johnson4 Posted October 12, 2021 Posted October 12, 2021 13 hours ago, Sabrina said: Help please. I have purchased the p800 and need to convert to a dtf printer. Is there any videos of the process and any videos of the cleaning or capping station maintenance? I don't know about video's, but you remove the star wheel rollers and make an exit tray. Other than that, everything else is normal Quote
cryptikz Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 On 11/3/2020 at 6:26 AM, johnson4 said: You do not need " extended" carts. the stock 80ML work just fine, but if you want those bigger cartridges and overhang, thats up to you. If that was my only option, I wouldn't have used the printer itself. Honestly, It's very hard to use those 80ML carts up to a degree refilling is an annoyance, Specifically for DTF. You don't need a "white mixer" Just pull and shake the cartridge daily, Unless your going to redesign the entire printer ink system, and have it recirculate white ink throughout the entire ink system, its rather pointless and a waste of time/money. Just like DTG for the p600/800, you need to use the printer often with white ink, or do " ink charges" when you decide to. It's not going to be like a regular printer once you load any white ink in them. The P800 uses a pressurized ink system, so unless you remove that, and the "checks" that the printers built in firmware makes, and run your own system, I just don't see this as being an option. You can add a waste tank, personally I didn't, since it has one built in. I removed the cotton pads, and put a cover over it and notched out a " drain" on the corner so I could dump it every couple of days. 1. Not much, remove the rollers and make an output tray. 2/7. Kothari works well from what I understand, EKprint is cheaper, and for the most part works for me. I haven't tried Kothari just yet. I have never had any luck with Acro-rip for any type of good, repeatable, reliable, quick prints. 3, 4, 5, Those are the supplies you need. 6- Any heat press will do, What Andy offers is a reputable brand. buy what fits your budget, and your requirements. 7. a Belt dryer is what Andy used, You can also use a heat gun, Or a hover heat press. Depends on what you are doing. I don't see dropping the amount of money on a conveyor dryer just for DTF. It's a pretty simple process, 1.remove the " pizza wheels" make an output tray 2. remove the cotton from the waste tank 3.make the printer chipless, ( something you left out) 4. get some refillable carts. Load your ink, use a reliable RIP software, and print. Wipe the capping station down daily, with cleaning swabs, and shake your white ink carts- daily. Use a heat gun/ Heat press to cure the transfer. ( or a belt dryer). a Sifter helps with the powder, plus whatever you decide to use to do that step in. If you leave it sit for a day or two, be pre-pared to do an ink charge or several head cleans to get the white ink going again due to it's settling and separation. If you don't intend on printing with it often, it would be cheaper/easier to batch print once a week so you don't waste as much ink every other day doing cleanings. When I removed my pizza roll wheels the print head started to run up on the film. Is there any way to prevent this from happening? Everyone seems not to have this problem Quote
cryptikz Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 On 10/12/2021 at 10:34 AM, johnson4 said: I don't know about video's, but you remove the star wheel rollers and make an exit tray. Other than that, everything else is normal Removing the star wheels didn't work for me, the print head started to rub up on the film, any help? Quote
johnson4 Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 45 minutes ago, cryptikz said: Removing the star wheels didn't work for me, the print head started to rub up on the film, any help? The output tray needs to be level. The head strike you are experiencing is from the film bubbling up under the printhead. When paired with a shaker, this doesn't happen. By sheet, the output tray has to be smooth and spot on for height, which is difficult with this machine. You can also set the printhead to print further away from the film in the settings to help prevent this. Careful, as that is what will kill the printhead. Quote
JPN Posted July 19 Posted July 19 El 5/5/2023 a las 11:46, johnson4 dijo: La bandeja de salida debe estar nivelada. El golpe del cabezal que estás experimentando se debe a que la película burbujea debajo del cabezal de impresión. Cuando se combina con un agitador, esto no sucede. Por hoja, la bandeja de salida debe estar lisa ya la altura correcta, lo que es difícil con esta máquina. También puedes configurar el cabezal de impresión para que imprima más lejos de la película en la configuración para ayudar a evitar esto. Tenga cuidado, ya que esto es lo que matará el cabezal de impresión. ¿Cómo se configura el cabezal? xq estoy teniendo el problema del roce. antes no me lo hacia, al tiempo empezo a hacerlo cada tanto, ahora lo hace permanentemente. no puedo imprimir Quote
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