johnson4

I Forgot the list: For EKprint they support: Supports C88/WF7010/1100/T60/P50/R230/R800/L805/L1300/L1800/R1290/R1390/R1400/XP15000/R1800/R1900/P400/P600/P800 based DTG/DTF printers · Supports R2000/R2100/R2200/R2400/R2880/R3000/R3800/R3880/R4800/R4880/R4900/R4910/R7600/R7800/R7880/R9600/R9800/R9880 based DTG/DTF printers For Kothari that Andy sells: P600- P800-P400-L1800. I know more exist, That would be a question from someone else for a full list. For AcroRip it just says " most are supported". Now that list is just for the RIP software, It doesn't mean that you can find the printer anymore, or that it will work for DTF or DTG specifically. The printer mainly supported by OPENDTG would be the P600, since it is the most cost efficient, and best choice for DTG. I'd imagine same goes for DTF. Having thousands of people using the P600 for DTG, Almost every issue/error has been well documented and it will be easy on you. The printer is a workhorse. While I haven't had any problems with the P800 DTG I have, It is slower but features the same printhead. The main difference is the print size, and OEM cartridge size. You will find almost every printer offers different pros and cons for aftermarket use. If you decide to go buy an Epson 7710 or something for example and try to DTF with it and run into problems, You probably won't get any support, since no one has experience with it.

I have mine exactly like the DTG printers. If you look at Andy's listing photo, He has his CMYK+WWWW The last one is just filled with a light cleaning solution or distilled water. It's only used when the printer does an ink charge. I use Distilled water. Don't want that damper switch going bad or drying out- or serious head clogs because of air getting in there with an ink charge when the printer purges matte black. I however Am not sure what Andy recommends being placed in there with DTF inks. I'd imagine cleaning solution.

The p800 is an older model, right there with the P600 and the newer but still discontinued( I think) P400. The main issue is someone making the printer usable for anything other than OEM ink. You need a way to use aftermarket inks. Epson locks their printers to their ink cartridges, especially these newer models. After a reliable chipless solution comes out, OR ARC ( Auto reset chips) come out for that specific printer model, then it's practically useless to use. You would have to buy a new OEM epson ink cartridge to harvest only the ink chip from to use aftermarket inks. Same kinda goes for the rip. Company's probably won't dedicate the time modifying software to work with the new printer without chipless ink, since no one ( or next to no one) would use it. It's not really necessary with OEM ink. Even when chipless comes out, the software provider would still need to see a return on investment on offering their software to work with another printer, so I'd imagine it would have to be a " group" type of thing to get a new RIP for a new printer. Basically, When the printer is ready for market, and it's being used and the programs/chipless are sought after, Then they are produced.

That would be a stepper driver, which wouldn't prevent the unit from powering on, given it didn't damage the new equipment being shorted out.

Swapping the inks and making your printhead really close to the transfer paper should do the trick. I haven't any experience with how well the white works in terms of longtivity and maintenance compared to DTG ink. I'd assume it would take less maintenance and be more forgiving given DTF printers don't allow access to the bottom of the printhead. But I really don't know.

I have no knowledge on the product. You could always buy it and try it. However, I know DTF and plastisol transfers are two different things. Unless it's a product directly marketed for printing with an inkjet printer and specifies the ink needed to work with it, I would assume it's screenprinted onto the transfer. If so, It won't have the coating needed for DTF. Either way, if it was the same, how would that benefit over what is currently offered?

Yes, You need a RIP program. EKprint is $350, Acrorip is like $15 on ebay. Kothari is $1,000. Other programs are available, I do not recommend acrorip if you plan to take it seriously. Basically, You get what you put into it.

Yes, You are flushing out the ink system, To put in new ink.You use a RIP software to use the printer. You assign the new colors in the printer ( CMYK+WWWW) via the RIP. The cartridges, and printer still think it's OEM.

Hi, let me start with, I've been in the game for about 6 years now in total. I have used basically every method available, and tried everything since. From the photo's, this film absolutely looks just like film that I have used before, and still had some of. But it's not. my findings from the years of " trial and error' and " trying to be cost efficient" I have learned a few things about exactly what you have asked. I have also learned, how much money I can waste and I can see how much hair I have pulled out trying to save money. In the end, each process out there has slight modifications done to it to work properly, while some may work, it's not worth the hassle to do 80 percent as good, for 80 percent of the cost. A perfect example is this film. The coating on this film, reacts to heat, and provides a release method for the ink, However, it also absorbs the carrier from the ink. Will this carrier be the exact same formula as the previous generation of similar products? Probably not. The ink is NOT the same as DTG ink, although it may look like it I can attest that it is not. The way it dries, the weight, and even it's water Resistance after it has cured( not even cured, just dried). Things I have tested in the last 2-3 days... *The ink doesn't respond the same way to air, so it's less likely to air dry *The ink carrier absorbs into porous material after a bit of time ( like thick paper) unlike DTG inks. What is left behind reminds me of ( looks exactly like) plastisol ink left on something that has since had it's carrier removed( like leaving it on a screen for a week, kind of like an oily substance around the ink, leaving the ink hardened since the carrier was wicked away since it doesn't air dry) *The cure time is less than my DTG ink. this stuff dries very quickly once a heat source is applied, Exactly like the difference in waterbased VS plastisol Screen printing. *Once printing on the film, you can see a clear difference. DTG inks carry a A LARGE amount of carrier, which bubbles off the film because it cannot absorb it. The DTF ink seems to create a thin layer without as much carrier, as if it's more dense, and again, like plastisol, It's not runny. I think the most shocking thing to me was the way the print felt. I have screen printed plastisol transfers, ( no it doesn't work, it doesn't have the coating to absorb the carrier from the ink) and printed directly for years. I cure them on a heat press, mainly due to the quality difference I get. It's smooth, not rubbery, almost like a thick waterbased ink print. Heat pressed Plastisol is about the softest thing I have ever printed, until now. This stuff feels like an UPGRADED version of a plastisol print. Probably where it gets it's name. Once I applied the DTF transfer, peeled that film from the shirt, pressed it again ( I always double press everything) and felt that print- It was amazing. I know I sound stupid, but when you have a passion for this stuff and have been doing it for years, that " Hand" really means something to you. Anyway, It is the softest print I have ever touched, not like a non-existent feel, but a very smooth, yet flexible/comfortable feel. It stretched VERY well, washed very well, and overall is one of the best methods( I'm not going to say IT IS the best method until I've used it for awhile) I have ever used in the transfer side of options. For the PET film, PET is going to be one of the best, most reliable things for any heat pressed type of thing. Look at HTV, Looks like PET to me, but I know it won't work. It's just the material of choice for the temperature range and providing a good release. If your thinking about using transfer powders for typical plastisol transfers, Don't. It's a nightmare. Like I previously stated, it's the same, but modified for it's use. The powder provided by Andy was course, like tiny grains of salt. Transfer powder for Screenprinting, is like flour. That sheet you just printed on? It absorbs that carrier. That powder? It sticks to moisture. What you get, is a HUGE mess if you use a fine powder( Just in case, Basically the sheet absorbs the carrier, the longer it sits without being powdered and cured, the larger this area that it will stick to becomes). It's possible a COURSE powder may work with it( Screen-printing powder), But I'd rather support the guy who made it happen over here, for the exact same price, without pulling out my hair. Basically, What I'm saying is, What is wrong with the current price of things? Is it worth pulling your hair out, spending late nights trying to justify purchasing something that "MIGHT" work? To me, The cost is what it is, and it's on par with DTG costs. As a previous post mentioned, I chose the more expensive route to sell my products. I actually make the same amount of money Vs screen printing though, so it equals out in the long run. I for one wanted it to be the same, Because I have an entire 800 SQ FT building filled with failed crap from the past ( that included several types of this PET film). This is one thing That WILL NOT make it out there.

At current, It's $1.25 a sheet ( 12x16 print area roughly). I've noticed it doesn't use as much ink as DTG. it will depend on the design size. From what I have purchased and used, it's around $1 for a 12x12 sheet of HTV, at its cheapest without buying in bulk, not saying that is top end stuff either. The cost would be slightly more, plus upkeep and ink waste. If your doing multiple layers of Vinyl, I'd consider it easily price matched. I would also consider in the waste associated with the excess vinyl. The powders go a long way, almost to the point where it's hard to calculate it at a cost. Factor in cutting and weeding, I personally would say it would be cheaper for sure, depending on what your time is worth. The way I see it, If your making money, your making money. The plus side, which I don't see in your original post, You will be able to print anything, like images not just layered vinyl. The downside, would be the lack of anything other than CMYK ( glitter, gold, silver, etc). I know I went from screen-printing, where I made my own screen for $2-$3, and made over 1,000 prints on it using around $70 in ink before tossing the screen. 1,000 X $15= $15,000 from $72 plus fabrics to DTG. DTG isn't even comparable in costs, sometimes up to $2 a print, plus fabric and waste/maintenance. It's more expensive, BUT it works for me. I can also still screen-print the larger orders. My point is, Comparing apples to oranges on the price point is hard to do without weighing the pro's and con's of each. Although I chose the expensive method for myself, It has made my life much easier. Don't forget the learning curve though

Interesting for sure, thank you.

Thanks, I used the P800 because I couldn’t find any P600’s, so I’m not sure, Andy probably does though. Basically you just need to support the paper, Whatever the height difference is between the output roller to the top of the tray, give yourself enough room for it to eject though. Personally I used a 1/2 piece of wood( it’s not actually 1/2, and it doesn’t fit perfect), Which is supported by the output tray. It’s all I had in arms reach to get to printing.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I’ll admit, I shocked myself. I do plan on sharing some more, and on different substrates as soon as I can. i think I understand now why they call it Plastisol though, the final print feels like a super smooth plastisol. that elephant in the photo is usually printed on white garments, the “ dots” and detail get lost with DTG to some degree, at least for me. The DTF picked up and kept 95% of that detail though, I didn’t expect that. so far I only really have maybe 3 hours of time spent on the actual printing part, but I feel like I’ll probably end up recommending/keeping it depending on my wash tests.

Yea, the film is super thin, so that downward angle makes it bow in the center, which happens to be at the printhead as Andy stated. It’s supported by the feeding roller right before the printhead, and the “ pizza wheels” ( I call tell them that because of the way they look, the photo community also calls it that) support it after, until you remove them.

Hot peel wouldn’t be possible, the polymer needs to cool to stick to the substrate. in my opinion, it’s softer and smoother than MY normal dtg prints with a white under base. It’s comparable to a heat pressed plastisol print ( not belt dried, those are a bit rough)

I’m still working on the ink settings in EK. I only put two white ink in the P800 for the time being. one thing to note, at least from my speculation, both the transfer film and the powder need to be in a sealed container, kept away from high humidity. aside from that, I love the feel of the prints, and the resolution is nice too. I think the biggest things with this, would be ink settings, and dealing with the powder. The final print isn’t glossy like you would imagine.

Thanks, It's fine I still have quite a bit left. Plus the other stuff I have is working the exact same way so no worries.

I’ve printed two and they look good. I actually like the hand feel, very soft. Andy, what time/temperature/pressure did you use on the heat press, and did you hot peel or cold peel? On a side note, be careful when opening the powder. The zip lock bag was taped folded over, when you pull that tape off so you can open it, it definitely rips a hole in the bag, that was fun

Hey, as long as it helps that's awesome. If I am good at one thing, It's researching and giving long winded responses. It looks like it should work, that base shouldn't have very heavy power requirements. I hope you get it figured out.

Yea, thats what I thought would happen too. I'm assuming your using DTF inks, The DTG inks won't work, for sure. Just bring it down, Or start lower and work your way up. Each printer ends up being a bit different anyway.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Switching-Power-Supply-12V-5A-5V-24v-20A-bar-top-game-machine-parts-led/113683254194?hash=item1a780ccbb2:g:vAcAAOSwCA5ch8VJ

Depending on where you live, the power going into this power supply should match what comes out of L and N, in AC voltage from your wall. Then, the rest should match the corresponding readings listed on the power supply in DC voltage. If all of them are the same, and the input is correct, I'd assume to replace it. I have never used an analog meter, but it looks like your maybe getting around 9V out of all of them, which- obviously isn't right. personally, I would document very well the location of all the wires, then disconnect the power supply and bench test it with nothing hooked to it, Or you could just replace it. When a power supply goes, sometimes it takes other electronics with it, especially if its putting out a solid voltage across all the terminals going above/below the attached boards requirements. However, this shouldn't affect the Epson board from functioning if it is indeed receiving the correct voltage, unless a short resides somewhere. Good luck!

So, I received the stuff. The ink is for sure different, as well as the film coating.

It was recommended to me to start off with your standard DTG settings, If you have those then tweak from that point.

Thanks, I had planned to use Kothari originally, But I can't find any P600's for sale anywhere under $1400 and don't want to sacrifice my only spare, just in case. so I ended up needing to use one of the P800's. By the way, If anyone intends on using a P800, removing the " pizza wheels" requires no tear down. Just a flat head screwdriver and about 2 minutes to pop them off, Which i'm not certain is even necessary if you use the front loading function.