16 hours ago, Johnson said:

What are the requirements to be the best DTF films?

What are the bad cases of the DTF films?

1. Single / Double Coating?

2. Hot / Warm / Cold Peel?

3. How can evaluate the quantity of ink absorption?

and so on.

Thank you for your kind answer in advance.

There is no such thing. DTF film is preference based. The outcome of each type is the difference in the final transfer application and outcome. Each manufacturer has different quality standards. Every film listed can work great or terrible based on how it is produced from the manufacturer. 
 

you can evaluate this by testing all film types from your supplier. That’s the typical process to do so. They will likely vary batch to batch as well so expect that to happen. If you find a good supplier though this will be minimal. 
 

every film you have mentioned I have used good and bad versions of, it all depends in the manufacturer and your experience. Sometimes you just get a bad apple. 

10 hours ago, Jenn said:

I have a question for you about the x axis setting (in A tools print setup). My printer is printing to the far right side. What do you have yours set at? I can trial and error it but if I had a number to start at that would help. Also, I don't know how I feel about maintop it seems like a lot of work for every single print. 

Maintop is honestly a waste of time in my opinion and experience. I don’t believe it was ever intended for this type of use. 
 

Cadlink is the way to go. They’ll make you buy the $895 version though since it’s a Chinese printer if you go that route. You can print directly from Cadlink to the printer with atools, or by simply saving and opening the file in atools. The best thing about Cadlink is repeatability. 
 

As for the settings I’ll have to look. I have 4 machines running with Dedicated pc’s. One of them was used with the audley before I discontinued its use and it still has the settings I used. I’d have to find which one and see what it says. I don’t remember if it will let me without the printer connected. 
 

it’s pretty busy in the shop so I can’t promise when I can, or if you’ll find the answer elsewhere before I get to it. I don’t like messing with a unit while it’s in operation so I’d have to do it in my free time, which I haven’t had in ages haha. 

4 hours ago, Jenn said:

I can't find that menu. I seem to have a different program than the one shown in the manual. It's mostly the same but it's missing a few things. Like the two head alignment option is also missing. I went through the entire program and can't find that. Do you use the Atools for xp600 pro program?

I use Atools. I’m not sure what you mean when you say pro program, the one mine came with just says Atools. There is a password protected area with adjustments. It’s been awhile since I’ve used it so I don’t remember what’s in there. 

6 hours ago, Jenn said:

I'm just wondering if there's anything in the adjustment software to get the feed going back in the right direction. The printer is doing what it's supposed to  other than it's just feeding/stepping in the wrong direction.

Have you looked in the menu the requires a password? 

9 hours ago, Jenn said:

I did and I'm waiting to hear back from them. Thanks anyway tho I appreciate the reply. I'll get it figured out eventually.

No problem. As for the alignments and Cadlink, I just printed an image with thin lines from Cadlink and adjusted the program. 
 

when I made a perfect alignment straight from the printer then sent prints from Cadlink it would be off.  Aligning it from Cadlink took a little longer and some effort but I didn’t have an issue after that. 
 

I used maintop like once, so I’d your using that I don’t know, probably the same steps. 

15 minutes ago, Jenn said:

Thank you and I'm definitely looking at getting that shaker. I have a new problem now. I did something very stupid and did a factory reset because I wanted to start completely over with the alignment tests. Now it's printing backwards. Not mirrored but actually pulling the film into the printer towards the roll. And the head is also banging against the far side of the printer. I want to try to fix it but I don't want it to keep banging and damage something. Do Any suggestions?

Thank you and I'm definitely looking at getting that shaker. I have a new problem now. I did something very stupid and did a factory reset because I wanted to start completely over with the alignment tests. Now it's printing backwards. Not mirrored but actually pulling the film into the printer towards the roll. And the head is also banging against the far side of the printer. I want to try to fix it but I don't want it to keep banging and damage something. Do Any suggestions?

All I could say is to reach out to who you purchased it from. I have never experienced that so I have no idea. 

21 minutes ago, Jpop2110 said:

Thanks so much!  That’s what I was going to do but didn’t know how well that would work!

You’re welcome. Just go slow with the tap is all I can say. I don’t remember exactly but it’s been 6+ months with the repair so it should work. I know I left a few tap sizes to go if it happened again so I had options. Finding a replacement brush was a dead end for me. 

5 hours ago, Jpop2110 said:

Hey there!  I have one of those mini powder shakers that everyone seems to sell. The very generic one. The brush that drives the powder and attaches to the motor is bad. It appears the plastic screw holes are stripped. I’m attempting to fix it and retap it but does anyone with the knowledge of this thing know where to get a new brush for it?

 

any help would be appreciated!

Just use a tap set to retap the hole larger, go one size larger and get a matching larger set screw. Both sides need it to be tight or it will slip off the motor shaft. 
 

If you don’t know they sell M3- thru M-8 tap sets and m3-m8 bolt sets at various lengths. I think it was like $25 for both. 
 

mine had a steel insert in the center. The issue was the brush was too tight in there causing too much friction once powder was in there. I used an old pair of hair clippers and shorted the bristles a bit at a time until it operated smoothly. Hasn’t broken again yet.
 

just my DIY solution. Good luck! 

1 hour ago, Jenn said:

Nevermind I got it all together. 

Glad you got it together. 

I will say the matching shaker for this printer is very well built and one of the best one's I have seen/used under 24". 

Good luck!

4 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

I can try that but i dont have all the OEM carts available to me LLK cartridge is missing to try this i have to purchase the LLK cartridge 

Another thing is if i will run initial charge with OEM , the OEM ink will go inside the printer and all the ink system and that is what i want to avoid as i will be using it for dtf

I’m not saying you should use oem inks, I did the first time. I also didn’t on my other two and didn’t have this issue. 
 

oem inks flush out easily, I ran two ink charges with the adjustment program and all was well if you did do that. 
 

if I were you I’d try another supplier of chips. Maybe ask around see if maybe it’s An update disabling the chips. 
 

my issue was alternating chips would work, then they wouldn’t work when I added more cartridges. They never all showed X at the same time though. 

If they all always show they don’t work and it has never once asked to use “ non genuine” carts I would try new chips from a different supplier first and compare firmware versions with a known functional unit with aftermarket carts. 

4 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

Did you mean OEM carts has sensor inside them and we can just bypass the sensor and it will always read full? No need to reset chips? 

Oem cart has a sensor inside that prevents you from just resetting and using them when the ink runs out. I pulled the sensor and put it on oem chip, and used that on refillable chip. Not very economical but can work. 

3 hours ago, anum11 said:

P800 printhead is F196040. So it can be used as F196030(p600), F196020, F196010(r3000 and 3880), F196000(3800 i think).

P600 printhead F196030 can be used for below too but not for P800.

same goes for for R2000 R1900 etc. But p400 head is completely diffirent.

I agree. P800 head works in p600, but p600 head won’t work in P800 from real world use. Rest I’m unsure of. 

4 hours ago, marq said:

Thank you for your reply. After thinking about it, it is even logical. Now I also found out that the printhead is the same as on the L800/L805, so it probably works. Lucky me

Yep, can’t convert any old printer so got lucky in that for sure. 

9 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

Im installing them from initial ink charge is it ok?

The chip is from verified seller and got 2 set of t913 series 

The only difference is you are using 200ml cart and i got 80ml cart from seller maybe that was an issue about chip position maybe it was not proper connection between probes and chips pad

Huhh im frustrated now

Could be. They should be 200ML carts and chips. I have about 10 sets of chips and every now and again one won’t reset, but nothing like you are experiencing. 
 

is also possible to use OEM chips. I did at first as well to make sure if they didn’t reset the Chinese chips. 
 

Messy work, but I removed ink sensor from ink bag( old R4900 empty cart sensors will work on them too), solder to backside of oem chip and sealed the sensor with ink on it so it would always read “ full” or not empty. After first reset it says non genuine, but also worked. 
 

I did that as backup method but haven’t needed to use them for that reason. 

3 hours ago, anum11 said:

Printers usually would error if you dont make initial charge original catridges that came in package. 
 

Try to first charge with original catridge chips then change into resetable ones.

I did initial charge on 1 of mine. The others I didn’t and it worked fine. I usually sell my own ink to lower costs if it has any value. 
 

6 hours ago, marq said:

Hey!

I was just a little bored and tried to transform a Epson P50(T50). My first attempt in ever! So far so good, I have Acrorip 10 and am a little overwhelmed because the printer is not listed there. Which printer model could work then? I just tried it with the L805 and also got a relatively good result, but maybe it was just luck.

My problem: I can not print the last 2 inches. By removing the pizza wheels, the film no longer holds at the end and slides from side to side. 

Anyone a suggestion for the printer model and my other problem?

That is normal, removing the star wheels does that with sheet printing. Some users create a suction platform, but usually doesn't help. It's just the nature of the beast. Normally the star wheels would pull the last 2 inches forward with the front rollers. 

Other than that, glad it's working. 

11 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

This is what im getting 

I tried everything

First i install all the Chinese carts same error 

Then I tried all other OEM and one Chinese. In that situation if i install one Chinese on the right side all are right side cartridges are not recognizing same for left side if i install one Chinese on left side all left side cartridges are not recognizing 

Then I tried resetting chinese cartridge with resetter it goes green but no change in error 

Then i also got one extra chipset from seller so i replaced one cartridge chip but everything is same 

Anyone knows what to do in this situation?

The chip series is T913

Maybe it's an updated firmware or something preventing the use of the chips. 

I know my first one was finicky, I spent 2 days getting it to read them- after that it was fine. I also setup the printer normally with OEM carts though the first time. Printed some posters then converted it. 

Maybe you received bad chips. 

6 hours ago, Jennnifer said:

Can you share where to purchase the bulbs?

I purchase them from China. 
 

they aren’t universal and you’ll need to know the wattage, voltage, diameter, length and style. 
 

Usually they have “ around a bout” similar bulbs. If you want exact usually you’ll have to have them made. 
 

Usually best thing to do is reach out to the people you purchased your device from. 
 

my statement above on the wattage was also incorrect. My bulbs were 400W. I misunderstood the way the 110/220V converters worked initially. 

55 minutes ago, josualo said:

yo he tenido 4 r2400 con dtf y me ha dado muy buenos resultados el problema que tengo ahora que los cabezales están descatalogados por lo que estoy mirando como puedo usarlas pero no encontré nada todavía, había leído que se pueden poner unas placas para poder usar cabezales dx5 de  su hermanas mayores pero no se que tal funcioan..

I’m not aware of any, they only have “adapters” for different versions of the dx5 which has been discontinued for some time so any variation you need will be very expensive. If your talking about replacing the nozzle plate, I’ve never found anyone successfully doing that long term. 
 

Sorry, I just moved on and tossed all that stuff So I don’t know much about them.  I have a like new Chinese printer that uses dx5 heads going in the dumpster later next week. Too expensive with plenty of other cheaper options. 

7 hours ago, Mr.Carter said:

This damper allows you to make the gravity feed ink system so that you can keep your ink tanks above the printer and there will be no air gaps inside the pipeline

Nice job. Simple yet effective. 

1 hour ago, hurst504 said:

i was thinking about doing something like this too. it will definitely be cost effective and better coverage than using bulbs. Kinda like the mat that comes in some of the desktop dtf oven.

I’m not sure, just a standard silicone element mat. If that’s what those use, yeah. It works fine as long as you keep contact points. Film likes to bubble or “ slightly raise” as it’s heated.  

( the below is unrelated) 
 

me personally I need a shaker with extended curing like on the one I’m building. I’m looking for at least 24” of cure tunnel in length, aiming for 26” in length. This will make the fastest of printers cure time be a minimum of 3 minutes for a proper cure. I designed a lid and insert and made the body. 

but to have the insert  cut/bent in stainless would be over $150 alone plus I’d still need to weld it and then the $50 actual lid, welding and prep/ powder coat for it as well- seems like a bunch of money and work that could be avoided using the mats. I started a design with laser cut steel that was to be bent and welded for the frame but it got expensive and over complicated fast so I scratched that. 
 

you can buy linear rail dirt cheap in comparison. I created a 3D mock-up of the build( I realized I could do this to save on design costs) and it’s only about $250 in total for the entire frame for a 26” X 26” curing portion, the duster/shaker portion and the preheater/take up roller. The duster box( the box where the powder meets the film and shakes off by slapping) is about $60 plus powder coating. Add in the preheater ( another heated mat), the powder box/powder distribution portion and the take up wheel set-  For an extended 24” shaker capable of being run from a single touch screen if desired would be under $1,000. 
 

my build quote on the whole thing is under $1,000 for a professional looking, powder coated ( sealed with sheet metal, wouldn’t even know it was linear rail) shaker capable of handling 9 IPM( inches per minute X 24” wide) printer feed while still curing properly. The whole unit comes up to about 1500W at full power. Since it’s bottom heated and will retain heat better though it will be more consistent and cycle less often using less electric with less wasted heat. It will have its own adjustable exhaust fan built into the lid. 
 

overall, it could be a complete DIY kit in a box for a professional running shaker, I just need to finish a few small part designs and get the rest of the parts into production. 

the “ prototype” I used to test the cure times and all that before finalizing this stuff has been working well, it’s just the bulbs that keep throwing me off. The only logical reason is cost, but the mats are hardly any more here in the US and are much more efficient and safer. 
 

anyway, love to hear any follow up of the changes made to make it work in your side. 
 

Something I’m going to try with my DIY shaker build( pro model) is using heated mats with aluminum plate instead of bulbs altogether.  The plates will “ hump”   In the middle to ensure complete contact. The plates will be temperature controlled. Cheaper and easier for me with a build, also entirely consistent. 
 

I ordered a custom sized and wattage/voltage mat that will cure the film instead of the bulbs, it should be here in a few days. preliminary testing shows it will work great, and remove the need for the exhaust to be “perfect” and get a complete edge to edge cure. 
 

if that works well I’ll follow up on that as well. Save some electric and hassle with bulb replacements. 

4 hours ago, hurst504 said:

I ended up finding some shorter bulbs. they should be around 10.5 inches. it may or may not work but instead of having one long bulb going straight across. Imma going to stagger them. 
I have noticed that america sucks when it comes down to these bulbs. I've found places in canada and the uk carrying them.
look up this "220V 400W Quartz Heater Tube Infrared Heating Element Pipe". I also found bulbs with a screw end so you have to make your own connection. 

Thanks. I hadn’t used any like that. 
 

I found this one on Amazon- 

IIVVERR AC 220V 400W Quartz Heater Tube Infrared Heating Pipe 33cm (AC 220V 400W Tubo calentador de cuarzo Elemento de calefacción por infrarrojos Tubo de desinfección 33cm

looks just like that one, just apparently 33cm

4 hours ago, carlathebluegeckoprinting. said:

Problem solved.  Bought as roll of economy cold peel and all the blacks came out solid.   The  Ecofreen Premium Plus hot peel apparently does not like our machine.

I got my new film from DTF Superstore, $60 less a roll, right around the corner from me, and the people there are knowledgeable!

The people there also own this forum, great bunch  

glad you got it situated. 

15 hours ago, PaigesPrettyRoots said:

Were you able to fix this problem? I am Currently having the same issues, of course all of the inks are in the right order. I have done multiple cleanings. It prints every other color except for Red. Yellow prints in its place. 

all the nozzle checks show fine?