johnson4

You can figure out the speed by just dividing the inches into what you need. if you do 12"- 14" wide it will do 252 inches an hour. If you do 14"-17" wide it will do 228 inches an hour.

so if you did 24" long sheets it would do 10.5 sheets sized 12-14" wide X 24" long sheets an hour. The same for the 14"-17" width would be 9.5 sheets of 14"-17" X 24" an hour.

I just break that down into 12" X 12" so it's a square foot and easy to calculate any which way.

The P6000 will do 15 23" X 12" an hour, or 32 11" X 11" an hour, however you want to see that. The carriage pass speed is slower on the P6000 so you don't get a ton of speed increase over the P6000. 

Still, overall, that is 2,016 inches of 12" transfers in 8 hours on the P5000. 168 12" X 12" in a work day per machine. 

1,440 inches in 8 hours on the P6000 by 23" wide. So 120 12" X 23" in a work day per machine. 

If you print white only, you can double that speed for both machines. 

The dual head i3200 24" machines can do 320 12" X 23" prints in a work day per machine for reference, given you don't get any clogging printing at the same quality as the Epson machines. 

5 hours ago, calebsmith2032 said:

I notice people don’t go over 19inches for gangsheets on the p5000. Is there a reason for this? Would fitting 2 12x12 prints on 1 sheet not make sense? I figure you’d have less waste if you can keep the artwork closer together 

I print 10-40 foot long prints on it all the time.
 

Not sure why there would be a perceived limitation. I think the longest run I’ve ever done on one non-stop was a bit over 100 feet. 
 

even then, you can print back to back jobs without any waste, it backfeeds and starts where it left off on the previous print. 

It’s a very capable machine. 

52 minutes ago, calebsmith2032 said:

I was wondering what the maximum work load for a p5000 is. I regularly get orders of 50-100 shirts and wanted to see if maybe 80-100 gang sheets printed in a day is possible 

You can do 21 12”x12” prints an hour with the P5000. It does 19 16”x12” prints an hour. 
 

Roughly 13 13”x19” an hour from the P5000. 

4 hours ago, MaxQ said:

We've been printing DTG for a few years now and just started with DTF. We use an Epson F2100 and get some great results (mostly).

Issues we've seen are,

 

1. The powder always cures as a yellow color (except when just using white ink). This does not seem to affect the print on the shirts, the yellow ink does seem to transfer to the T-Seal sheet even though the instructions don't say it's not compatible.

That said again does not seem to transfer back to the printed item.

2. We use a DTFPRO HEAT STATION V2 where it says the temp should be 248 for 120 seconds, instructions on the manufacturer film contradict these.
I.e 300-315°F, 1min so not sure what temp and time to use. Get pretty good results but frequent "pin holes" in the ink. 
Can anyone advise on how to avoid those?

3. Issues with Magenta and White, we found recently any design with red or colors using Magenta print ok but when the white is printed over the top the red starts to bleed through the white. Tried leaving 60 second drying time between color and white with no difference.

Hoping someone can help us out.
DTF is a game changer and suddenly we can print on all kinds of fabrics and substrates, just have to iron out the bugs for those perfect prints.

1-2: sounds like overheating. Lower temperature increase time. Problem with machines like that is it’s not the “temperature” it’s the cycle that cures. Those bulbs heat up to 700F in a few seconds easily. If the bulb stays on for 15-20 seconds before actually heating up the unit and temperature probe, then you’ve just put your transfer in a 700F oven for 20 seconds. The bulbless machines aren’t as bad, but still develop hot spots. So while the probe may read and stay at 248F, the temperature at the film can have easily reached 700+ before it registered that. 
 

my recommendation: for testing, pre heat machine by turning it on as if you were curing a sheet but with nothing in it. Then, immediately after while it’s still hot, try to cure a sheet and see if it changes. 

2. I cure mine at about 71C ( preheated, always on) for 3 minutes. The bulbs only cycle on to maintain the temperature, which is about 3-5 seconds on time. Perfect cure. Another machine I have cures at 98C, about 3 minutes. If I did 75C on the first machine, my film would be kinda crinkly, yellow, and pinholes. 
 

it’s not really about the temperature, it’s about the cycling of the bulbs and the airflow. Each machine design will be a bit different. Testing is required, especially for a Chinese machine. 
 

the other issue is probably a compatibility issue with the film/ink. 

3 hours ago, laci said:

i heard 4900 is very similar, will be a good choice?

The 4900 is the older model of the 5000 so they probably function about the same. 
 

The 4900 did come out in 2010, so it could be anywhere from 13-6 years old, can’t say how long it would work for you at that point. Any older/used models I’ve converted never lasted long without needing overhauled. Old Oem ink turns into a clog forming gel, so just about everything is bound to need manually cleaned and flushed if you want the best case scenario from it. 
 

me personally I’d remove the damper assembly and flush the ink system from the cartridges to the printhead, replace the dampers (with oem) and the capping station. Otherwise all that stuff would be flushed through the printhead. 
 

i like sticking to current gen machines as printheads and parts are readily available and usually not price hiked if they are out of production. New Printhead from Epson for the P5000 is $810. 
 

sounds silly doing all that, but if you want reliability you need a new machine or refurbish an old one first. Otherwise it’s just issue after issue. A new P5000 is around $1900 delivered. Sell the oem ink for $300. Buy carts and a resetter, about $150. 
 

use BHphoto and use their interest free credit card. It’s like $158 a month, no interest. 
 

after 3 months you’ll need to flush the oem white ink lines, OR at that point with your profit invest in a white ink circulation system, it’s about $100-$150 to add and bypass the white ink cartridges. 
 

don’t go sticking aftermarket dampers on it if you want reliability and longevity. 
 

there are several very detailed posts here about the P5000. 

good luck

4 hours ago, laci said:

Hi everyone , im here to asking which will be better option to convert , we had some sad stories about epson 3800 and 3880 ( print quality its amazing but the head fired for no reason on both machine , we didnt take out the head or something like this, we printed fine and next day pronted blank page checked f5 fuse the fuse bleeping )

so now we want to look for a better printer, i know converted printers come with lot of headache i know the commercial ones is better but our budget right now not allowing us to buy a commercial printer so thats why we looking again for converting 

we are courios if 4900 worth it the conversion , im waiting for pros and cons from 4900/p5000 users thanks 

P5000 is a beast. I run 3 of them. 

9 hours ago, Yellowsugga said:

So does this mean the printhead from the R3000 would work in the P800? I think i wrecked my P800 with a head strike. Could I swap a printhead from a R3000 into it?

Unlikely, they lock their printheads or make small changes so you can’t.

the reason the P800 works in the P600 is because it’s the same generation, and the P800 is larger than the P600, so it uses a more versatile head. Or just the “ 17”l version. The P600 head is locked to not work in the P800 head, it’s the cheaper 13” version lrinter. 
 

it prevents people from buying the printer, pulling the head, and tossing it for less than buying a head for a larger format machine. 
 

take the Epson F2100 for example. Uses the exact same head as the P5000. Yet, it’s $1,000 more. Profits. 
 

you could always try, but it’s very unlikely. 

3 hours ago, anum11 said:

This one is audley. However older machines were have its problems. Newer models are always better. Maybe your old Audley were not perfected when you bought.

I am going to get a diffirent brand 4 head machine in near future but even the manufacturer does not expect the speed i got out from this. They were telling me at 4 pass it was possible to get around 23 meters of speed max.

I would not really prefer newer and cheaper manufacturers. Just go for %10 expensive from the guys who were manufacturing this kinda printers, also care if they were manufacturing sublimation printers before dtf was a thing. Audley have an experience with wide format sublimation units. I am telling you this because roll printing was a thing before and these printers were used for sublimation printing. So an ezperienced seller before the dtf time, would be better in my opinion.
 

Cheaper options are newer to compete so i would not trust cheapest options nor printers other than 60 cm wide.

 

Thank you, I agree based on what I do know. I also try to mix in market awareness of certain models so I can piggy back on their support/better drivers.
 

It’s why I fear buying any random machine. Quality, established in the market and value. My problem with established business is they usually are stuck in their ways. Last time I tried to buy an Audley they refused unless I also purchased their shaker. 
 

I talked to Andy several times ( I think he’s very busy) and I just didn’t know enough to commit and he didn’t have the time to enlighten me. 
 

have you ever heard of the Calca brand? That’s the model I am considering, it’s the same as the prestige XL2. Size looks good, many videos and has a good Cadlink driver supporting it. 

3 hours ago, Imported4nbot said:

Our fume extractor died, but our boss still wants us to run the machine. As an underpaid operator/mechanic/techician/ custodian of the DTF machine, I am running it in a basement of our facility. Because there's no fume extraction, the DTF adhesive powder turns into this oil like byproduct. When cleaning it, I got this extreme allergic reaction all over my skin, extremely itchy hives. I can't imagine what it does inhaling it. Did anybody else experience this?

What you are dealing with isn't from the powder necessarily, it's from the ink. 

The main things you are dealing with is: 

Ethylene glycol

Glycerol

N-diethylethanamine

-Benzisothiazol-3(2H)-one

For Ethylene glycol(oily stuff): 

Ethylene glycol breaks down into toxic compounds in the body. Ethylene glycol and its toxic byproducts first affect the central nervous system (CNS), then the heart, and finally the kidneys. Ingesting enough can cause death.

For Ethylene Glycol contact:

Skin contact with liquid ethylene glycol or breathing low levels of vapors in the air is generally not harmful or causes only minor irritation. Very few individuals develop an allergic rash when the liquid is on their skin.

Glycerol ( oily stuff) : 

glycerol is of low toxicity when ingested, inhaled or in contact with the skin. 

For the N-diethylethanamine: 

Causes burns; Inhalation may cause corrosive injuries to upper respiratory tract and lungs; Highly toxic by ingestion, inhalation, and skin absorption. Can result in skin burns in concentrated form. 

The last one is basically an anti-microbial agent, which can cause your eyes to water/burn. 

The adhesive does also release toxic fumes when heated/overheated, but it's not the oily stuff everywhere. That oily stuff is the ink carrier evaporating and re-condensing into it's liquid form. I do not know how much of the diethylethanamine is in the ink, nor how much is in the oil residue after it's cured. 

In general the ink itself has a toxicity level of 2 and should not be inhaled, consumed or make skin contact. When concentrated after evaporated and recollected,I don't know what would be left or the toxicity level at that point. 

In general, you should not breathe in the fumes or play with the stuff. Wear gloves, and vent to the outside or use a fume extractor. Personally, I never understood the use of a fume extractor, just vent it outside with a 4" in-line fan. $20 on amazon. 

More than likely it's what is in the ink that is being evaporated into the air that is bother you the most, as well as it's accumulation on things. 

In the past someone had dealt with chest pains and what doctors thought was a respatory infection for months due to not proper venting. When they vented properly, it went away within days. At least that is what I read. 

If my fan didn't work, I wouldn't be printing. It's not worth my health.  It's why I have a backup fan. 

3 hours ago, porl said:

Thank you, I'll try that when I get back in front of the printer tonight. If it is software, what kind of setting do you think would need to change? I'm using cadlink of that helps.

It would unlikely be a setting but rather a driver/compatibility issue. 
 

it really looks like to me some form of air or drying of the nozzles. The test would tell I’d think. 

4 hours ago, porl said:

I'm not sure how better to describe this, but I am running a new "Generic Chinese" printer using i3200 print heads. Everything seems to be working okay (or at least has a workaround) except for one major issue. Any time a colour channel is not used for a short time (even within one print image) it appears as though there is a blockage. After a small delay it is back to normal again. Basically, the start of any image, or the start of that colour in a region of the image, it looks like I need to run a head clean. But then the problem goes away until that colour channel "pauses" again.

I've attached a small sample of this (sorry about the photo quality) where you can see the problem at the top. This will happen even immediately after a head clean/nozzle test.

I suspect it is to do with air bubbles, but I have done everything I can to remove them from the dampers, and there seems to be no change. If it was one colour I'd suspect maybe the damper or tubing has a small leak, but this is a new machine and it is happening to various degrees on basically every channel.

Is there perhaps a way to remove air from the i3200 head itself? Could this be the cause? Working in my other job on a large format sublimation printer I have had issues with air bubbles trapped inside the head itself, however that has the effect that the print starts okay and then fades out. This seems to be the total opposite.

I'm at my wits end with this machine. We have had very little support and it is now nearly a month since I received the machine and I still have not sold one print

I really appreciate any input.

I feel your pain, I have no advice for this situation but I think we have all been there. My assumptions would be the same as yours.

What I do to try and purge out air bubbles or diagnose similar issues is turn up the color ink setting ( I would just turn up saturation) and make a large CMYK file of the problem color. Turn off the white ink layer and print a large block of that color. Sometimes I do 12" X 12", sometimes larger. Usually that will give an indication if it's an ink feed issue or some other issue of that nature.

Me personally, I would do a 12" X 12" block of magenta for example, then immediately afterwards reprint( like as soon as it's finished the first one). This should help make sure there aren't any air bubbles, make sure the dampers are fine and that it's not drying out at the head very quickly in a new enviroment. Two large block prints one after another, if it does it again on the 2nd one after successfully printing the first, I would assume software. If it works fine, I would assume it's drying out at the head very quickly and possibly the cap isn't seating correctly. If it still does the exact same thing on the 2nd block, I would assume software. 

4 hours ago, anum11 said:

No there is no re adjustments needed if you dont unscrew printheads etc. On back side there is a rod that adjusts, roll paper’s tension. If you dont have that your step settings going to vary depending on which meter of roll you are using.

the video prints 56 cm width pdf, around 29 meters an hour. This is as i said prob. fastest speed possible. This is on Light ecolosion setting. Other one is on fog type ecolosion, this prints 18 meters. A better one is strong A but this one is unnecessary for me. Using these 2 settings with 4 pass. Ecolosion setting adjusts print height on a pass. It becomes larger or slower. 
 

On cadlink for epson printers it similar to inline speed.

Thank you. Maybe I just was terrible with the Audley A3, I'll have to revisit that machine. I had to adjust something literally everyday. It used the basic bolt/spring tensioners for the film. 

95 12" X 24" (29 meters) an hour is insane for a dual head 400 nozzle per channel printer, if it comes out looking good. 18 meters is still very good. Makes me wonder what you could get out of a 4 head machine. 

I think it makes sense to me now why the print speeds vary so much even though it's based on the same technology. As you say, The build quality and how perfect/firm you get your settings will determine the speed it will print. If your not exact with your alignments and settings, 6 pass will probably hide that. Then a higher eclosion would aid further in that especially for a beginner giving off a good quality transfer. If the person were persistent, they can achieve up to your stated speeds given they have the patience and the machine can hold it's alignment well. 

so things to consider when comparing 2 i3200 machine speeds: 

1. how fast the head pass is, the physical carriage speed. 

2. the 4-6-8 pass setting, for the resolution. 

3. The eclosion setting ( which is the part I was missing before you started talking to me about it).

4. The printhead specs/type. 

5. RIP

To be conservative and to help beginners or if the machine build quality isn't "perfect" you would advertise a slower speed to meet expectations. An "advanced" user can likely take that same machine and do much more as you say. So the 6 pass/higher eclosion settings allows  beginners to have a functioning setup without being a master at it and sets their expectations. Advertising such a high speed compared to " real world" beginners would just result in a ton of complaints with how tedious it would be to get it right would likely cause huge problems. 

If a manufacturer doesn't support 4 pass, one could assume the machine isn't capable of maintaining that setting for an extended period of time or they don't want to assist in getting the nozzles/settings/alignments perfect, so 6 pass is used. 

Sorry, thinking out loud as to why I am seeing ranges from 23 12" X 24" an hour up to 95 12" X 24" an hour on the same printhead/mainboard combo. 

It all makes sense.

In your opinion, what machine brand(s) do you believe would offer a good build quality and actually have manufacturer support if you don't mind me asking?

5 hours ago, anum11 said:

There is a ecolosion setting. That also effects the speed. Think this as inline speed in cadlink. And there is 4-6-8 pass settings, this is 1200x720 - 1800x720 - 2400x720. 
 

I never use anything other than 4 pass. Because the colors are always accurate and color layer quality is same. However on ecolosion’s fastest speed; white is a bit worse. If i need a better white i just change that and that gives me around 18 meters/hour. That is the slowest i go.

So printing at 4 pass, your eclosion setting changes the print speed from 98 12" X 24" an hour to 59 12" X 24" an hour on the next "better quality" setting? I would be perfectly fine with that being the fastest speed if the quality was as good as or better than one of these slow machines. From your video, it looks achievable. It seems like the slower the print speed the more room for error when tuning the printer. 

Do you encounter having to readjust the settings often on the machine? the alignments and all that? The Audley A3 had to have some form of realignment daily.

5 hours ago, anum11 said:

There is a ecolosion setting. That also effects the speed. Think this as inline speed in cadlink. And there is 4-6-8 pass settings, this is 1200x720 - 1800x720 - 2400x720. 
 

I never use anything other than 4 pass. Because the colors are always accurate and color layer quality is same. However on ecolosion’s fastest speed; white is a bit worse. If i need a better white i just change that and that gives me around 18 meters/hour. That is the slowest i go.

So you have 4-6-8 pass printing which coincides with the feed resolution making up those three resolutions. Makes sense. 4 pass resolution seems like it would be perfectly fine in that aspect. 

I don't believe I understand Eclosion setting though. Per your reference, this slows/speeds up the prints in cadlink with Epson machines. It makes the printhead pass print width smaller/larger. If none is selected it prints all at once color and white. If fastest setting is chosen, it prints larger " ink lines" in one pass. The slower, the smaller this print line/feed rate. 

so say a 1" X 1" image is printed, it will take 4 head passes to fully print the fastest. If I make it the slowest, it's something like 12 with the same print quality selected. 

I have no idea what or why this does this, as it also seems like a quality setting. I do not understand it's function and is likely why I have issues understanding print speed. 

It almost seems like Eclosion is the quality, but then what is the pass/resolution?

I agree entirely, It's not on the components necessarily, rather the design. That is why I haven't purchased one. 

I have had only the experience with the Audley A3 machine. The small 13" machine. The Epson P5000 prints much faster than this machine, with much less hassle. The difficulty of the machines settings, keeping those settings, an overall issues has given me a bad vibe about it. 

That's my problem, I cannot for the life of me find any supplier willing to put in any effort or explanation on their machine. 

I have reached out to DTFsuperstore multiple times with questions, several unanswered and some vague alongside tons of other Chinese suppliers. Anytime I get that salesman vibe over answering questions or anything related to actual information, I walk away.

In the end I am just trying to find how real world print speeds, quality, and overall support on a 24" chinese machine. Because at the end of the day I want to have the tools and device needed so I can form my skills around the device and get actual use from it, not another paperweight. 

I want to buy a 24" machine, dual head I3200, just still haven't figured it out yet because I only have one " go" at it. 

It's just confusing for me because here it shows they only do 30 10" x 10" an hour at 6 pass: 

https://dtfsuperstore.com/collections/dtf-printers/products/mongoose-24-dtf-printer-only-basic-package

Does 6 pass really slow the machine down that much?

4 hours ago, anum11 said:

4 pass yes @johnson4 White is around %75 it is possible to throw more white in. check the video. Thou this is a lot of work really. To make this work this fast everything have to be adjusted well.

 

IMG_3211.mov 166.27 MB · 0 downloads

Thank you for that @anum11, I greatly appreciate it. I would imagine that would have to be perfectly tuned as you say. 

Have you ever ran this at 6 pass? What kind of speed do you get from it in that mode if you know? 

Right now I am at like 4.57 M/h with the quality similar to 6 pass so that's an insane increase, likely even at 6 pass that would be worth it which would probably be easier to tune an keep tuned. 

11 hours ago, johnson4 said:

So that’s like 98 12”x24” prints an hour from a dual head Chinese machine? 
 

 

That's like 18 inches a minute X the printer width or 1.5 24" X 12" prints a minute if the machine is a 24" machine. That's insanely fast. Are you certain that is correct? @anum11

I haven't really been able to get a direct answer on this.  The 360 nozzle Epson does 15 24" X 12" an hour for an example. That would be 6.4 times faster and well worth the extra effort if remotely accurate. If so, That is probably 4 pass quality correct or is that 6 pass?

1 hour ago, anum11 said:

I get a 30 meters an hour from 2*i3200 printhead audley. With cadlink and color profile, also the film itself, you can have nonnplactic printouts.

extra matte cold peel films specially, with profiled rip gives out a very nice printout while using printer at full speeds.

However ink is also important i dont have any nozzles missing for about 8 months. So i can use printer reliably at high speeds and print quality never drops. My inks are a bit more watery so they dont block printheads easyly.

Also on that part allignments of ink system and settings are very important on chinese machines. When i bought the machine it took me 1 month to perfect all settings.

So that’s like 98 12”x24” prints an hour from a dual head Chinese machine? 
 

1 hour ago, Bsloan09 said:

When it comes to dtf, I run a audley 2 head. I'm not completely new to printing, as I've been printing close to a year but u still know there's so much to learn. With that being said, what's your best tip for getting the softest feel? My prints can feel sorta plastic-y sometimes. 

 

Any tips would be great. 

Care to share how many 12”x24” you can produce in an hour? 
 

it’s the type of adhesive you use and how much sticks to the transfer. Getting the white ink layer just right, along with the preheater and duster/slapper settings. It’s a combination of those things that determine the adhesive layer thickness. After that, it’s on the adhesive you use. 

3 hours ago, Denise23 said:

@Johnson4 can you help me with converting mine? 

Sorry, I’ve never used that model

6 hours ago, Yellowsugga said:

Thanks I'll have a look in the settings but I couldn't find any other ones but I'll try the production setting as you suggested. 

The DTF station A3+R was just a 1390 with some added features which all broke. Blew the orinthead and motherboard after less than 2 months of use. Can't believe I got tricked into paying close to 5k CAD for that POS. The Canadian retailer I bought it from stopped selling that model shortly after I bought it because they had too much problems with it and the after sales support was insane. 

It was super slow barely getting 8-10 Sqft per hour. When I took it apart to replace the motherboard I realized how badly made it was. They also sold me the 13 inch shaker for 8k CAD. Luckily I can use it with this p5000. 

They offered to take the printer back and reimburse me 4k for it if I upgrade to the XL2 24" dual.head printer for another 18k CAD. Luckily I learned my lesson and started oing some research before making another huge mistake. I realized how bad that DTF station printer was when I converted my 10 year old 1430 for 60$ in carts and it printer almost as good of not better than that 5k piece of junk. 

Super glad I got this p5000 and if it last me a year I'll be happy and pick up another one or a p6000. At under 3k these are way better options than the 15-25k dtf station crap. 

 

 

Yeah, that’s crazy. I bought one conversion, it was an R2400 about 2 years ago. Not one successful print it was so riddled with problems. 
 

I’ve been doing this since the DTG days so I know Epson, and I know what works. 
 

I considered the XL2, a true Chinese machine and not a conversion. But the print speeds are so inflated and not really described. One video said that machine can do 100+ an hour. 
 

the P5000 does 21+ an hour in the fastest mode in Cadlink. There are more advanced settings available in Cadlink, you may need to enable “ advanced” settings to see them. Resolutions, ICC profiles, all kinds of stuff. 
 

if you haven’t dedicated yourself to a RIP, I would consider Acro or something other than Cadlink, I’ve been selling transfers for over a year now and can’t just swap around, people get angry. Cadlink has more grain to it than other rips at the same settings. It prints great colors, but on the lighter colors isn’t as solid as I’d like. 

9 hours ago, Yellowsugga said:

After tinkering with this all night, I finally got this to work. Thanks again for all your help. This printer is so "smart" compared to the Chinese printers its crazy. One question , I have is even though I'm using the Epson SC-5000 DTV v2 printer profile, I don't seem to be able to print past 1440x720 as that's the only profile in Cadlink. The other option is "Default" with my other printers (1430 and A3+R from DTF Station), I'm able to chose between multiple printing options. Is there a way to do this with this printer?

You can do

multiple resolutions in the printer settings menu in cadlink. I think up up 1440x2880. The “speed” setting is also important to consider. Just leave it at 1440x720 and bump it to production instead of “ fastest”. It’s basically 1440x1440. 
 

it is a good machine, my problem is the speed. Are the Chinese machines faster? 

7 hours ago, Yellowsugga said:

Thanks so much for the clarification. I think your setup makes the most sense to me as well. Hopefully it works for me as well as it does for you. 

Hopefully it does. They’ve been good. I learn something new all the time so don’t beat yourself up if you break something. I do it all the time, it’s how I learn. 

38 minutes ago, Yellowsugga said:

One quick question, I'm using CADLINK Digital Factory 10 and it shows the following colour profile. Should I follow this profile or can I change this in CADLINK? Follow this profile, I would put 

 

Yellow in channel 2 where LLK should be

Cyan in channel 4 where Light Cyan should be 

Magenta in channel 5 where Light Magenta should be

Black where Light Black should be in position 9

White as indicated in the channels indicated.

 

A Few Questions:

1. What do I do with the green and orange channels (Leave them as is or cleaning fluids?)

2. Why is Cadlink using channel 2 for Yellow instead of the OEM Yellow Channel?

3. Should I really fill all 5 channels with white right away as indicated? Or should I leave some empty in case some channels get clogged. Is there a way in CADLINK to turn off some of the channels?

Thanks in advance

 

 

You can change the ink order. Cadlink only allows you to use 8 channels for this driver. CMYKWWWWXX. Two channels are disabled. You choose which two. You can do 6 white, or 4. I did 4 originally and used cleaner for the other two. 
 

me personally I did the left side white and right side cmyk. You use a cleaner cart in the matte black. 
 

Acro also allows you to set up the ink channels, some other rips do not so I would make sure to commit before having to flush if you decide to change the rip to one that doesn’t support changing the link channels.

the original drivers in my side are setup as OEM for CMYK to be CMYK for DTF. The “light” inks are white and Orange/green. Which, of course that can be changed. 
 

Cadlink doesn’t allow you to turn off 3 channels, or 4. It’s kinda weird actually. I can run the P5000 on two white channels, they just don’t let you disable them.

11 minutes ago, Yellowsugga said:

Thanks for the quick reply. I have been reading your post about flushing the system to get rid of the white ink sludge buildup and I'll definitely do that once I start printing with this thing. My question was more of what's the recommended solution for converting and flushing out the oem inks of an existing non dtf p5000. I do understand the basic concepts but was wo during if there was any insight regarding the first flush and addition of the DTF inks. From a practical perspective just adding the new carts and printing a bunch of purge files or performing nozzle checks seems the more economical.way vs having a second set of cartridges filled with cleaning solution (piezo flush for example). I'll do some more reading and see if thus has been discussed previously.  Thanks again. 

It's just a preference type of thing. You can do either. Me myself, I wouldn't want a set filled with cleaner for this machine so I would flush the OEM with the DTF straight away. The previous times I flushed with cleaner then aftermarket inks it was generally just a waste of time. 

You can do a ink flush in the admin menu on the printer. 1-2 of those will flush out all of the OEM ink and done if you load the DTF ink directly. 

Some people swear by flushing the OEM ink first, or the other way around. Either way hasn't shown any ill effect for me. For the P5000 specifically, all of mine have been new. For other models, I just went straight to the ink I wanted to use. I didn't want the extra carts wear and tear on the cap pump or the printhead. Yes, I have done it before, I just found it unnecessary.