anum11

27 minutes ago, johnson4 said:

The p900 is new, so your not going to get a lot of support on it. Also, EKprint has a beta version for it, and acro 11 is said to support it- whenever that comes out. 
 

I would expect bugs and issues, you would be one of the first to convert and use it. 
 

as for the p800, it’s well tested, well documented and works very well, as well it’s Chipless. 
 

I wanted to go the p900 Route, but I’m going to go the p5000 Route if I’m doing cartridge resets. It has higher spec’d printhead so it’s 360 nozzles X10, like the 24” dual printhead printers speed, except it will print higher quality because the printhead is much higher quality than those in the 24” printers. For me, I don’t need 24” width, so 17” width printer for $1,800 VS $12,000 for a Chinese printer is a no brainer for me, with the amount of issues I’ve seen with these 24” printers vs the reliability of an Epson desktop. 
 

Cadlink now supports it, so I’m not stuck with acro rip 10.X to use it. ( which acro doesn’t officially support it anyway). 
 

so, for the price, I’d go with the p800 if you can, or for a few hundred more to with a printer that’s going to print twice as fast ( the p5000). 

if you buy 4900 or p5000, get a kothari. You will print 4 times faster.

13 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

It means Both are not durable?

 

Used ab film and printed glue too.

15 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

Did you used ab film or glue in print head?

Yes used both.

Hi, your cr motor emits more voltage than it needs because of the things attached to carriage. When it happens mainboard thinks ve motor is overheating and slows it. You can put these in and trick the board, while at it place a heatsink to cr motor to accually cool it.

It is not very durable, i used it on phone cover, just putting phone into my Jean and getting back, after 3 days it started to damage. It is a bit better than sticker maybe.

On 12/5/2021 at 7:39 AM, Hangry Muscle said:

 

Not sure how to so I haven't. I think i might be having that issue with the inks mixing right now using the ciss. 

Can you explain? I have a  wet cap solution 

Yeah I think most of mine probably could of been avoided haha. 

 

If ciss is placed high or even if it is sometimes full, inks May leak onto cap station and from there to waste ink tanks. If you have this problem it may also go back into printhead and mix there a bit. But if this is the case, after you print a few mixed ink should go out and you should get correct colors again.

If not maybe your wiper blade is too dirty or your printhead channels may ve leaking inside to eachother. If this is the case when leakage grows some inks start to wont fire and inks may mix and go back way inside of ciss also you will start to see some channel nozzles fade away. However This may usually seen on chinese refurbished printhead or manually cleaned printheads or if you suck ink from capping station hoses with syringe too often.

On 11/28/2021 at 2:02 PM, Chaitanya said:

Hello Friends

 

I have successfully converted Epson L1800 to UV but i have some question and  facing some problem with printer.

I am using Partner Rip as for now.

Following is my questions and problems.

(1) What should be wiper blade position during printing process ? My wiper blade remains 90 degree to head during printing. Shouldn't it to face head while printing?can any one provide wiper blade position sequence ?

- it is normal but you May need UV OEM wiper blade later on. UV heat will destroy original wiper in time.

(2) When i start printing large object it prints vivid colour and super quality but slowly slowly print becomes faint if i do ink flush from Epson utility  again printer start printing in vivid colour and then slowly slowly becomes faint after few prints.What should be reason of it ? is it air leakage of dampers ?

-if there were Air leaking you would not get any ink at all. Your tanks are possibly staying too low and inks drops back to tanks and you printer starves ink. If you put too high it will leak through head you should try and adjust it manually.

 

(3) I have removed Epson original tank and added UV ink bottles for ink supply by drilling two hole on top of bottle one for ink cap and one for air.What should be height of ink bottles compared to print head.If i rise height of bottles then ink continuously leaking through head.If i lower bottles then i need to do ink charge frequently to maintain print quality.

- already answered on second.

 

Awaiting response from your side!!!

I would suspect on capping station too.

21 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

Yes i actually do roll to roll printing ,every morning im wasting 30min to feed the media for the first time its very frustrating i think giving 2200 USD for getting rid of this problem is profitable as they have implemented all the required stuff for good dtf printing what is your opinion 

For me around 2000 USD would be okay for that price. So 2200 is also okay if i need it. You can connect it to mini shaker later if you like. So you are solving your problem and investing on future at the same time. I think it is okay, i would try to bargain a bit.

I did not use l8180 so no idea. 

I only tried once to feed roll into p600 so it was not easy for that one time for me. But when you learn settings it should be easier.

However if you have feeding issues and that is why you are buying a new printer, that white one on video might be better in that aspect.

13 hours ago, Mdrake2016 said:

I've been trying different Chinese suppliers....at the moment, I'm using OCBestJet for the ink (CMYK only...ran out of white) and DTF Superstore for white. I've had no issues for a month (until now with the magenta). When I had issues similar to what you're describing with your cyan and magenta, that was with DTF Superstore inks. 

So it's a huge guessing game as far as inks. People over on the DTF Facebook groups seem to always say that Vibrant Vibes on Etsy has the best ink. Although I honestly feel like they're just trying to support her since she's in the same Facebook groups so I can't say for sure how well her inks are. But I did research and found that I may know her supplier. I've used their whte inks and they're VERY thin compared to everyone else's inks that I've tried. When I used their white, I had to increase it to 75% while I use 60% with DTF Superstore in Cadlink. But I'm thinking the thinner inks just may be what I need to do. I still have their color inks (they're a bit old) but they claim a 1 year shelf life if they're unopened, so I will give them a try.

When you used your P400 for 6,000 transfers, did you ever have to remove the printhead and do any cleaning? That's one thing I haven't done because I've seen way too many warnings against it. 

What I typically do at the moment is put cleaning carts in at the end of the day, run one head clean and then an ink charge. In between each, I clean the wiper blade each time, and squirt cleaner into the capping station while it's cleaning. It was going well until this week. For the first time on Monday, I cleaned beneath the printhead with a paper towel and cleaner, and there were definitely some dried particles that came off, which blows my mind because of how much cleaner I've ran through the printhead.

Earlier, I gave up tryiand decided to do the reverse flush, regular flush on the magenta (I know you say to never do that....but the frustration today pushed me). So far it's been printing fine for the past hour since then.

I'm wondering if cleaning below the printhead shouuld be part of the daily maintenance at the end of the day. I thought it wouuld always be clean since I use cleaning carts every night, but with dried ink still being there earlier this week, it looks like it may be necessary.

If you manually clean your printhead too many times, even if you do a good job, after a while it will start to leak from sides or channels will mix together because you will damage the glue inside of printhead. If you are getting nozzles right problem is something else.

These are just normal L1800 printers with some tweaks. If price is not over 2x price of the base printer, it may worth buying.

On 11/9/2021 at 5:08 PM, johnson4 said:

Yea, ink was something that I left out. I have some that’s been expired for 6 months and works fine though. 

On peak conditions most inks are usable for a year, after they manufactured not after when you buy.

Peak conditions:

Room tempature

Humidity

If inks are shaken everyday

Inks should not get sun light

inks should not interact with Air for too long

inks should not get any dust in it

you should clean bottles and ink tanka regularly from solid inks.

Any ink releated part May cause This. You need to clean all parts and check if they block any liquid flowing. If they still block liquid flow, you need to replace those parts.

Last option is maybe your ink gone bad and re-cloging dampers.

Why is it beta i wonder if it is working as intended. Also p900 would be really nice.

They are in stock in my country, we have catridges so only missing thing is rip. 

It seems similar to xp15000, however in orginal use i think xp15000 uses pigment inks, these models uses dye inks.

On 10/28/2021 at 6:40 AM, johnson4 said:

but most important, how are you going to circulate/mix the white ink?

You can always change entire ink lines and dampers if you want to.

You could use something like vacuum to suck the dust and put it back to top.

Hello, May i have the code too, umutt4n@hotmail.com

This sits on where your catridge sits. There are ones with video on aliexpress you can check them.

On 10/8/2021 at 8:10 PM, johnson4 said:

Yea, that is a lot of ink there, I would take precautions to prevent it from damaging the head. This is almost everyone’s issue on the 15000. I’m making a damper adapter for mine to do away with it and so it seals when installed. 
 

seems like you know what you are doing, so that’s good, I didn’t mention it because these die from people messing up removing the head. 
 

as for the ink level, I don’t know, I have never experienced it. Possibly reinstall the firmware, but if it works no use in messing with it. Get your jobs done then see if re doing the chipless firmware fixes it if it bothers you. I would imagine that to be firmware related, but who knows. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313578855223

Here you go.

I seen some videos online, they are claiming to dtf without powder, on pretreated shirts. Anybody tried it yet? If so how are washing tests and quality?

You May have prints waiting on print q. Delete them.

Just use higher RPM 10 if necessary. More is good, and i don't think any significant amount diffirence there will be. 

Most likely when you want it to go slower, it just lowers DC output. So RPM also gets low. If you can go %50 with 3 RPM motor, with same conditions you can go to %30 with 5 RPM. If you want to put more powder and go lower speeds at same time then go 10 or 20 RPM.

P400 tends to die randomly i could not figure out why. It seems their mainboard is really fraigle, so it is best to keep them in a well climated area.