johnson4

That’s good, with time it should get better if it’s decent cleaning solution.

Right, but the main thing is air could be “trapped” causing a sort of “block” creating the appearance of clogged nozzles as well. it’s why Ink charges are necessary, the typical cleaning doesn’t purge enough or fast enough to remove the air from the system. if you want to look at the head you can just use the wiper cleaning function and use a flashlight and look in there. I just did that this morning to clean the ink build up off.

Usually a symptom of a failing head if it’s not the artwork. Check for transparent pixels in the artwork as well. The nozzle checks don’t have this?

I feel like if you do that, you will likely break the printer. It’s entirely unnecessary, anything the printer can’t do, you can’t either when it comes to clogging. Worst case scenario, load a full set of cleaning carts and do several ink charges for each side. air in your line appears as clogging. i am certain this is being over thought, and will result in more issues. personally, I recommend doing ink charges until it’s fixed with DTF ink or cleaning carts. If not, in all my years, Its the begging of the end for the printer. good luck!

I can send it to you.

Use the Version 2. The p5000 puts down enough white ink with only 2 channels, but you must use four with Cadlink. Likely for the best though, I seem to use a liter every other day of white ink. Do you have the adjustment program? It’s needed to clean the wiper.

I am saying the EU printer model supports the resetter and chips. The US model printer does not. For the US model you would need to use one time use chips, which make it nearly impossible to remain profitable depending on how much you can get them for. the Europe models usually all have these types of things release for them, while the US versions do not. They make money on the ink and it's all about the Benjamin's. One set of ink for a P5000 costs $700 less than the entire brand new printer bundle for example.

The number on the chips are telling you which color they are for. In stock form, you can’t put a yellow cartridge in magenta. Each color has its own associated chip. So each set should have 0 duplicate chips, since each “color” has its own. I was able to make mine recognize the aftermarket’s by replacing the OEM’s one by one. Remove yellow, add yellow aftermarket, close door, accept, do it again. initially I spent like 3 hours doing this. now it recognizes them immediately. i have a 2nd p5000 going up soon, so I’m about to do this for a 2nd time and dread it. Just received it today actually. once you get it though, it works. Using the wrong resetter has messed up my chip, so yea be careful.

I would recommend checking the S/N with Epson and buying it direct. Limit one per S/n. as for cleaning/flushing solution, use the same you used with DTG.

The P6000 EU has resetter carts, the US version only has replacment chips, as far as I can find. I'd personally try to reset them. The p5000 said the same thing and EU stuff works on it.

Not that I am aware of unfortunately.

I will say, If you are pressing the transfers yourself you can simply wipe the face of the transfer after peeling then with a damp cloth wipe the face of the transfer and press it the 2nd time. Problem gone.

It's one of those situations where there are multiple variables than can attribute to it. Too much ink can cause it as well, It creates a longer dwell time. Overall you have a wet ink that needs to be heated to evaporate the oils in it, even hours later after printing it without curing. Once it's heated you have this layer of adhesive that seals in the oil if it doesn't evaporate entirely before the transfer starts cooling. You'll see pinholes if you are curing too hot. For me for example, my prints run through a roll printer/shaker. each print is in the curing portion about 5.5 minutes at 230-240 degrees with the extraction fan pulling air out, causing it to cycle more often. This is more than enough for a proper cure, but If I cut that time in half or even 1/3 when running a faster print mode I will run into the same issue and will need a shaker with a longer tunnel dryer to counteract the speed it's running through so it stays under the cuing portion for the same amount of time. The literal jist of it is, the ink hasn't fully cured. The oily substances are from the ink seeping through the print. Not water, Not humidity. Any experienced printer will say the same. Generally you are going to test your prints and get your ink layer right before worrying about the cure, so given the ink layer is the least it can be for CMYK and white and be correct and opaque when pressed, you then move on to curing and getting those times down right. Any change can cause adverse affects on the entire system. It's why faster machines usually run a pre-heater and a longer tunnel heater so they can fully cure the prints when they print 12" in of film in 2 minutes. so you are going to end up with a 2-3 foot long tunnel dryer to maintain that 4-5 minute dwell time. Think of it like microwaving food. It gets hot on the edges, sometimes even burns. The center is still cold. You have to let it sit on the counter for the heat to " seep" in and finish cooking it properly in the center. The same way people get " well done" steaks without overcooking them. The difference in this scenario once the film cools, that's it. It takes seconds. So you must have it dwell in a lower temperature setting for longer to heat the ink causing the glycol to evaporate instead of stay behind so it gets an even thorough cure instead of a quick edge cure. Using an extraction fan would change this variable dramatically, because the heat coming off the bulbs are over 500F and the " ambient" temp is what the machine reads. So using a fan causes it to cycle more often, allowing more direct heat to cure the prints. Without the fan, the basic " ambient" temperature may remain within the set temperature, but the print not cure correctly due to the lack of direct heat. So it should cycle the bulbs on more often, for less time to counteract these effects, while also removing the toxic fumes. It's a win-win. But, for sure you need your ink layer correct first. Start with CMYK, use the least you can without the colors being affected, then make an opaque white without it looking like a " bubble" on the film. make an ICC profile at those settings to get proper colors. You'll now have a good ink layer, not too little and not too much with good color accuracy. Move on to curing then, because if not you'll have to figure out how to cure again once you change your ink settings again. It's not every time, but most of the time the change would allow it to cure faster or slower, it also affects how much powder sticks to the prints. It's definitely a process, making it print and look okay is easy, getting everything to work together for the best possible outcome consistently over a period of time- is not and takes some patience and testing. Vibrancy, durability, hand feel, things like oily prints, prints peeling off the transfer, etc are all because the system isn't set up to work together yet. So me personally, I always start at step one, and move forward until It's all set to each other to provide a soft, vibrant, durable transfer that is the same month after month with minimal adjustments. Changing your film, inks, or powder will require you to adjust these settings again to some degree, sometimes even batch to batch if you use an inconsistent supplier. But the most basic answer is, It's under cured.

It’s under cured, ink wasn’t fully cured when it came out, within a few hours to days you’ll see it. You’ll also see little dots on the surface of the print after transferring depending on the severity.

If you use 13” film and leave the last one in, 1\2 rollers will catch the film edge.

If you do remove them all, I just removed the entire metal bracket, eventually the printed film will also hit that.

They all just unclip. I removed all mine because if not, having only grip on one side with roll printing causes it to feed sideways after some time. Meaning 40 foot in, it’ll be a 1/4 inch to the right from where it started causing misaligned prints and head strikes. Without the rollers this doesn’t happen. however with sheets, it’s likely ideal.

Cadlink has improved greatly over the last year, so if the post was within that time, I would take it with a grain of salt. Cadlink is push button, everything else requires testing and learning- sometimes weeks before getting good results. Cadlink also offers in your face support. so for suppliers, Cadlink is an easy solution. However, it does lack features for advanced users that should come out as an add in eventually. Cadlink print modes are all the settings pre made, some see this good, some see this bad. Personally I didn’t like it because those settings were not good. Now they are pretty decent.

Hi, In general the basic wiring is the same, however for each individual unit, even coming out of the same place can be wired differently with different parts. I have 4 shakers, 3 look identical and two came from the same place. not one of them is the same. Giving advice on the subject could cause some issue because a certified electrician would be advisable and if in some scenario something went wrong, I wouldn't want to be held accountable. So, given that, I am not an electrician, you should not do any of this, this is only speculation based on what I would personally do as a stranger who knows nothing in terms of professional work. The first thing I would check is if you are running it on 110V or 220V. Usually I see 220V, even sometimes if advertised as 110V. Running 110V on a 220V machine, the shaker, duster, even PID will still work, the only thing that won't is the bulbs. I'm not telling you to plug it into a 220V outlet, I'm saying this is a possibility for why the bulbs don't work and something you should look into. The general layout though is you have a very basic system for the heater. It has a main power entrance, which one side is ran to the bulbs directly in one scenario. The other side is ran to a SSR Relay. There is a low voltage DC ( usually 12-24V) that comes out of the PID unit and triggers the SSR relay. This simply connects the positive of the power side to the positive of the heater element side- you would have heat. The first thing I would check if this is your setup is that the relay kicks on. Usually they have a red light on them of some sort to indicate if the relay is functioning. IF you are receiving the red light, then the PID is working. If you are not, you could manually actuate this or check the voltage coming from the PID. If that works, Move on to the relay. The top is two hots( usually), 220V. This can kill you. To make it easy, simply replace the relay to avoid potentially deadly mistakes. If it still does not work and the PID and relay are functioning, then you need to check the bulb connections. Generally there are 3, and they connect somewhere to one wire with a block. Make sure that's fine. If all the above is fine and the bulbs are fine, and if you are running it on the proper voltage, it will work. If it doesn't, then you missed something. If you have the other version using the mechanical relays, generally they connect the ground and hot to that relay, but not always. If that is the case, then all you need to do is check continuity between the two bulb connectors ( again, unit unplugged) If you have continuity, then the bulbs are fine and so are those connections, at least to some degree. Those relays you can visibly see if the are working or damaged, but again also controlled by the same 12-24V DC trigger. Basically, it's not finding what doesn't work, it's finding what does work. Start at the first thing, which I consider the PID and move forward. PID-RELAY-ELEMENTS. That's all there is in the most basic form. So it's one of those things, or the wiring. If I had to put money on it, I'd be willing to bet you are plugging it into a 110V outlet instead of a 220V, and it's a 220V machine.

The 1390/l1800 are 13”, 90 nozzle machines. The slowest available for DTF. pick up a p400/p600/p800 and double your speed. pick up a p5000 and quadruple your speed. if you are using acro, then that’s also slowing you down further.

As for the carts and using the OEM to protect the head, that would work well. The issue is white ink settles, It has TiO2 pigment in the ink and must be shaken often. Sitting in a cartridge, it's unlike any other ink. Sublimation is dye ink, while this ink has tiny particles of solids that make up the color. Those solids will settle, stick to each other, and cause problems if it sits too long without shaking, use, and overall care. As for the chipless carts, I haven't ran my 15000 for a year or so, but last time I checked that did not exist. You had cartridges with one time use chips, meaning when they read empty, you can't print anymore. You CAN however load chipless firmware on the printer so you don't need any chips at all on the cartridges. This is the best and most economical way to go. As for the bundle I mentioned, I paid $300 for my printer from Epson, Paid $60 for Acro 10.5 used, add in chipless and starter supplies like inks, cartridges, etc. I know that was about a year ago mixed with price increases and shortages- so my $500 may not be current. I don't however pay over retail for anything so I play the waiting game most of the time. I have never heard of those inks, so I am not certain on their quality. You don't need black powder, it was a gimmick from the start. See, with any new " system" or " technology" there are always going to be people out to take your money. I feel sawgrass is one of those, alongside several other OEM's ( using modified printers) basically making you do all the work, pay for all the supplies, point the issue at you with no real resolution at the end of the day and they make all the profit. I went through every available technique, less than half were legitimate in their claims and cost me alot of money, which I fought to get back most of the time. As for " cheapest and easiest" something I learned on this forum years ago from another member, you only get one of those things. I would personally add your time is worth something as well. If you are looking for basic and easy, cadlink is the way to go. It's basically a push button operation with full on support. It's also $400 though, which is pretty cheap coming down from its original $1,300ish price for DTF printers. It has come along way and in my opinion, the best place to start. There are others but mainly it's Acrorip( now called DTGRIP), Ekprint, Cadlink. Both acro and EK are great for more advanced users allowing everything to be fined tuned to perfection, which takes alot of time, money in wasted materials and experience learning. Cadlink, well it works well enough to start with and does very well from the get-go, but lacks features for the more advanced users for calibrating the prints. ( as of now anyway, I'm patiently waiting now for over 6 months). If you wanted cheapest, you can find Acro used for around $65 delivered. Sometimes Cadlink, but not as often. If you want upfront support and someone to help you from the RIP, Cadlink is the only way and very in your face with calling you and remote connections to your PC to help. I think the best step is to understand the differences between what you currently do and what you are looking to do, mainly the inks and maintenance. If not, you'll quickly destory the printer, from previous contact with people and with current contact with people. No it's not difficult, it's just specific.

Depends, could be the film, ink, RIP settings and of course overall ink care and cart maintenance. Have you printed successfully before? Do you shake your inks well daily? Have you let the printer sit at all between printing? What RIP are you using? Are some of the basic questions that would help point in the correct direction. Each RIP and printer will have different settings associated with proper output, and is something that needs learned how to adjust to get retail ready transfers, film, powder, ink and printer condition will all change these things as time progresses. Knowing when there is an adjustment needed and what to adjust is very important to being successful in the long term. While asking for basic settings is awesome, I'm simply recommending weeks of testing and learning the RIP you chose and the printer to get a hands on idea on what you need to do as things change within the setup. Running 3-4 machines daily, It's a rather important yet often overlooked aspect especially for newcomers to the process. While cadlink does do it's best to make it push button, DTF printing requires constant changes to keep everything tip-top as well as basic ingenuity to keep the machines working as parts fail.

For me it was the entire side. I would get 10 recognized, pop in the 11th and get it going, boom, the entire other side goes unrecognized. I did this for several hours, also adjusting the seating and placement of the chips. It got to a point where they all instantly recognized that they were seated well, still wouldn’t allow me to use all 11 aftermarket’s. mixed with oem, even just one, it’s been working flawlessly. They don’t have ARC chips for the 5000 and these are sold as one time use, from what I’ve found from China. So they do need pulled and reset. You need to reset them 3 times before reinstalling and all is well. I dislike the fact they don’t show ink levels. If you reuse the oem, it will just be sure to reset it before it’s marked empty or it becomes an “aftermarket chip”.