson4 said:

That’s awesome, that was my biggest issue with the 15000, I mean aside from the crappy aftermarket carts. 
 

it has been awhile now though since I’ve used one. 
 

i still have a new one here. I plan on trying acro 11 when it comes out. 

False alert, catridge counts goes down, but my ink and film was good so i was using too little ink. Now tried with full settings it goes down to empty around 120-150cm.

However yes, printhead moves up before printing starts, it waits before feeding paper and adjust it. I opened the setting in driver. On acrorip 10.3 setting does not work, so printhead strikes nomatter what. With this setting it barely does not touch the film at full ink settings. Any minor mistake it will strike the film again. However once it is adjusted on auto shaker, it wont strike at all with thick paper setting.

I use 720*720 resolution, so print speed and quality is also good.

Also my catridge levels never goes lower with chipless software btw.

Update issue was about acrorip 10.3, with it printhead was not moving up before printing. Therefore it was striking paper nomatter what.

19 hours ago, johnson4 said:

The original output tray- he put cardboard on it to to make it taller and flat and support the whole sheet.

Printhead goes to paper too close. I removed whole wheel assambly, was that supporting to other Side of carriage? Because it seems like one side of carriage drops down after leaving cap and because of that there is literally no space between. I closed Epson monitor too. I am trying to adjust printer for thick paper but it does not do anything diffirent.

On 3/2/2022 at 1:31 AM, Chevelle said:

Mine did the same thing when i bought it, I just use a piece of cardboard on top of output try level where the sides of the output tray go up. 

Can you put a picture here, i did not understand what you meant well enough.

That is bad ink or film

Hi,

I made a dtf xp15000, but when printing on paper carriage strikes paper on where the rollers was. Is there something additional to do, or should i impovise it. I tried to use thick paper setting but did not work. Using acrorip 10.3. any hints would be helpful

I liked xp-15000 so far, i just plugged a ciss system if it works well, there will be no drawbacks with it.

it depends on rip software. Acro works faster on faster computers. Because it first rips whole image then sends to printer.

Kothari for example sends print immedietly after starting to rip. So you don't wait for rip process, so it does not need a fast computer. If i remember correct ekprint works like this too.

But in the end bone of them needs a computer more than 8 GB RAM and average CPU. They can't use too much. 

Don't know about others.

Okay i guess i will try with demo then. 

20 hours ago, johnson4 said:

I will add, if it were between EKprint, acro, and Cadlink- being the same price- EKprint is the most expensive and worst deal. 
 

Cadlink is far superior to both.
 

acro is $395 and has known bugs with the 15000, but has a dongle license and fully transferable/resellable. Works on a ton of models and can easily swap it around- it’s a dongle. 
 

Cadlink is $395, has a ton of preset print ready supported printers with tons of extras. Also dongle or product key activation. Get the dongle and you can always sell/swap around in the future.
 

ekprint is $350- works for only that one PC, and ONLY that specific printer model. Only one activation. The 3 activation version is $500-$750, with a $100 transfer fee if you tried to sell it with the remaining two activations. These extra 2 activations are for reinstalling purposes only. Go with the one activation for $350 and your PC crash- you’ll have to pay another $350 to activate it again. 
 

ekprint is old and outdated and I won’t recommend it to anyone anymore, even though I used it for 6 years and still use it. it’s expensive, outdated, lacks color profiling features, lacks tons of options that make DTF easy, on top of that it’s limited to one printer model, and one computer- period. So you’ll have to buy the program again if you decide to go with a different printer, and it cannot be resold, unless you sell the whole PC. 
 

I also own Acro and Cadlink. I would recommend both, but being the same price, Cadlink is far superior in features, while Acro is far superior in simplicity and constant updates. Cadlink is known to produce grainy prints, while Acro is easily profiled and does great out of the box. 
 

pick your poison basically. 

Can you print roll for xp-15000 with cadlink?

Does xp-15000 roll print with acrorip 10.3? How is your setting for feeding roll into it?

Put a wide white sticker or tape start of sheet. About 8-10 cm long and all the width.

It is prob. checking paper widht. And cannot recognize dtf film at all so it prints empty. You need to put a white sticker on film so sensor sees paper and starts to print. 

Note that you should put sticker on Max width of paper, if you stick half for example it will print as wide as your sticker so it would print half of image.

2 minutes ago, uhim said:

R3000_adjustment

thank you sir.

Hello can anyone share the adjustment program for R3000 please?

Your printhead somehow have a clog needs to be pulled back at Orange channel if that is only one with problem.

Why it is happening?

Some dirt or bas ink clog could have gone into there and mixed with ink so it cannot leave now. What you must do is, put printhead on solution and pull solution back. Then remove black part where catridges sits, clean it by pumping liquid in that part, reassamble. This should work if it is only one channel. If it keeps happening on all channels your ink is bad. But what you should do is same plus replace catridges or all ciss system and use better inks.

15 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:

Well that’s what I said in my post...that I made sure to clean it daily not missing 1 day. So why would I have any of these issues if I am doing that maintenance daily?

The buildup that I saw was on the edges of the printhead...the aluminum metal thing surrounding the head. I never had headstrikes (that I was aware of) so I’m not sure how that ink even got there. Could this build up really somehow get in the way of the printer printing? Remember...when I do a head clean, the clogs are gone so the blade and capping station seem to be doing their job. The clogs just come back a few prints later. 

it causes your wiper not work well. it happens slowly every time you do head cleaning. It is normal, it is because of our dtg/dtf ink.

14 hours ago, Bobbert said:

I have recently purchased an Epson l1800 dtf build and I am running into a problem on the left sides of my prints. The colors seem to be week and mixed when they should be solid. Any one have any idea what could be causing it?

That usually means you use too much ink for your pet film so your CMYK dont get dry fast and mixed with white on pet film. Possible solutions:

1- buy better pet film, if not solved,

2- buy better ink

Did you try it with polyester powder instead of TPU.

5 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:

Long post ahead...

I personally have had massive headaches with both of my P400s. Used DTF Superstore inks as my first set of inks in both. 
 

My main issue was that after exactly 1 month of use on both, I began to get clogs every 5-10 prints. Running head cleans cleared it up according to the nozzle checks, but then 5-10 prints later, once again clogs. To this day I haven’t figured out why this happens. 

I consistently ran maintenance on these, not missing 1 day:

- Cleaned the wiper blade, capping station and the nipples above the printhead at the end of every print day

- Used cleaning cartridges at the end of the print day and flushed all of the think out (ink flush and then a head clean...maybe I needed to do more? I have no idea)

- printed and kept the printer daily at a controlled 55% humidity

The only thing I didn’t do daily which a lot of people don’t recommend is cleaning under the printhead with a cloth/paper towel because it could scratch the surface of the printhead, but I began doing it after I continued to have problems but it didn’t seem to make a difference. 
 

Yesterday, I finally decided to take the printhead out and apart to see what could be going on. First, there was a ton of dried ink around the printhead (I don’t see how this could have caused issues though..it’s not like it was obstructing the nozzles on the printhead.) Second, the manifold seemed to have ink still in it even when running the cleaning cartridges at the end of every day. So the inks were not getting flushed out completely. But still, there are people, like @johnson4I believe, that don’t even run cleaning cartridges every day, so I’m just clueless how they don’t have these issues while I did on both of my P400s, while I was at least clearing out MOST of the inks every single day. It’s extremely frustrating that I haven’t figured this out after almost 8 months.  

After taking the printhead out, I did what most say is a bad idea to do: did the waterfall thing to clear out clogs. After putting the printhead back in, most clogs are gone but I still see some broken lines on the nozzle checks. We’ll see if that clears up and if the clog every 5-10 print thing happens now.

I got my hands on a P800 and I’m hoping I don’t have these problems, but I am paranoid as hell to start using it after the issues I’ve had with the P400. 

@MiguelH Please keep us updated on how it goes for you. I’m really curious if you run into this clog issue. I don’t see too many people with a P400 to ask. 

You most likely have dried ink inside of black part of printhead. Which you can remove and seperately flush. Then flush printhead if necessary.

Keeping wiper blade, cap sealing and under printhead clean; prevents Air leakage and clogs. It is more important than you think.

Under same conditions p800 would result the same but it have pressurized system so it can remove those clogs. But if you clog p800 and open it with head cleaning too many times it will damage your printhead in long run. So i would suggest same as p400 for maintaince.

Btw i tried dtf on silicone phone cover, it was okay at first but after a week it started to slide on silicone and after a week or so, i could see dtf glue and print was seperately resting on phone cover. Then all started to crack and sometimes drop and stick to my hand. It started to annoy me so i just removed it with knife but some of it stuck on knife now.

It hangs on metal better, but i think i would prefer UV any day.

I am thinking maybe some UV inks could print on it. Soft ones i guess. But you should control UV heat and try to wash it before anything else.

It is about ink yield. When you go for example on L1800 at 1440*720 its white coverage is bad. Dx5 printheads are decent at 1440*720 white coverage. So with 6 white channel each 360 nozzle, it would go much lower resolutions.

Another thing is, i printed with p600 dtg and kothari at 720*720, it prints with whole head 3 passes. it is not printing like normal 720*720. So prints faster and with same quality if your printhead is perfect. However it was a double CMYK printer because ink yield was not enough. But recently i discovered that i can change pass count too so that is not a worry anymore.

In addition, if your print have lines, you can adjust them in settings, if your printhead started get permanent clogs(which starts at outer ends) you can cancel those nozzles and print a little slower. There are a lot of settings you can use.

22 hours ago, johnson4 said:

How would kothari print faster running the same 1440x1440 resolution? 
 

I’ll look into it, but It is very expensive software. 

You can print at lower resolutions wihtout losing quality. if you have 360 nozzle 10 channel printhead, it should print enough ink at 720*720 or maybe lower resolutions. I tested it with p600 it prints same.