johnson4
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Posts posted by johnson4
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Very nice, I bet that took some time to complete. Great job on this.
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Here is the same brand SSR, not that it matters but it's there:
If you read some of the more serious reviews, it doesn't look like these are good quality. The first link I sent, I've used several times and work well.
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45 minutes ago, Ricavee said:
The relay on the bottom is for your take-up roller. The relay on the top/right is for the heater bulbs.
There is a red light on both of them. The red light indicates it's receiving a signal and that everything else is working when powered on. If no power is going to the bulbs, and bulbs appear intact and the wire inside appears solid and that relay's red light is on when powered on, then it's likely the relay.
I can't tell from the photo, but does the top/right relay say 15A? Replacement can be bigger. Usually I do 40A, doesn't hurt anything and doesn't strain the relay. This is the maximum ampacity that can flow through the relay before failure. Chinese stuff, that rating is usually overexaggerated. Doing 40A ensures it's far away from it's maximum limit which usually extends service life.
Here is a link for a replacement:
You can easily test if relay is bad, but I do not know your skill level and it can be dangerous. These relays fail often, usually in the "on" position but not always.
The way these are wired is with 2 hot wires if it's a 220V device. One wire is connected to power continuously on the other side of the bulbs, which you don't see here.
The relay breaks the other side( the two wires in the top) to turn them on/off. This is how it normally works with something like a household light switch as well except with a neutral instead of a hot.
One wire in the top of the relay is ALWAYS on when plugged in. The other wire goes to the bulbs. On the relay on top, the white wire on the right, that's to the bulbs. The red wire on the left on the top, is the other hot for the bulbs. BOTH wires can hurt you when plugged in.
Without a return path(neutral for 120V systems) or the oscillation of the other 120V hot leg, it won't work, so if the relay has failed there is no path for the other side of the bulbs power to cause them to work. With that said, if you have a 120V/220V voltmeter you can test the relay output or use other " unsafe" methods to test the fuction bypassing the relay to test the other components of the unit to know if the relay is bad.
You could also just replace the relay, as that is likely the problem if you are using the proper input power source for the shaker.
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Unplug the machine, take off the silver cover with buttons and send a photo of that inside.
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4 hours ago, Ricavee said:
How do I know which relay it is ?
Do you have a photo?
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18 minutes ago, Ricavee said:
Hey guys I need help! I have to print 80 transfers for a funeral and my shaker/baker is stuck at 23 heat. It will not heat up at all I’m clueless I’ve googled searched everywhere I’m not sure what’s going on please help 😩
Are the bulbs warm or ice cold?
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33 minutes ago, Ricavee said:
So I was wondering if anybody has had an issue with the shaker not heating up at all? It was working fine yesterday and re arranged my office moving the shaker and when I plugged it back in, it just doesn’t wanna heat at all??? It turns on just won’t heat
If it’s the correct voltage going into the machine and the temperature screen works, it’s likely a relay. If it were the bulbs I doubt all would be broken at once.
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4 minutes ago, vh12 said:
It is fully functional
Until it isn’t.
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4 hours ago, porl said:
Did you end up getting one of these? Those prices look very cheap and possibly suspicious.
I think we both know what that is.
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3 hours ago, laci said:
i bought the printer second hand, with around 500 prints ( when i bought it was the capping station faulty , not sucked the ink properly so i changed it , when i bought it i run 2 nozzle check all nozzles was perfect.. and when i suck ink with syringe to damper and i do a nozzle check everything is perfect. so thats why i say my nozzles are not clogged
I am glad you know it's not the printhead, Now the deducing to solve the problem begins. I wish you luck, It's a fun road for sure.
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2 hours ago, laci said:
Hi all, i have an epson 3800, recently converted , 1 of my white and black nozzles are poor, i know its not clogged because when i pull with syringe from damper everything come back, but after few prints the problem comes back, i changed already the capping station and dampers, but same, what can i do to solve this issue?
That doesn't mean the nozzles are not clogged, it also doesn't mean that you don't have weak nozzles. Doing a nozzle check before and after printing a solid block of color would help see what the issue is.
A printhead with weak nozzles that has been running thick ink or struggling with ink flow for awhile will slowly weaken the nozzles in the printhead until it can no longer create the suction needed as the piezo crystals weaken. Eventually they will not be able to overcome the suction required to open the damper. This is why it works after a head clean until that initial pre-load of ink is dispensed and it starts struggling again.
It's either a weak printhead, bad quality ink, poor quality aftermarket dampers, or something to do with your ink system. Could be poor sealing at the damper port and a busted printhead seal from improperly flushing the head. Hard to tell which without seriously digging into it.
I learned long ago with Epson's it's best to stick to OEM dampers. Use a high quality ink, and make sure you clean any cartridge ports often, replacing them as needed if they have screens in them for the cartridges.
That is an old printer, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's just tired, especially if you have used it for any amount of time with the thicker aftermarket inks.
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25 minutes ago, DCS said:
Thank you for your response. As luck would have it, I just sold my P6000 and held on to the dinosaurs ( 9900, 9600, 3800, 3880, 4800, 2200). I guess that I was hoping that I could get the simplest R2200 model to work with EKPrint, and then work up to one of the larger models. When it started printing the white separately from the color, I just thought it was my error in not knowing which boxes needed checking on EK Print. Your comments have always been helpful and appreciated.
I'm glad it helped some, good luck out there.
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2 hours ago, ajt said:
I have an OpenDTG P600 printer that I would like to use for DTF. Is this possible? Other than completely flushing the system for the new ink would there be any other setup outside of adjusting the flatbed height and updating the RIP software?
Pretty much all that needs done is what you said. I'd recommend single pass printing.
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4 hours ago, DCS said:
I have a 4800 that is similar and wonder if it will have some peculiarities that might make it unworkable? I have tried to convert an Epson 2200 and an Epson 9600, using EK Print and I can not get either to print DTF white over color. It prints each layer out separately.....color first.....then a separate white layer. It is probably just me but I can not figure out a fix. Any help would be appreciated.
Some drivers don’t support cmyk+white. There is also a setting to check that does single pass which is needed for DTF, if it’s grayed out or not there, it’s not available for that device.
I know the 4900 is basically the same, the 4800 I have no idea but I’ve seen it used for dtf.
I went with the P5000 because it’s currently in production model, going into it knowing I need parts readily available. if not, I’ll be paying the difference in high priced parts or have to redo the whole thing every model change.
It’s nice to get to know your machine and just have a reliable setup instead of changing models all the time. i did that too. I genuinely believe the P5000 and P6000 are the best machines I’ve ever used. I’m sure the even higher up models would be just as good or better. Well designed and quality built.
I’ve made tens of thousands of prints with a slightly modified P5000/p6000before it required anything more than a damper change with basic daily routines. Can’t say that about any other model: p400,p600,p800,xp15000,R2000,R2400,c88,R3000, xp600 machines, I mean the list goes on.
I’ve never felt good about buying a new printhead, except for the P5000 machine, that’s how good it has been.
If the 4800 is anything like it, I’m sure you’ll love it.
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15 hours ago, printerjet said:
float stepperFactor =
That’s the part you have to test and figure out for your machine.
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7 hours ago, printerjet said:
hello friends good afternoon. in the flatbad code made by open dtg where do you adjust the encoder disk reading? There are some printers that have more resolution, others less.. one works differently from the other. examples like l1800 and l805 the PE signal timing are differentIt's called the stepper factor in the code. You can adjust the stepper factor, PE and ASF signals in the code for your specific machine.
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7 hours ago, Sandor said:
Where can we buy this adapter
Hi, Adapter wasn't for sale. I made it with Tinkercad and resin printed it. If you do that yourself, be sure not to use water washable resin for obvious reasons.
I copied the original cartridge with a caliper and found the aftermarket carts ( back then) were insufficient in sealing properly. I was going to add a small square sponge in that cavity at the bottom of the adapter to mimic the original function, which I would pull from the oem carts and cut them to size.
The aftermarket carts that I purchased( multiple sets from various suppliers) were not sealing very well to the original gasket. The original cartridges sealed perfectly, so I copied those. It should only take a couple hours to replicate and a few more hours to test fitment.
I have moved onto bigger and faster machines and I didn't keep the project on file so I no longer have it available. I currently use the P5000/P6000 machines with adapters for the damper assembly for the white ink and circulation system made from the same resin. They haven't failed in over 4 months with much thinner passageways and have helped tremendously, so I fully believe this one would have worked perfectly as well.
Another user suggested taking the inline dampers ( sold on ali-express for about 0.35 each) and just pressing them into the air hole in the cartridges and sealing with silicone/super glue for the same effect. Me personally, I don't think this would stop the leaking at the base 100%, but would almost completely eliminate it due to the vacuum of the damper.
For the price of 3 xp-15000 printers you can have twice the print speed, built in vacuum tray and cutter and mythical reliability from the printheads, including recovering clogs. After you go through a couple of the 15000s you'll have wished you went a different route. Most people do unless strictly small scale use, at which point it would be cheaper/easier to just buy the transfers from someone local. It's one of those starter machines to dip your toes in the water of DTF printing, not something you really stick to to build a business around without serious modification, in which case the print speed alone can justify a different machine.
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17 hours ago, AYIRAapparel said:
Elliot,
Have you converted your DTG to DTF?
The P600 DTG can work for DTF flatbed printing, however it's not very efficient and will require a lot of hands on to keep it going especially with the stock ink system. Not to be the bad guy but in general the DTG era is close to being over with support for these printers basically non-existent now. Discontinued by Epson and every other brand has moved onto DTF, it would likely be best to sell the kit and move onto a DTF machine. If it's new, it would be great for a UV printer conversion, or UV DTF. That 2 year gap there from purchasing the machine to trying to set it up kind of missed the window of opportunity.
I had four of them, they were a huge pain- I mean seriously- but I stuck with them because I had to. Everyday I was fixing one, hence why I had four. Switching to DTF has supercharged our business and has given me so much more time I would never go back, even on the consumer level they are receiving a better quality product with DTF. The only exception is CMYK only ink printing with DTG, but even still hardly worth it compared to going with sublimation.
It's not the DIY conversion versions, all of them are like this. DTF will be the same as well with the white ink unless you get a good system and not a conversion, or make a good ink system for the conversion printer. Most of the DTG machines did not have this. Me personally I just purchased a cheaper CMYK only DTG machine ( Roland) for CMYK only prints on light garments and use DTF for everything else. Not a single complaint.
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7 hours ago, Chrissyj30 said:
Thank you for taking the time to help me:) I replaced a relay switch on my mini and it is just not working correctly now. I did buy this second hand and I have no clue what the other settings are. My husband did some button smashing so we aren’t sure if we changed some settings🤷🏼♀️ clueless. It has worked great for a few months. Not sure if would call an appliance repair perdon? Any insight would be helpful:)
That is a popular controller, just reset it to factory default. should be documentation online.
most relays have a signal light to show its activated.
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7 hours ago, Vfreaks said:
Thank you again for the information you provided... So what are the procedures to be done to convert the p5000 model printer to a dtf printer? Do any hardware changes need to be made?
The P5000 as-is out of the box, if used everyday, cleaned and ink shaken properly can give you 2-3 months of solid rather stress free use. After that, you have to remove the dampers and clean/replace them and flush the white white ink system. I used empty carts and an ink pump to pump water/cleaner in the cartridge through the air vent when installed. Catch the dirty cleaner from the damper side connection until it flows clean. Put it all back, it’ll work another 2-3 months until you need to do it again.
modification will make your life easier if done from the beginning, but it’s hard to know what you should do until you see it’s faults first hand.The printer does not like aftermarket dampers in any form, so that can get expensive at $15 an oem damper. I printed a Jig to flush and backflush OEM dampers. Works perfect. I have extra OEM dampers, new, in the event they wear out. So far, none have. I do have a set pre flushed/cleaned for faster swapping. Takes me about 5 minutes to swap the whole set of dampers start to finish when needed without any mess.
I chose to stick with the OEM damper assembly, instead of removing it and using aftermarket dampers. Again, it doesn’t like aftermarket dampers. Instead I printed an adapter and continue to use the OEM setup for cmyk, and use the adapter I made to inject the white ink from an auto circulation/mixing system into the oem damper.
I get 1-3 months usually on the oem dampers before they need flushed. I run an in-line filter, and pressurize my white ink system to oem specs. All I have to do every morning is clean the wiper and do a head clean before they are good for the day.
I also use the p6000, which is very similar to the P5000, except this machine rarely needs the dampers changed/cleaned due to the angle of the printhead. It’s been working 4+ months with only cleaning the wiper/printhead face as needed. Again, same thing for the white ink on this one.
building a solid white ink system is important and worth the extra time before you get started. Ever since doing mine this way, and keeping everything clean, it’s literally been smooth sailing everyday for a very long time. I haven't had a stubborn clog or drop out in almost 6 months.
It’s insanely relieving I have a setup that just works, but I had to make those mistakes to get here. I’ve been printing over 600 transfers a day this whole time without a hiccup from the printers at all.
but that’s me, my environment, and my custom made parts. Yours will be different.
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9 hours ago, Vfreaks said:
Thank you bro. I'll be honest with you. I moved to Germany and just got married. With great hope, my l1800 device, which i bought with a great hope, printed very well at first. I also turned this into an opportunity and stocked 300 dtf prints. However, i had a great misfortune. Because the white paint i used was defective. After 2 or 3 washes, i realized that the print on the T-shirt was cracked. This problem was most likely the paint i used. Anyway. This process i went through took 3 months in total and my loss is 2 thousand euros. This is equivalent to 1 month's salary. But I don't want to give up. Nowadays i want to buy a dtf printer that won't let me down. And i have to say that i only have one shot at it. I have to make a very good decision, so i am open to any advice you can give me.
As a result; I'll stock up on prints every day with my dtf printer. I'll change the dampers of the printer every 2 months. Other than that, do you think there's anything else i can do?And I have an extra favor to ask you. Can you tell me the brand of paint and powder you use?
No problem, I hope it helps in some way.
I have never heard of cracking DTF prints, but failures after washing could be multiple things, including the ink, powder, curing and application.
Unfortunately that is just how it goes, we all have to learn from our mistakes, which comes at a cost. Buying 300 12" X 12" transfers outright would cost you under 1000 euros delivered. However, if you are able to figure out what happened and why the machine failed, maybe it will help in future progression.
There isn't a DTF printer that won't let you down, not exactly. It's more/less your experience in keeping it in tip top shape and how to quickly diagnose and repair the issues without doing things that ultimately break the machine. someone could take the cheapest and most expensive DTF printer on the market and both would break pretty quickly without the knowledge to run and maintain them properly. I hope that doesn't sound like I am saying you don't know what you are doing, I am just saying it honestly requires you to make those mistakes to learn from or buying from a supplier who is financially responsible for providing you with accurate use instructions/care. That white ink is killer, mixed with the typical user response to those issues, it breaks stuff. Me personally, I have broken over 10,000 euros worth of stuff in the last 2 years.
The best printer I have used is the P5000, built in suction tray, resilient printhead and is twice as fast as the P800. Native for roll printing and offers a dedicated storage position and can clean each channel independently.
The p800 usually dies from head strikes, which a built in suction tray will fix. Bypassing the OEM white ink system on the P5000 and doing the other things I mentioned, it'll run for a long time without extra costs. But again, It is still subject the mistakes. Do one heavy clean mistaking a partially clogged damper as a nozzle clog, the suction can destroy that channel in one clean.
I understand entirely, this stuff is insanely expensive. When we started out we couldn't even buy a $100 B/W laser printer for order sheets. It's been almost 10 years day and night and I am tired to my core- just when we start to make it.
I hope you end up having it work out for you, It's tough in the beginning for sure. Depending on what happened to your first printer, I would consider looking into maybe fixing it instead of deepening the investment.
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4 hours ago, Vfreaks said:
Can you write the daily and monthly maintenance you do for P800? After a 3-month epson l1800 adventure ended badly, I want to try our luck with a p800. The information you will give me is very important because I don't want to make a mistake. Thank you in advance.
Most Epson’s ( mainly the printhead) seem to fail around 2-3 months when starting out. Usually due to the ink.
its until you learn how to keep the ink mixed, dampers changed/cleaned before there is a problem, and keeping the cap station in good shape.
the main Thing is ink, ink system(dampers), head strikes.
get that down on any printer and it’ll last seemingly forever.
I have a machine running the original printhead, it has printed over 17,000 linear foot (50+ rolls) of transfers and still has 100% nozzles going strong for the last 12 months. That’s over a lot in transfers on a cheap conversion with a very small startup cost.
Yes it has its down time, but I make it scheduled to keep things good before they go bad. This machine works 8 hours a day 5 days a week religiously.
I can take this same machine, brand new, and it will fail in 2-3 months ( depending on its use) due to lack of experience or noticing symptoms before they are severe. Once they are severe( when most people notice it) , your going to be replacing something expensive usually. I know because I made this mistake several times.
you basically want to replace/deep clean the dampers, waste pump, clean the face of the printhead and wiper religiously based on how you use it, BEFORE they fail or cause issues and do it the right way, not the cheap/easy way. It takes time to get it right and to learn the “pattern”.
I am thrilled because I have been running a few machines that do over 100 sq ft an hour combined and haven’t had a single issue out of any of them after finding my pattern with a small investment.
I’ve had new printheads on the shelf since their inception, which I haven’t had to use after that first failure last year, the one that i used/damaged to find my pattern with these machines.
It’s not a lost cause or wasted money, it’s experience that helps you move forward.
It’s all about persistence and learning based on your experience, not necessarily following others advice, especially without knowing the basics first hand.
you are either going to pay for the knowledge upfront from a supplier, or pay for it later with mistakes on the DIY route. Isn’t a way around that honestly. mistakes are inevitable and necessary to learn.
my maintenance and scheduling will not be the same as yours, because it’s based on the machines environment and use. There isn’t really a blanket answer to this as it’s a variable.
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45 minutes ago, cryptikz said:
Removing the star wheels didn't work for me, the print head started to rub up on the film, any help?
The output tray needs to be level. The head strike you are experiencing is from the film bubbling up under the printhead. When paired with a shaker, this doesn't happen. By sheet, the output tray has to be smooth and spot on for height, which is difficult with this machine. You can also set the printhead to print further away from the film in the settings to help prevent this.
Careful, as that is what will kill the printhead.
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8 hours ago, DTFJUNKIE said:
Like u said I think it's doing its job, but I think it's something else that's fried. I'll be looking around to see what I find. Darn shame though.
It happens, often in my experience.
process of elimination. If it flips immediately it must be a dead short, breaker could be bad too though. With all heaters off it’s still flipping immediately, I replaced the breaker on mine. But like I said I have a 220V unit with the Gfci in the breaker box, not in the unit.
I bet that 6 gauge wire was fun to run.
Surecolor P5000 DTF notes
in Epson Desktop DTF Printers
Posted · Edited by johnson4
Hi, The OEM ink system in the P5000 seems to clog/fail from the white ink sediment after about 3 months. It can be flushed out, but will need done monthly after that or else you'll run into constant issues. If you don't and you suck the white ink sludge into the printhead from the damper- that's when it gets really expensive to fix.
You also need to consider the white ink needs mixed and circulated, if not, that's quite a bit of waste every time you go to use the machine and build up in the damper. Dampers usually get filled with the white ink pigment after 2-3 months as well.
All in all, it's a learning experience and you'll make mistakes. Your question is preference based, so technically you could do either or.
Other than that, it works well.
That's my experience with the P5000 anyway.