johnson4

1 hour ago, Ichii said:

Hi, I bought epson sc p5000 but it came with violet instead of llk. Any idea how to convert back to standard from commercial so I can have LLK NOT VIOLET? Help

Is it new? 
 

you can do this with the adjustment program for the P5000 if it’s not new or has already been setup.

2 hours ago, Jeanette said:

I have an ET8500 it will print on reg. colored paper, but when I try to print on my film, nothing comes out, what am I doing wrong?

Probably not detecting the film, need more opaque film.

34 minutes ago, sem30 said:

Ah I see. So, you bought pre-made already? In our case we made our DIY UV from scratch so, the struggle is really hard, specially configuring the C code to match the movement of the encoder wheel to have a perfect outcome. My compution in my code probably is wrong that’s why I am having the stripes. In your case, I think when you bought the flat bed kit, the arduino software is perfect to match all the hardware movement. Good for you man.

I used the free adruino code here which works perfect. They use a 30 tooth pulley but it can easily be changed for whatever you have. I have tried with the encoder wheel emulator and without the emulator using the stock wheel/encoder. 

I can print on paper perfectly with stock ink. 

I assume it's a jetting issue, or something to do with the ink/LED given nothing else has changed. 

If I ever figure it out though I'll follow up with it. 

6 hours ago, sem30 said:

By the way, are you using a 30tooth pulley? In my case I am using 20, so probbably that might related to having those stripes? Maybe my computation is wrong? Idk 🫤

Me? It’s a DIY DTG machine converted to UV. It has worked reliably for thousands of flatbed prints. It prints normal without UV ink installed. 
 

I changed the ink system and add UV ink/light and that was the outcome. 

I still haven’t tested it, it’s just been sitting there. 
 

I’ll likely toss the project, I personally think it’s something with the ink. Dx7 head shows perfect nozzle checks but still does that. 

Just a follow up- 

I’ve been testing the OEM ink system for a while now and honestly- it should just be bypassed. If not, your P5000 will die within 4 months. 
 

the bypass I’ve been using for a few months has been working well, the printer head is very sensitive to the dampers you use, I mean very. I haven’t found one aftermarket damper that works with it well( they fit, just don’t work well). So I’ve been using OEM dampers and made a jig to flush/clean them as needed, with good ink about 6 months. bad/old ink- weekly to monthly. 
 

1 hour ago, treemasons said:

I understand thank you, what about this though where the lines are not vertical and just the fabrics lines? Fine on the tshirts I have done but this hoodie its a little more random and creased lines

 

 https://postimg.cc/XBjRZ5Jy

I’m not really seeing it, just the fabric lines. It does look like little bubbles though which is bad. Not enough adhesive, or pressure, or heat, or time. If it’s thinner than 1-2mm before pressing then probably too little adhesive. 
 

hoodies usually need more adhesive, they are thicker so they also need more heat or longer time. 
 

20 hours ago, treemasons said:

Plus I mean DTF sorry not DTG.

You should see the lines in the shirt in the transfer, that's normal. If you don't, you probably didn't press hard enough. If you kinda see them and kinda don't in some spots, your pressure is likely uneven when applying the transfer. The more pressure, generally the softer/more embedded it will be- given the transfer isn't adhesive heavy. 

3 hours ago, Art6 said:

Hello,

Would you mind sharing the process to disable the oem ink pressure pump on the P5000 without triggering a printer error?

Thank you in advance.

 

Just cut and clamp the tube. For one or both sides. Both are right there when you open the top lid. No disassembly required. Easy peazy. 

2 hours ago, XZilla said:

Yeah, it jams the same way both with paper and film from the rear feed tray. But works with paper from the bottom tray. Something definately seems defective to me. Probably not worth tearing into the gearing, ect, given I might still have a shot with the warranty. I was just hoping I might be missing something simple that would avoid that risk.

It happens sometimes, It's always best to test the printer before converting it, especially a refurb. Could be something small/simple, I just wouldn't have any advice as I never experienced this unfortunately. 

10 hours ago, XZilla said:

Update: Upon further inspection the rear tray roller is not running in reverse when the paper retracts. Still a mystery as to why or why it would seems to prime so much paper length.

The only reason I know is the film isn’t being detected properly. 
 

Over the years I have found that every Epson printer is different in this way, for example I can have 5 p400’s- 2 of them won’t detect film properly- 3 will 2 won’t. Same for all of them I’ve tried. It’s like the Paper sensors have variations. 
 

It’s also possible it’s just defective, did you print with regular paper to test it first? 
 

generally the best route is the rear feed tray, I honestly never used any of them with cassette feeding, they have enough trouble from the rear tray long term. 
 

good luck! 

10 hours ago, sem30 said:

It has it, use the Partner Rip Version 9.0.3. This is the one that I am using. See my attached files for the sample print.

That looks really good. I still haven’t found the version I have somewhere so yet to test. 

9 hours ago, sem30 said:

Sure, happy printing! 😀

Version 9 doesn’t have the channel color settings does it? 

43 minutes ago, sem30 said:

Yes, in my case it was fixed. I was surprised! It's like am printing using a DTF ink. Mee too was using Acro 10.5, I think it was 10.5 not 10.3 as per my previous comment but with version 9, at least in my case it was fixed. I was printing with 1440x790 resolutions for WH and YKCM.

 

Let me know if it works for you, I can attach pictures of my print later because am outside.

Shoot, I was printing at 1440X2880 and it still did it. 

I will try acro 9, I have to see if I have it or if I can find it and I will follow up. 

Thanks for the tip!

1 hour ago, sem30 said:

Am glad am not the only one experiencing this but I had the work around just last night when I tried to use Acrorip Ver 9~. Since I am using Acrorip DTF Pro 10.3, I've switched to version 9~ and poof! Perfect print without the horizontal lines. I was happy it's not because of the ink, or the type of ink (hard or soft), or even the LED light but it was all related to the RIP software. You must try that if you have a version 9~ RIP and please come back here and let me know what happened in your case?

Really? Version 9 fixed the issue? 

I was using Acro 10.5 and EKprint, both did the same. I will have to try Acro 9. 

15 hours ago, sem30 said:

Hello guys, am seeking help on my print. Recently I made a DIY UV printer out from Epson Artisan 1430 and use the same UV light from China and Hard-ink type from China as well. The printer was able to print but if you'll notice the print quality (Ironman helmet), the print layers or horizontal lines are visible. I am using Acrorip 10.5 version to print it. Then I made another DIY UV printer out of Epson 1400 and used a Soft-ink UV curable ink type and the result is the same, the print horizontal lines are visible and there are ink residue on my print. Please refer to the PVC card. I am getting out of reasons why I am getting this kind of print quality? Is the visible horizontal lines are normal? I am not sure also if these things are related to UV light, ink, or the Acrorip software that I am using?

 

Soft UV: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32726593740.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.63.53ee1ecd7ppFn5&algo_pvid=ed61b138-fef6-44e1-8a2d-e4ccc906c0f2&algo_exp_id=ed61b138-fef6-44e1-8a2d-e4ccc906c0f2-31&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000017895861779"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!JPY!11363.0!9659.0!!!!!%40211be54b16777238742228663d06eb!12000017895861779!sea!JP!777119617&curPageLogUid=JdlKUh6Rnedn

UV light: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004915701528.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.1b79628cwGis2G&algo_pvid=e4c15433-2f5d-4ecc-a344-3eff3525c2fb&algo_exp_id=e4c15433-2f5d-4ecc-a344-3eff3525c2fb-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000031005611124"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!JPY!13798.0!13108.0!!!!!%40211beca116777276815136894d0703!12000031005611124!sea!JP!777119617&curPageLogUid=2IEad6nJ4k0u

 

The heads are clean and no problem with nozzle check.

 

I would appreciate any of your inputs guys. Thank you very much.

 

 

 

I have this exact same issue on a P600/P800 unit. I still haven't found out why. Perfect nozzle checks. i have bene calling them " ridges" because it's like raised bumps instead of missing lines, but it's the same thing. I have a very similar if not the same curing lamp. I think the lamp may be too powerful, but also ran the lamp as low as it would go without shutting off entirely and it does the same. Print without the lamp- prints fine. 

3 hours ago, blitz091991 said:

I’ve used acrorip 10.5.2 (Dtg pro rip version ) 

and I’ve tried a trail version of cadilink 

I haven't experienced it, sorry.

26 minutes ago, N1k088 said:

Has anyone been able to install the dampers on the xp 15000 or find a way to prevent the 031006 error from happening ?

There are some manifolds out there said to fit the printhead that makes dampers fit it. 

I had 031006 occur with 0 leaking around the 3 month mark. As well, I had sealed the flat cable connectors with silicone so I know there wasn't any ink touching anything.. I verified this when I took it apart. 

It seems to happen to every one of them I have used, and to most after a few months. It's one reason I consider this machine disposable based on it's cost. For $400, Getting 3-6 months use out of it is a steal. 

I found no evidence that the error code occured due to liquid getting to any electrical components, nothing I could find indicated this. I am not sure why it happens, but I think maybe it wicks up the side of the printhead ( the face of it) and touches the internal electronics during wiping. Every other printhead I have seen is " taller" here, this one is super short between the head face and the top of the printhead. 

8 hours ago, anum11 said:

You can try a few profiles in acro. It may help.

I can profile it, usually that’s what I do after I get the ink settings good. 
 

I just haven’t had time to mess with it just yet, I’ll update when I do.

52 minutes ago, ryanmoroz said:

So I've been trying to find a used compatible printer for DTF conversion. Picked up a basically free R3000 locally but they say it hasn't been used in ~8 years. Inks are def dried up, or so I would assume. 

 

Before I go spending 400 on parts to make this work, I was hoping to clean and test it. Any advice on how to test this printer without spending the cash on the dtf? Cleaning advice? 

You should replace the dampers. While you are doing that, take a syringe and hose and flush the ink bay. 
 

it might not make sense but once you remove the printhead cover you remove the damper assy. From there get a cup and paper towels and push the printhead over and disconnect the hose line to the dampers. Ink spills out. 
 

then remove the ink cartridges, use the syringe/hose and put it on the ink nipple. Flush it with warm water until it comes out clear. Reinstall the new dampers. 
 

Do a few ink charges or several cleanings. Clean the capping station really well and wet cap with cleaner for 5-10 minutes. 
 

do another heat clean and do a nozzle check on an inkjet transparency. 
 

should be good to go. 
 

about $40 in total, 2 hours worth of work.

while the R3000 works, it really isn’t an ideal DTF printer. The stock ink system sucks so if you don’t use it a lot everyday, you’ll end up fighting it over half the time you do try to print. That is, of course if you don’t replace the stock ink system.

3 hours ago, anum11 said:

it is because of icc profile. Try it with other profiles if you are printing with acrorip. it changes colors and printing.

also you can try adjustment program, vertical adjustments. This may help too.

The ICC is turned off in acrorip. I also printed from EKprint with same results. 

I am trying unidirectional, 1440x1440 up to 2880x1440. Single pass and dual pass. I’ve tried overloading the ink as well as too ink little.  Wave function on or off, no difference. 
 

The machine worked fine before the conversion with DTG ink. All I did was replace the ink system and am getting perfect nozzle checks. 
 

The person I bought the conversion supplies from suggested moving the LED to allow more time for the ink to “blend” which if it helped, was very little. 
 

I will try these solutions, hopefully it works. 
 

in my head and experience with water based inks ( which may not apply here) i feel like it’s an ink jetting issue. They are cheap Chinese inks, I think it was $8.50 for 250ML of each color per bottle. 

afterall I am just testing the process before investing in it. Right now it’s “cool” but they are not very durable and can be pretty easily scratched off with a fingernail if you try hard enough. 

I ordered a new white ink from a US supplier and will flush the white ink and test again with white only to see if it’s doing it still with the white. 
 

I will say with the LED off, while it pools the ink a bit, I do not see the “ridges” in the prints. Maybe because it’s pooling and covering them up, I’m not sure. I am using a 60W LED. 
 

Thanks.

11 hours ago, johnson4 said:

Been messing around with it. I have “ridges”  or raised lines in my ink when it’s cured, when it’s not cured no issue. 
 

other than that seems to work well, for solid blocky designs. Intricate designs not so much- at least from a first timer. 

Not really understanding this issue, nozzle checks are fine( perfect). Does this no matter the resolution or if it’s single/double pass. Wave function on or off- same

Unidirectional or bidirectional- same. 
 

ink issue? 

if I don’t cure the ink( led off), it doesn’t do this, at least for the white. 
 

this is with new dampers and such. 
 

do you have experience with UV printing? 

On 7/30/2021 at 8:20 AM, anum11 said:

Hi, i seven some UV printers, print on dtf then use another PVC on print. Then you can just apply it by hand on anywhere.

Does anyone know science of this? Does it need special dtf film?

Been messing around with it. I have “ridges”  or raised lines in my ink when it’s cured, when it’s not cured no issue. 
 

other than that seems to work well, for solid blocky designs. Intricate designs not so much- at least from a first timer. 

On 2/2/2023 at 5:38 PM, johnson4 said:

It is. The F2100 is built from the same bones as the P5000. 
 

I guess it depends on what you are after. I am after 24” print width. If you are not, I don’t see the benefit. The p6000 does require a bit more modification than the p5000. The P6000 having unlimited ARC chips with the p5000 needing them reset with a resetter. 
 

overall its the same technology in all three machines. If you don’t need the print width, then the P5000 is the best in my opinion. 
 

for the 6000, I just started with it, haven’t printed with it yet. The 6000 can produce more prints per hour based on what I know so far. 23 11”x11” an hour on the p5000. In theory the P6000 will do 40+ 11”x11” an hour. 
 

so we’ll see, just waiting for the shaker. 
 

this will be my last model Epson conversion that I do. (The P6000). 
 

I think all said and done cost wise, you’ll be in the P5000 about $2,300 print ready, the P6000 about $2,600. That includes everything but the ink, film, and RIP. 

The P6000 does 15 12”x24” an hour, or 30 12”x12” an hour hands on testing. The printhead pass is slower than anticipated so not a huge increase over the P5000 at 21 12”x12” an hour. 

10 minutes ago, Techyrod said:

Man you Rock!!!!!!! Best news I’ve seen!!! Thanks ordered and will post updates 

No problem, i hope it all Works out as intended