johnson4

Spots in black are most notable and a symptom of an improper cure. Wipe it with a damp towel after pressing/peeling and press again to remove them after wiping .

While I agree with you, I first hand have experienced the negatives multiple times when not shaking the inks correctly and have lost multiple printers over it. There is heavy pigment in them, mainly the white. It settles over time to the bottom, coagulates and never goes into a suspension the same again. This is where the clogging comes from, the ink settles at a much faster rate and separates the carrier once the above has happened. CMYK is much less susceptible but should still be shaken because as well, I’ve paid the price for the experience. I do white daily, sometimes every other day. Cmyk at least once a week. It’s the same reason you can’t leave it unshaken in a printer for extended periods. With a little time, problems slowly show themselves. this is step one in maintenance, not underestimating the importance of the small things. I lost most of my money here. for a price comparison DTFSS for 4 cmyk liters, 2 white liters is $330. Add in a $135 roll of film and $125 for 11lb of powder, you are at $590 plus shipping so you probably saved about $100. hopefully you get it situated though, we all have our opinions and beliefs but what works for you is what works for you. As I’ve said I’ve spent thousands in mistakes, so I can’t really say much except what I’ve experienced first hand. It’s going to be a long bumpy road, even when that first good looking print rolls out.

In general I would order from somewhere like DTFSUPERSTORE.com. you want a reliable consistent US supplier that won’t send expired inks and has the purchasing power to demand a quality product. A US based company would also usually stand behind their products. DTF ink is pigmented ink, sublimation altogether is absolutely nothing like DTF and shouldn’t be considered as such. Sublimation ink is dye based and contains no solids, the main issue with old sub ink is discoloration and getting dull colors. Old DTF ink coagulates and destroys ink systems and printheads. if you haven’t been shaking your white ink daily and your cmyk ink a few times a week it’s likely not any good for that reason as well. The ink can make or break the entire process and can immediately destroy your printer. The ink is literally the only part that makes it any different than just using a regular printer. You will have to clean many parts daily, shake inks and other things you don’t have to do with dye based ink. what Epson conversion are you using that uses 24” wide film?

i could honestly type for hours about the various causes and it probably not help you at all because it really does boil down to the fine details and variables. DTF is expensive to learn and we all make a ton a mistakes. good luck!

Pretty much all it can be is your film or overheating if nothing is touching the film. Rolls/sheets of film can go from good to crap, it happens all the time. First step I would do is make sure the white side doesn't have that look. If it does, Something is hitting it. If it doesn't, It's the film or image in my opinion. Overheating does cause some random looking issues, so it's possible but least likely.

It's a long road- Figuring it all out. I don't know of any brands either. I test various suppliers until I find what I like and stick with that and hope it stays the same. Cracking after washing usually is directly related to the powder or ink, so I would start there. What brand is your machine?

Try a different adhesive powder.

All the wiring should be self explanatory. The PID has symbols on the back for where it goes. If the person was messing with anything other than those two wires then I'd go after them to have it professionally repaired. A photo of yours would be helpful. I own 5 shakers now plus my DIY cart. all but two are different because they are from the same batch and place.

They are going to be different. Generally though it's a basic system with two relays, 2 panel mounted POTs and some switches. There will be one AC to DC power supply. that is all that is in mine anyway.

So I'm just making a little post to post replacement part numbers and such for the audley mini shaker. Generally this comes from needing to repair something that has failed, but not always. Bearing for the duster box- P/N F6900ZZ its a 10X22X6 flanged bearing. Relay for the Heating elements ( which can also be used for the takeup wheel) Solid State Relay SSR-40DA DC to AC Input 3-32VDC To Output 24-480VAC 40A Duster Bin Motor: (Upgrade) using a much higher torque rated motor will allow it to last much longer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09QPYFMCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Or you can use OEM quality duster bin motor: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Electric-Reduction-Gearbox-Eccentric/dp/B07C7X1SZQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=7H1I46WN2I5K&keywords=24v+30+rpm+eccentric&qid=1659190921&s=industrial&sprefix=24v+30+rpm+eccentric%2Cindustrial%2C74&sr=1-2 It's a 24 volt eccentric 30 RPM motor. 6MM shaft. Sensor for takeup wheel: P/N E3F-DS30C4 Power Supply ( for DC electronics like duster/shaker): DC 24V 5A power supply ( make sure it supports and is set to 220V input before installing) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RTV7HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Timer relay for take-up wheel/duster motor: If you want to separate your duster motor from the take up wheel delay timer, you can just add one of these in-line to the relay so it triggers this and allows the duster motor to run longer/shorter as needed per trigger cycle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T3KCQZB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Unauthorized modifications below) Personally I modified mine. The original relay controls the takeup wheels/duster. The 2nd new relay I added controls the "shaker bar" so the slapper only runs when the takeup wheel runs., and for X time after the takeup wheel stops. I also used a third relay to control the duster so it can run longer/shorter. This basically allows separate timings, more silent operation, and more even powdering. Takeup wheel, powdering, slapping, all come on at the same time, takeup wheel goes off as normal, slapper goes off a few seconds later, duster goes off a few seconds after the shaker. this makes the entire setup fully adjustable so in any scneario I get the correct amount of everything I need for perfection. I also again laser cut some acrylic to fit the end caps of the takeup wheels to prevent sideways movement of the film as it rolls up. I added a powder hopper box to the original powder hopper out of acrylic. It lets the machine run for 100+ minutes without any manual recycling. While there is a nice feature on fancy 24" shakers that recycles the powder for you, adding a small hopper to smaller units is a huge benefit for production I added a secondary pan under the OEM powder pan to catch powder when I am recycling the powder. No mess, no waste. No airborn particles or staticy powder. I removed the film cooling fans entirely- was not needed due to the length of space from the film exiting the heating chamber to actually rolling up. Printing at 21+ 12" X 12" an hour ( 252 inches of length an hour) it is cool before getting halfway there without the fans. Removed and stored away for easier access to load/unload rolls and to use the secondary film wheel when transitioning rolls. Overall it's a great machine and I will continue to post parts I run into that fail or are working unsatisfactory for my own reference and anyone else it may help. I would highly reccomend having some spare parts on hand for any shaker, the main failure points I have encountered and would recommend knowing the model number and keeping spares on hand: Duster motor and Relays. Any "original" component that failed, did so before any modification was made to that aspect. I.E, the duster motor. I added the new motor and hopper at the same time after the original failure.

Totally agree, short but sweet version.

No worries. I was in your shoes 6-7 years ago. good luck with whatever you decide, it’s never easy but it’s always worth the extra effort.

The problem is your a bit late to the game so most compatible printers are gone, as well as the deals. all compatible models have been discontinued and are hard to find except: xp-15000 some 6 color ecotank printers epson p-5000 epson P-6000 the xp-15000 printer is a pain to start on, generally just not ideal. It’s good to learn with though. Know you’ll break it within 60 days no matter how prepared you are. i don’t recommend eco tanks at all, waste of $600 in my opinion. Yeah you can make them work, but it’s rather impossible to maintain consistency. They are designed for dye based ink, not white pigment ink that needs mixed daily. then you get into rather expensive printers, but the p-5000/p-6000 seem to work well, again, after you’ve had some experience. none of it is as easy as it looks. Sure you’ll get some good prints at first. 2-3 months in though, that’s where experience comes in handy. I personally think for intermittent use the p400 is ideal. For almost daily use the P800 has been the most reliable I’ve used in the two years of printing DTF. the 5000 seems good as well, removing a lot of headaches with features the other printers don’t have. All in all though In my opinion roll printing and a shaker is a basic necessity for consistent sellable prints. People buying DTF want consistency, which sheet printing and hand powdering rarely offers. if I could go back in time and save all the money I’ve wasted up until this point learning from mistakes and finding out why different aspects are a deal breaker on these models, I’d have just purchased a 24” printer from Andy. They are $14,000 now for the entire setup, less printhead warranty and PC ( let’s face it, paying for 3 new printheads and a PC upfront honestly doesn’t make sense, just buy 3 new printheads and a PC externally if and when you need them). seems like ALOT of dough upfront, but after a million “ micro purchases” to make a system yourself plus the time and learning experience, it’s actually cheaper. I’ve tried ordering from China, every single time there is always some bullshit associated with it you have to deal with financially and time wise, I don’t care how smart you go about it or if you think chargebacks work. It’s a literal game of luck. let me put it to you this way, I went down this road years ago. The path you are considering. The exact path actually. Paying for the costs with profits, that was my business moto. Absolutely dip your toes in with a cheap printer to learn and see if it’s what you want is a must in my opinion. but leave it there, you’ll break it, don’t get sucked in when you feel “ shorted” and want to keep trying. With most things this business model works great, but with DTF you are left with massive, I mean MASSIVE amounts of time taken and little to show for it. You’ll end up with hundreds of purchases that have no resell value. had I purchased one of these $14,000 setups from the get go, I’d have saved over $20,000 in the last 2 years. Make a little money, spend it to grow. Over and over. You end up with a bunch of low quality broken crap that you wish you wouldn’t have purchased and started with something that you go can grow into, instead of replacing every time you turn around. if you want to make money at selling transfers, your looking at a minimum of $3,000 to start, being cheap as hell. Sheet printing is only good for testing or in house use. After a couple months, you might make $5,000-$6,000 on that setup which you will then now have outgrown. People want 25-50 12”x12” transfers printed and shipped in 24 hours. You can’t do that or you’ll have a dissatisfied customer, so your turning down orders or overall unable to complete them. If you don’t, someone else will then you’ve lost a customer. Get one tiny issue with your setup at all, your whole operation is down. Bulbs, motors, printheads, capping stations, bad inks, bad ICC settings or ink percentages, bad adhesive layer it goes on and on. All it takes is one mistake to destroy what you’ve built. With a DIY pieced together system, it happens almost daily. I know, I’ve been doing it for two years. so take that $5,000-$6,000 and reinvest it again, upgrading to meet demand. Now you have a useless previous system with no value because it has suffered from failures that require forced modifications. People don’t buy used or broken equipment unless it’s a full on actual unit like the 24” Printers. Now you are at ground zero again, broke but with a better setup. Do it again, and again, and again. Finding yourself going nuts trying to keep up with the “ small” things that add up to the whole unit. eventually you’ll turn around and find $20,000 worth of junk behind you and no running printers, with next to no money to show for it because it all went into “ learning and growing”. Something as simple as one bad batch of ink can destroy an entire printer, not just the printhead on an Epson printer. OR you could start off with a small sheet printer to find out if it’s what you want to do. The first week, any new printer will offer great results. After that, it’s downhill until you learn from your mistakes. go “ all-in” if you decide your up to the task and want to dedicate your time to the process. Buy a $15,000 setup and grow into the printer, not the other way around. Worst case, it will hold at least 50% of its value if the business venture fails. You’ll need to print and sell/ship roughly 7,500 12”X12” prints to break even. If you need a new printhead or replacements parts, add 500 12”x12” prints per instance. thats break even. Add the time to print 8000 12”x12” transfers and your looking at 380 hours of printing alone plus maintenance. after that, you’ll have met your profit area and can make $15,000 in every 7,500 12”x12” prints. This is assuming nothing breaks. this is with the going/basic profit rate per foot, given you can meet daily demand consistently while offering decent quality and color accuracy while using good supplies with no down time. Usually this requires to keep backup parts on hand, maybe even a whole extra unit. Anything else, and someone else will take your sales. it’s highly profitable if you play your cards right, or it can consume your life and keep you making micro purchases running a conversion slowly. Spending all your profit almost weekly to keep running. all that said, the xp-15000 works great to test with, run a few prints and learn the importance of maintenance. Maybe sell some low volume prints for a couple weeks or months. After that, I’d go with a full 24” setup that is warranted and comes with support. I know how the above sounds, but it’s the truth, even doing everything right, even spending months researching. no one likes spending money they don’t have, and with this stuff comes at a serious downfall. To sell transfers and make money, you need consistency, speed, and a lot of time. Something conversions don’t traditionally offer. i wish you luck, but the above is my full on opinion based on my losses and gains. I know it’ll be taken with a grain of salt because you’ll do it differently, but I just wanted to put it out there. It’s well worth putting the money in upfront. Speed, consistency, reliability. If one of those is not there, someone else will do it for you.

Waste of money, the head itself is $1,000, unless purchased by Epson ( for $600) which is limited one per serial number. If someone harvested the head they likely used that serial already so you would be stuck at the 1,000 cost for the head alone, plus possibly damaging the entire unit installing it. Not to mention it’s not easy on that model to do without damaging the CSIC holder. the new head would need aligned as well more than likely. id opt for another purchase. For example, I’m selling my new unopened Epson p400 that is Epson refurbished for $800 locally. Possibly still under the original warranty, I don’t remember. My point is it’s very likely not worth it with your description.

Should be whatever you want it to be, both supporting rips have adjustable channel colors. Generally CMYK is CMYK, the “light” is white. Then you have one switching channel with cleaner if it has the 9th cartridge.

I have no idea, But generally smoking and electronics usually is usually a good indication of something has failed. I'm sure DTFSS will get back to you with a bit of time. Good luck!

Pretty much the only option. Maybe there is a chip decoder, but much more expensive.

Nope. Those air air plugs. When you remove the cartridges to store them, you put them back. If it’s installed in the printer, take them out. If they are removed from the printer, put them back in. I would pull the air vents, purge the cart if it has air in the ink path, do an ink charge on each side- should fix you up.

When you prime the cartridges, all you are doing is pulling air out of the cartridges so the ink is fully purged into the cartridges. Air does not work the same way as liquid and can cause “ air lock” as well as clogging and other sorts of issues. It relies on fluid pressure. So you remove the air from the cartridges ink path by pulling the air from the exit chamber until ink comes out. Every aftermarket cartridge needs this done to properly prime it. there is a small plug for air to be sucked in the back near the full port. Once you use the cartridge, you permanently remove the small plug until you remove and store the cartridges outside of the printer. Leaving this in can do what you describe also. i do the same, it’s just a matter of trial and error, thinking you found the issue and finding out it wasn’t it- until you find the real issue. i also post each time, like a mad man. No worries. to be clear, there isn’t, or shouldn’t be a vacuum in the cartridge. If there is, you left the air plug in and that’s bad and causing your issues.

My carts do the same- it’s not an issue. Just push in then pull out so its locked in place. They seem to wear with time and move easier.

Air you removing the air plugs from the cartridges when inserting them in the printer? If you are not, and have both plugs in the carts, this could be your issue.

Oh it will happen eventually, that’s why I’m doing it now while I can without the concern of a machine being down. I think it really just comes down to how many things you’ve experienced. This particular printer is new to me, but has been printing 100+ foot a day without an issue now since I received it. I’ll be down that road and likely destroy something in the process. Then I’ll know. Hopefully it works out and starts working. If not, could always see if warranty will repair it. I know anytime I tried to buy a new printhead while a printer was under warranty they basically refused because it should be covered under warranty.

I don't know. I know the p5000 has 3 seperate things. One to cap, one to suck the ink/purge, and one to nozzle check, then of course the wiper and wiper cleaner. I haven't done anything other than keep it clean, Time will have me test these ideas. I have a new Capping station so I can check it out and see how it works to see what would happen. With this printer you are in a territory I haven't been in yet.

I honestly don’t remember, I make my own.

Ink flow issue, if lines are always visible, might be time for a new printhead.