johnson4

I'm not familiar with that machine, sorry. Usually it's clipped in or a couple screws. I usually just rip them out since the machine will be dead in a year or so anyway.

in general the rollers are removed from DTF printers. You then need an output tray to hold the film in place so it doesn't have a head strike. If you don't remove the rollers it will smear the prints, If you do and you don't make an output tray you will have a head strike basically. On epson conversions you need to see what is holding it in, screws or clips, and undo those. They should come out easily.

Did you check the head alignments and make sure your encoder scales are clean?

No problem, if the cleaner got down on the head cable then it’s likely both.

Could be both. When the printhead shorts out so could the mainboard. Any spills or anything like that in the head cable? I got the hot head cable often on a p600, I had to reseat the head cable on it to fix it. The “ smelling something burning” is the part that gets me. I’d worry damaging a new component and replace both.

You need to set it to print 1 pass in the white ink settings page.

Use wic reset to see what the code is

Yep. I mean some rips can print up to a level of transparency and fade the under base, but again requires much more effort and testing for each image to get it right. i just outright don’t do it.

Halftone dots or some other design effect. You can’t get a transparency edge effect from a solid ink reliably that I am aware of. That or some other design element that transitions the white to a black edge for a black shirt.

No worries, they work good but clog super easy.

People do that yes, I haven’t. I did find the aftermarket’s for this printer are poor fitting as well.

Did you do 2-3 head cleans after the carts were soaked? That is correct on the arrow. Use a syringe and put the orange cap on the ink cartridge bottom, and suck “ air” from the yellow cartridge fill port to see if ink easily flows in. If not, there’s a problem. If it requires heavy suction, there’s a problem. The ciss should be several inches higher than the printhead at the Ink level, not just the ciss. If you have dampers it’s pretty much a must. I run mine about 5-6 inches higher than the printhead with the in-line dampers, but that’s me and my setup, your results may vary so be sure to test. just a warning- if you can only use this printer on the weekends you likely shouldn’t use a CISS with it, especially that printer. i didn’t block anyone, I’m actually not sure if I know how to do that. My inbox is probably full.

It works great with two white ink channels, just needs more frequent white ink refills. some programs require the use of four. i use cleaner in the empty channels. im sure you could use LC and LM if/when the RIPS support them on the printer. You’ll notice most of it is RIP limitations.

were the other prints white only? Theres another guy on here who uses Acro often so he'll likely get you an answer at some point if thats not it.

If I remember correctly you need to disable one "copy", Maybe disable print color layer first, disable white+color and remove white+color my making it 0 copies. Sorry It's been awhile since I used Acro.

I think it's going to vary from person to person. I would just recommend buying a purpose built setup from someone with support in your country and a history of good business practices. Epson conversions will always be disposable and have some flaw in the grand scheme of things. For an actual business that wants to actually make real profit- I would personally avoid Epson conversions for DTF specifically. They are great to learn on and grow from, but know your efforts and costs will ultimately result in throwing it in the trash eventually. Even over super tiny miniscule mistakes. Going the DIY route has cost more money than I like to admit, It's just like any other manufacturing business.

The p400 printhead only works in the p400. It’s a variation of the dx5, but doesn’t work in anything else. you need one of those expensive out of production printheads. The gray dx5’s suck for DTF from my experience, which I think is in the R1900, it was in my r1800 and R2400 and both never printed DTF ink correctly, just standard ink. good luck

Agreed. Don't run it too long like that or you'll also damage the head.

To me it’s like asking a stranger if you need a motorcycle or a semi truck to get to work. each printer model has its own ups and downs, positives and negatives, or overall better suited for a certain type of use and maintenance when it comes to conversions. they also come with their own set of headaches. In reality it will likely get broken whichever you choose within the first couple weeks/months, I wouldn’t sweat it. That’s not being “ negative”, rather realistic. It has a sharp learning curve- not how to make your first print, that’s pretty easy- but how to make your first profitable print and sustain that for months on end without breaking something expensive. my favorite for lower printing requirements was the p400, with the p800 for 50-200 transfers a day. if you plan on doing 0-15 a day I would go with the 1400. I’d never use an eco tank personally, much better out there for the same price or a bit more with far less long term issues. $1900 can buy you a beast of a machine that can print over 200 10x10’s in a work day. In a rather easy “ push button” style. So buying a machines for a bit less than half of that that can’t do more or less than 10-25 a day without serious issues.

Very very true, yet the most underestimated aspect.

Tons of videos that I’ve seen. research, doing it and making mistakes is how you start. it’s pretty basic though. find a supported printer by your favorite RIP, check if it has Chipless firmware, aftermarket cartridges. If it has a waste tank, a waste tank resetter. If it doesn’t have. Waste tank an adjustment program to reset it. remove the rollers, make an output tray- spend a few weeks or months learning hands on and you’ll be fine.

you would reach out to a local waste center and ask. Me personally I dry them out and throw the dry solids in the trash for DTF ink. for one liter of white ink I can generally get about 500 feet of transfers depending on coverage. About a roll and a half of 13” film.

I would like to correct myself also- the date on the bottom is the manufacturer date on my ink too.

Absolutely, I was and still am an avid DIY’er. i only have two “ store bought” printers and one was garbage. all I’m saying is it’s going to cost you to learn and make mistakes, and it will happen. i have seen so much bad advice on FB I left those groups entirely. We all learn and grow, but swearing by an untested “answer” and convincing a stranger they should do X or buy X without any detailed reasons is non-sense. If I recommend X I can tell you why. With the “ why” you can decide for yourself and if my “ why” includes long term success and what “long term” is to that person. That and all the negativity and people who dont put any effort into anything and expect answers that will Make them rich overnight without any work. anytime you see a video nowadays- it’s only there for profit reasons on their part the majority of the time. Views or by selling something. I have seen wayyyy too many dumb videos or affiliated videos hiding the negatives. First hand experience always trumps everything else, which unfortunately costs money. I only know that because I found my own way and made my own mistakes. If you do the same it’ll cost a bit upfront, and a lot of time, but yes it’s absolutely worth it if you pull through and don’t majorly rely on strangers advice for every step. that’s why so much money has been lost on my side, but in return that has turned into experience. i would not recommend starting out by taking out a loan for a $20,000 machine. But if you want full success with the least cost, it’s the way to go in the long run after getting your feet wet. Free support and advice that is bound by the seller, well it’s usually accurate and helpful and can boost the experience/ drop the learning curve time. if not, you are destined to at least a few months of headaches, broken machines and reinvesting. But it pays off if you don’t give up and figure it out. When I hear I can’t afford X and it’s basically the bare minimum, I always point out that it doesn’t stop there and you will need additional funds to keep going before turning much, if any profit. the main thing is properly maintaining the ink and keeping the machine properly cleaned without letting the machine sit for days at a time. Learning this is the most expensive part, aside from finding yourself in the constant need for “ another” device or machine. Everything else can be learned quickly.

Typically with a heat press it’s around 4-5 minutes. The ink is full of glycol and it must be all evaporated to avoid this. If you just melt the powder without curing the ink this happens.