johnson4

do you have a flatbed version and the paper fed version? Your LED/head Photo vs your video show both. If I find the time I'd like to try my hands at a paper fed version. Your ink system looks pretty serious, very good job on the build!! Have you previously shared what that system consists of for the ink system? That was my main caveat, the need to remove the oem ink system and not really knowing what to replace it with " properly". Anyway, not trying to bum your hard earned info, Just curious because that looks well thought out.

I'm not sure, If you printed on a release paper I don't see why not. You put the powder on while the ink is wet, so the powder only sticks to the design, shake the rest off and " dry" the ink so the polymer sticks to the ink. After that, when you heat press it again, your melting the polymer and it mends with the fabric- creating a transfer. However, anytime this polymer gets heated, like in a dryer, it is possible for it to heat up to its melting point again and peel off, Unlike inks printed directly onto the fabric, which need its "carrier" or " plasticizer" to liquify it. The polymer is water-proof, it's literally like a plastic powder. I use the Plastisol release papers daily on my DTG prints, But only to cure them, not to transfer them since the DTG doesn't stick to it. I'd imagine if for DTG ink, since its more " watery" you would need the paper coated with something that will absorb it, unlike plastisol/ water based screen-printing ink. Once dry, That stuff that absorbs it needs to peel off the plastic with the design. That's how the laser transfers work too. https://www.screenprinting.com/products/transfer-adhesion-powder-plastisol-transfer-adhesive-1-lb?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=dsa&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaDKyf_S6wIVBdbACh31uAugEAAYASAAEgL8MfD_BwE

Didn't really think of that, Usually though I always go for at least 50 percent cotton on anything I print on, DTG or not so while that is a good benefit, It wouldn't really help much in my business.

It seems cool, I started out and still screen-print. I used to do transfers with the same powder, if it's the same polymer anyway. From the experience I have with it and customer feedback, it just doesn't compare to direct contact in terms of adhesion. ( plastisol transfers). Wash to wash, water based faded with the shirt fabric, usually creating a faded look as the shirt also fades(I love this). Plastisol ( directly printed) pretty much never deteriorates or changes but suffers a heavy hand and requires serious chemicals to clean. the transfers would all suffer peeling at some point, usually well before the water based shirt suffered any fading, even the one's I had purchased from other suppliers. Instead of the ink adhering itself to the fabric, now that polymer does the work, which, when heated peels off like any other heat transfer material. similar to just printing with a standard transfer. They have the self-weeding laser transfers for dark shirts, You run a clear ( like in the video) through a laser printer. Then apply a white backing sheet and heat press it and it only sticks to the parts with toner, which makes it self weeding. Then you have the stuff like Jet pro opaque, where you just print it in a regular inkjet ( pigment) and cut it out and press it on the shirt, In which I have experienced them all. Not to mention the ( probably high) extra cost for these papers/transfers. I just don't see the added benefit of it, unless you were to sell designs to people, even then the quality of all of the above methods were very poor in comparison to Direct ink to fabric contact( like any form of screen-printing directly to the fabric, as well as DTG, since it's the same principle) from my experience. Plastisol is used for many things, pretty much anything you grab with a soft rubber coating, is plastisol. Like fishing lures, the chains on my kids swingset, etc. Plastisol is just that though, a plasticizer that keeps the ink " wet" or "melted" until it is evaporated away. The stuff likes to stick together, which is why every-time you need to use it, you have to mix it well due to separation, and coagulation. If it was ever diluted enough to run through a printer, in any form, It wouldn't come close to comparing the water-based inks, Even then, I would imagine it would be much harder to ventilate, clean up and maintain. Viscosity is everything when it comes to printing. So I would agree that this is some sort of marketing " scheme" So, for me, Waterbased printing, usually lasts as long as the the shirt if it's printed correctly, it Fades and wears with it until the shirt turns into a rag. alongside the easy clean-up, and soft/no hand feel, I doubt anything will top that but surely it's possible. My " gut feeling" of this product, tells me it's just someone trying to swoop in and make a quick buck. Every product has it's place in the market for different materials and users of course. The #1 thing that these " quick money grabbers" do is make a new, better, (INSERT PRODUCT HERE) and it so happens to be unique, and proprietary. It basically works magic, Until you buy it, and try it for yourself. Then, Somehow, It's on YOU because your " inexperienced" and they push you to buy more proprietary products to help out when it doesn't work as planned. Eventually, the product will disappear, or come out with a new " upgraded" version. Like, For example, Screen-printing foil. It works, But it's not for commercial/resell use in terms of quality or durability. HOWEVER, This stuff found it's way in the DTG market, as a new means for adding that " touch" of extra that your printer just can't do. 100,000 new users buy it to try it, find out it's not for them or to " hard to master" and then throw it in the trash. Boom, Just made a quick buck off of the same ol' product, with new marketing. Don't get me wrong, It would be fantastic for new and exciting idea's to come out. New methods, Better methods, even wild unimaginable methods, like DTG would have been in the 80's when those guys slaved away at a screen press. I would be all for it, with due caution. But the truth is, most of this stuff is just another way to get into one of the largest stable markets that won't be going away Irregardless of what happens in the world to grab some cash, and live the life many of us aspire for with our racing minds trying to find that " unique" or " new" way to top the competitor. I could be wrong though, these are only speculations based from my own experiences, But I won't be betting the farm on it anytime soon.

Awesome, Chipless is always a must. So the whole OEM damper system must go, do you have a recommendation for what to use in its place? Does the head manifold and capping station do okay with it?

Is it possible to make a UV printer with the P800? I'm not necessarily looking to modify it for flatbed printing, Rather leave it as stock as possible for paper printing. The main thing that I'm still confused about is the Ink system, and what needs done with it to handle the inks. Reptile's LED's look great, So I'll probably go that route. Anyway, I know stuff is posted everywhere and this has been asked, just looking for any updated information out there. Thanks.

The head is probably okay from my understanding on it's Resistance to the type of inks. the damaged damper system would cause all that. My only thoughts would be to test print with it in another printer, or after you replace those parts. If the face is still shiny and the electronics didn't get any liquid/ink on them and the manifold looks fine its probably fine. Again, A grain of salt

By no means Do i know anything at all like most of the guys on here, But, I'm pretty sure the stock Damper system isn't set up to use UV ink, AKA, Bad stuff happens. From what I read before i put that on the back burner, You needed your own damper lines and dampers at the head that are made for the type of ink. Take my advice with a grain of salt, But it sounds like something isn't liking that ink. Good luck with it, I'm following the post, Because in a few months I'll be headed down the same path. I've taken the damper system apart before ( before i threw it away) and aside from the rubber "valves' at the manifold, and the one's in the dampers at the head( which actuate in the same manner). Its just passageways and tubing.