johnson4

Was it a used printer? if so get some alcohol, and wipe down ( without leaving lint) the paper feed roller with the alcohol. I just select “ paper feed path cleaning” and hold it there as it spins around. Alcohol pads would probably work too. let it air dry, try again.

Right, that’s about all the information I know about it. Good luck with it.

It’s in the video Andy posted when it first came out, I forget the brand on the bottle. I know it said they supplied ink to hobbyprint as a distributor.

Absolutely , it’s advertised to be a DTG/DTF dual use ink from the places in India. I know I like it better than DTG inks, I just have to get there in testing. if someone did that, ( completely possible) I doubt they would tell since it gives them profit, and a part of the industry market. I know the manufacturer website for it is pretty useless, and I can’t find a MSDS in the stuff.

That’s why I posted how it is different , I hope it helps some. it’s weird because it’s thin like dtg Ink, but doesn’t have the same flow characteristics. When filling carts with it, it seems to be as thin as dtg ink, but when it starts coming out of the syringe it’s slightly more resistive. the only places I have found anything like it is in India, and I had to use google in that area to find that. The powder is the same as plastisol transfer powder, just a courser powder so it doesn’t stick all over the film.

I also know not any type of pet film will work, I have tons of pet film for various methods and they all don’t work with it, at all. The coating on each of them is different, from the products I have tried. Most of them don’t release the ink, and bleed like crazy.

Very interesting question, I’m sure quite a few people would love the answer also. when I look up latex inks, all I find is it being used on hard substrates for signage and such, but who knows. do you have latex inkjet ink available to you? the DTF ink is very, “marshmallow” feeling compared to DTG ink, if that helps at all. It also doesn’t really air dry( both cmyk and white), It stays wet until you cure it for the most part. in a 70 degree room at 55 percent humidity for a week it’s still completely wet, Unless it’s on a piece of paper or something that pulls the carrier away. DTG inks, both color and white, don’t do this, they dry out pretty quickly leaving a rubberish layer you can peel off. if I dip my finger in dtg ink and wash it off with tap water, it washes away completely. DTF ink doesn’t, it leaves behind the color, which seems to repel the water like an oil. I end up having the scrub it off with a paper towel, like a plastisol ink would do. I don’t know how latex reacts. DTG white inks leaves behind a kind of “rough” feeling when cured, where the DTF ink is very soft and plastisol feeling. Just like normal screen printing ink hand feel comparisons. that’s basically all I know about it, maybe it helps maybe it doesn’t. I doubt anyone will outright give you a direct answer, unless it’s only speculation. The ink may be proprietary, it may not be. If your in the same country as hobbyprint, you’ll probably be better off buying it from them, or their supplier. If not, I have no idea and genuinely wish you luck with it.

I see. I’ve personally used pigmented ink printed on transfers. While it does last in the wash for a couple washes, it doesn’t last nearly as long. Could be the transfers though, but then again, it fades with amounts of UV after a bit of time. I would also doubt the the pigmented ink would react to pre-treatment the same way, but in all of this I have no idea if it’s the media it’s printed on, or the ink itself. I do know that pigmented ink isn’t as heavy, so probably contains different binders/polymers. It’s a good point to raise, but I also feel like pigmented regular ink is completely different in its make-up. If you dry pigmented ink, it leaves behind next to nothing. The same for DTG ink, and it’s like a rubber, that, ends up being much thicker and flexible. I also feel like pigmented ink contains more alcohol, so it can dry faster instead of water. but, I have no real grounds for any of this. So if you come up with anything I’d be happy to test it also.

Looking at Several MSDS sheets from different manufacturers do confirm that while most inks have a similar make-up, as you have described. For example, Dupont black: Water Aliphatic Alcohol *Ethylene Glycol Polyglycol Ether Polymers Melamine Carbon Black Pigment 7732-18-5 ** 107-21-1 ** ** ** 1333-86-4 50-94 1-10 1-10 1-10 1-10 1-5 1-5 VS dupont White: Water *Ethylene Glycol Humectant Titanium Dioxide Pigment Polymer 7732-18-5 107-21-1 ** 13463-67-7 ** 49-79 10-20 1-10 5-15 5-15 However, Unavailable to me is the MSDS for the DTF inks. It would be nice to know the direct comparison between them, Very interesting indeed. I however, Do not recommend blending products without knowing what will happen first in any scenario before recommending doing so. Overall though, It seems the cleaning solutions would remain to work the same, I wonder why the ink responds the way it does to water for me. Thanks for bringing this information up, I'm in for some reading for sure!

The ink overall is different, and honestly, the DTF inks clog less, so in my opinion that aspect is irrelevant. I would also imagine that there is more than just the coloring agent, and carrier, such as a “base” that is pigmented. Both inks respond differently to water, before and after it has dried, or the carrier removed. DTG inks do not work on the film, where the DTF does. DTG separates, pools, and overall doesn’t work at all, while DTF inks seem to have less “ carrier” and offer a different type of bond. Both inks cure differently, and offer a different “ hand feel”. in any degree they are different including the carrier and base, probably not the pigment. Mixing two formulations based on the speculation of the same type of pigment, or coloring agent doesn’t make them universal to each other. without knowing the direct formulation to both inks, assumptions based of the coloring agents and carrier, as to which product will react to a specific element isn’t possible without testing, or knowledge of the overall makeup of the inks. for simplicity, they are not the same, and it would make no sense to mix DTG/DTF inks when the cost is the same, and the possible poor results from combining them. That and DTF appears to clog less, against your speculation. im not going to pretend I know much about it, just field use of the products and my experience of it, which comes with quite a bit of research, excluding things that do not matter to me in the real world.

If you want, yes. I don't, I use Distilled water with a bit of cleaner in it, like 10-20 percent cleaner. It does have a function, just not one that is useful. It's an ink line that runs down to the print-head as Uhim pointed out. so during an ink charge, ( which you'll do to load the ink, and periodically when you have severe clogging or flushing) it will use that ink line, and anytime you accidentally use matte black in the printer driver or whatever it will push whatever it is in that channel through the print-head, mixing with whatever is in there from the PK line( white ink). Some people use Distilled water, Some use cleaner, some use a mix of both. It's really up to you and an opinion at that point. THIS IS MY OPINION AND PROBABLY DOESN'T MATTER, ANYTHING TO AVOID ISSUES IS A PLUS TO ME: I use both because I don't want the distilled water to only carry away the ink carrier, leaving ink behind that can clog. Since both inks cure water-proof, that indicates the pigment/base( the colored part) isn't water soluble, just a suspension in the water-soluble ink carrier. I know with DTG ink the white ink "coagulates" when contacted with water as the carrier is pulled away with the water, similar to how the pre-treatment works( Pulling out the carrier leaving behind the ink suspension). DTF ink seems to do the same, minus the coagulating, it seems to repel the water actually so it may not matter. I still used the same method just-in-case. I plan on trying the DTF ink as DTG ink eventually, I don't have enough to load another printer with, so I have no reasoning for it with DTF.

That's weird, did you turn of paper width check and all that off on the printer itself? It will display wrong media from the front, You'll need to load it regular. Might be a way to make that work, but I didn't try after that.

I just loaded mine like normal paper, Selected Sheet in EK-print with the proper size, turned off the Skew check, Paper width check and printed.

IF I remember right, back in the day when I first set-up, I had to change the cartridge order in my printer. I think that is why my printer is still currently set-up as YMCK+WWWW. I could be wrong, I honestly don't really remember. I do know that I had to change my carts around for Acro.

I really have no idea. My experience comes from the products in the US. Realistically, Any cleaner designed for Textile ink should work fine. some people use just Distilled water for the capping station. there isn't really a definitive answer for the question unfortunately, like most things, everyone has their own opinion, and use. If it says it will work, Trial and error will be your only solution in the unknown. That's what I had to do.

Well said . Mine has two buttons on the front, An image of the switch, with a proceed button after that is pressed. which I have accidently pressed before unfortunately. not intentional, i wasn't even trying to touch the printer, I was reaching behind it. Haha. That and I utilize the ink charge function sometimes, So i just keep some fluid in there. I always Err on the side of caution. These printheads, no joke cost more than most of the vehicles I have owned, especially now.

Windex and glass cleaner have no place with DTG/DTF. the idea was that the ammonia/alcohol would help unclog print-heads with PIGMENT ink. DTF/DTG inks are water-based. Cleaning solution is made to " dissolve" the ink to some degree, to allow for cleaning. Capping station fluid is basically inert, it's placed there to remove the air, so the printhead can be protected from air, since, water-based inks worst nightmare is air drying it out. IF the cap is filled, and the print-head is placed over it and sealed, it basically prevents any possibility of the inks in the print-head from drying out. Where, without the fluid, air is trapped in there, allowing the ink to potentially dry out in the head given enough time. If you used cleaner, it would slowly deteriorate the face of the printhead, until failure. the time it takes depends on how strong the cleaner is.

The matte black filled with cleaning solution is just a place keeper. If you leave it empty, then do an ink charge, or accidentally change PK/MK it then sucks air into the printhead, which is very bad with DTG ink since that opposite line {PK} on mine is white ink. Since the printer uses a switching valve for the two blacks, it makes it redundant to use both. I use a 30ML cart here, and a 80ML cart on the others for the p600, and of course the P800 retains all 80ML carts.

That is unfortunate, I did send a response to your PM, in case it does work. I have at times, Received inaccurate information from the Eukon team before, it may or may not be the case. worth a shot though. If not, that is one of the main reasons I recommend the highly supported printers so things like this don't pop up.

I used cleaning solution in my DTF printer and it seems fine. Andy did say to me at some point it works with standard DTG cleaning solution, So I would use that. Did you purchase his cleaning solution?

You could always do like I did, And add more printers, To achieve more Profit per hour as well. I don't see the hassle of buying something like that being beneficial, but it could be. I took the easy route, and just used more P600's, The added cost is trivial compared to the profit they make you, if you really need 50 a day. Cut your time in half, to 3 hours and 15 minutes ( from your original time alllowance) with two printers, and you still make the same money, but now at $230 an hour, just for investing in TWO printers instead of one. Your not only limited to one printer, Especially for the cost it is to make/buy one. I run 4 DTG printers, 1 DTF printer that I'm still getting used to, And then the screen-printing side. I by myself, cannot manage anything more than that being one "employee". I eaither run the DTG/DTF stuff, or the Screen-print stuff. I can't do both at the same time unfortunately.

I don't know where those times come from, but they are very wrong. I usually print 11x14 prints for CMYK and they take under a minute each, And for the White with 3 passes, I get them in about 2-3 minutes on DTG. Double layered printing takes the longest, at 3-4 minutes at that size. You don't need to print at the highest resolution. The p800, which is 17" takes a bit longer time to print, but hardly noticeable. I printed a 11x15 ( I think it was 15", it was a tall print that ran out of room on the paper) took about 3.5 minutes on DTF with White/color. the P600 would produce that faster. The print times for DTG VS DTF won't vary much, if at all. However, The added steps of powder and cure, Is about the same as pre-treat and cure. So, Not really a huge positive/negative to that factor. If you are using quite a bit of transfers, like 50 a day, you may want to consider DTG. If not, Even still that's around $700 in profit for 6.5 hours of printing, depending on several factors, but that is what it would end up for me. $115 an hour is worth my time

Just putting it out there, not knocking you for it because I don't know the situation around it, just being upfront about the potential cost that will add to the overall process with that printer, which obviously you are aware of. I still haven't pulled up the EK profile yet, I Should be doing that in a bit, After I process my orders for the day and get that out of the way, I can report back with the EK-print settings I used for the channels if necessary.

No that isn't right. MK/PK is a switching color, so both MK and PK will never be used at the same time. For the P800 I have it set as ( from left to right) MK will be cleaning solution, PK-LK-LLK-C would be for white ink. VM-Black LC-Cyan VLM-Magenta Y-Yellow That is how I have my P800 Setup ( the newer version of your printer) The P600 is setup the same way, the order is just backwards. So it would be ( from left to right) for the P600: Y-Yellow VLM-Magenta LC-Cyan VM-Black C-LLK-LK-PK would be white ink. At least that is how I set mine up years ago and it works fine on the P600's so I kept that arrangement at the print-head the same when I did the P800, which works fine as well. Just out of curiosity, so your going to buy OEM ink cartridges to use the printer with DTF for the chips? I personally don't know if that would be a good investment or not, but it sounds like it will get expensive, especially when it comes to doing head cleans and ink purges it really eats at those cartridges. I know when I first loaded the P800, I couldn't obtain the chipless yet, so I used refillable carts. Getting it ready to print and purged, I used like half the ink set's worth of counters on the ink. ( to be fair I've used this same set of carts on multiple p800's during setup). The p600 can be had for between $500-$1,000 still at the moment on random places in the US, if that is an option I would consider it. I don't believe there is a benifit to the larger print size since the film only comes in that 12.5" size as far as I know.

To clarify, I think this is the confusion: Standard DTG inks DO NOT work with film printing, only DTG printing. “DTF” inks work with film printing, and potentially DTG printing, however untested by me. if “DTF” inks could replace standard DTG inks, it would offer a dual use for FILM and DTG printing, as well as less clogging, becoming a superior ink. Standard DTG inks would remain only for DTG, not film printing. I think that is the issue in the confusion, one would be potentially dual use, thus your calling it DTG inks.