johnson4

I just flush everything really well and leave the cleaner carts in place. clean the wiper and cap really well. Wet cap and store. I’ve used machines that have sat idle over a year like this without any issues. Just make sure you use something with a wetting agent or something that won’t freeze or dry out. Specifically the p800’s were what I did this to the most.

It happens, in my opinion I always think of the purchase and consider before buying. I hate the idea of a seller being out of shipping cost and product because I changed my mind, so I am certain in what I do before I do it. With DTF, like 90 percent of what I have purchased has been different than I expected in some way. Even $5,000 purchases. That’s why most places are “ as-is” no returns, like vibrant vibes ink. Her, Jason, Veronica, bri, all work together in some way and have this type of return policy for all their products for a reason. Ive seen dozens of people buy the 15000 just to watch it die, I recommend doing your research or you’ll find yourself in a loop of wasting cash. The whole 15000 bundle, including RIP can be as cheap as $500 with a bit of research and patience for an entry level setup with a ciss. None of that means anything if you don’t take the time to really know and understand what you are doing. it’s a learning experience, even if you know exactly what you are doing. It’ll cost you money but you’ll learn and that’s the point. You’ve learned the first step, which is not to overpay for something because it was easy or wasn’t cross referenced. Almost always, it’s cheaper to deal with it yourself if you are going the DIY route. Everyone is a reseller that you are buying from. It may seem easy at first, but keeping a printer running long term and learning the “ ins and outs” takes time and mistakes. I wish you the best of luck.

Probably need more white or the white needs mixed better.

I used the OEM chips for half of them, and have the other half ready when the other chips give me crap. If you can get the aftermarket’s to read, shouldn’t have an issue. It doesn’t seem to count down the ink usage on them so once they recognize it should be fine. I couldn’t get mine to work as a set, using a few OEMs worked. i am not refilling the oem bags, it’s a backup plan if these carts give me an issue. i used an adapter on the shaker with a voltage converter. It only pulls like 1500W so. 2000/3000W converter would work. Running 220 would likely be the best “ electricians” advice. I could change the plug it was about the same price so I went with the adapter for mine. shaker cures and works great, other than one issue. The duster portion motor failed, I have a 550 motor replacement coming that will be a huge upgrade for about $16 on Amazon. The original Motor has about a 20 lb stall point so the motor seems to be undersized. The replacement will have over a 100lb stall point with a built in cooling fan, so it should be reliable. if I can get an add on to profile the printer in Cadlink, or my favorite RIP to support it, I’ll buy another set for sure. acro and Cadlink work with it. Acro is slower than the p800 with the p5000, so I’d recommend Cadlink shockingly.

I agree entirely. im doing 1440x1440 with underbase, it’s doing a 12”x12” print in 2 minutes 30 seconds being 360 nozzles, excluding the little dance in the beginning of the print job. so it goes about twice as fast as the p800, which for me is a 12”x12” every 5 minutes at 180 nozzles. Just like a 12”x12” takes roughly 10 minutes on a 90 nozzle machine. of course depending on the RIP. i used the OEM chips and reset them, I was going to make an adapter for them to sit perfectly on the aftermarket carts. I removed the ink sensor from the oem cart and attached it to the ink chip for ease of use. im pretty stoked with how well it works, I just wish it had some form of inline filter in the cartridges.

Without going into details- This machine is going to change the industry if it stays in production for long.

I can confirm, aftermarket chips and resetting them suck on the p5000. like, I don’t know why anyone would put up with it. At first they show they’ll work perfectly, once you reset them, PITA. May just be my supplier, but at $30 a set of chips delivered, I’m not interested in that cost for ease of use. OEM chips detect instantly, count the ink level accurately, and reset endlessly without a hiccup. A few small mods and the OEM chips are running fine on the aftermarket carts. I mean, it’s like night and day. I love that I can actually see what ink is used so I don’t even have to look at it. So I’m past the first hurdle and now I won’t need to worry about “ 3rd party” messages, or any of the headache that goes with that. next I’ll be loading it up and printing a full 13” 300 foot roll. I expect it to take 14.3 hours of nonstop solid printing to run through the whole roll. I will check it’s nozzle consistency, how often it clogs, if it’s a specific color so on and so forth. This will also test the circuitry to make sure it can handle this level of use. overall, I’m going to run the shit out of this machine. I’m also going to modify my black mini shakers. I’m going to extend the “lid” 10” and space the bulbs a little more. Simple enough to do keeping it at 1300W per setup. I’m noticing I don’t need more bulbs or heat, just longer heat time. So this should work. I’d I find cold spots, I’ll add another 350W bulb making it 1650W, well within my 1800W limit and adjust the bulb spacing accordingly. overall I’m going to make this work, or I’ll have a heap of trash, until one of those happens I’m not giving up. Too many people come to me because the Chinese printer quality just isn’t what they want. Fast and easy, they are for sure. I’ve never been “ fast and easy” so we’ll see how this goes. most people want thin lines, perfect underbases, and overall a level of vivid and boldness I don’t see with any Chinese printer. im after speed, quality, reliability and affordability . Something that is next to impossible from the years I’ve been here. Time to see what I really know.

i know for a fact filtering and or adding a filter is very important. I’m sick of these aftermarket carts that are so poorly made. I get patent issues, but c’mon. Lol. i will say someone or a bunch of someones are buying this model up for something.

Thanks. I’ve already tested using oem chips on the aftermarket carts and it works well. I’ve also made a plan to refill the oem bags if needed and use the stock cartridges. I’ve bypassed the ink sensor in the cartridges. my plan is to run machine with 6 channels. CMYKWW. This leaves me with 4 spare channels that can be anything, white or cmyk. Should be enough to get 12 months use out if it. printer speed and built in functions are worth the headache, it shouldn’t suffer any type of headstrike. One big reason it might have clogging issues is there aren’t any filters in the cartridges. I’ll also test a filter in one of my aftermarket cart builds, see if that helps. overall I plan to do EVERYTHING I possibly can to make this printer work. don’t you run the 4900? i expect the vacuum platen mixed with the self feeding roll to cut down or entirely eliminate headstrikes, the primary reason for permanent clogs and failures in other printers for me. I lost my original p800, at least it needs ink system repair. It’s ran for over a year, running 8-16 hour days almost everyday. What took it out- I threw a white ink cartridge against the wall by accident. Seemed fine- was not fine. Did something to the ink system and leaked ink everywhere. Head still works though. I’m hoping something close to this length of use from each 5000. maybe not- I still haven’t gotten DTF inks in there yet. Just now got it printing the speed and quality I want with OEM.

So I received my p5000 aftermarket cartridges. the chips recognized instantly- the first time. the cartridges seem to be hit or miss to fit perfectly, some get stuck a little. Works fine though. the aftermarket chips, well they also don’t seat well sometimes. so naturally I test the test function on the aftermarket chips by resetting them and reinstalling them. None of them are recognizing now, at least at first. It’s that whole “ game” of getting one side to recognize then the other. When one recognizes then one that previously recognized now isn’t. Been here before multiple times with multiple models and why I used Chipless supported printers. Epson’s way of putting up that middle finger. so I look and almost every aftermarket chip on the p5000 says “ one time use” and the chip resetter says “ oem only”. Nice. So it’s mixed success. Not what I want at all. The aftermarket chips also do not appear to count down the ink correctly, so possible running out of ink or requires constant checking the ink in the carts. The OEM carts have a damper in them, which prevents ink back feeding into the cart. The aftermarket’s do not. So of course, that could be an issue with the way the p5000 pressurizes the ink. Maybe not catastrophic, but at the very least less performance. Of course the damper could only be there to prevent refilling them, except I had oem ink backfeed into the cleaner carts. so further testing to see if this will be an issue or not. now for the chips, I find the aftermarket chips unreliable. If I have to spend even 5 minutes messing around trying to get them to recognize after a reset I’m not interested. i have already tested and verified oem chips will reset and function correctly over and over. so I am going to use the OEM chips on the aftermarket carts for now, if those carts show at all not having dampers in them will be an issue, I will switch over to the stock carts with DTF ink instead. overall I’m making progress, but I can see several issues standard users are going to face that could make this printer a headache. me personally I will bypass these shortcomings and document them here.

I use the standard CMYK 900ML inks, and the Standard white ink. the other white ink ( max) Actually does what it says, When I use it my white are brighter and more solid, seems to dry quicker. Same printing performance so it works well. I wanted to test the " super" inks but, they have been sold out.

You do, Me personally ( lol) I use a grinder and cut a notch over the capping station. Easier to clean, can pull out the whole carriage assembly if needed. That's the p800 though, I don't know about this unit since it is aesthetically designed differently.

Weird. I use DTFsuperstore inks. I feel like it’s white ink separating. You shouldn’t see “ bulging” edges on the white ink layer. on mine I shake my cartridges vigorously, clean the wiper and cap, bottom of the head then proceed to do 3 head cleanings. If I haven’t printed in a day or two I might have to do a heavy cleaning from the printer menu. On a side note i tried the Kodak inks from garment printer, and on a new cartridge the magenta filter was full of sludge after only 80ML. Literal magenta goo when I removed it to inspect it. I don’t know about the rest of their inks, but that’s not good. I also had to replace my damper and go reinstall my usual ink to get it working again. as for this I’m not certain what the issue is, seems like multiple things. Does it do the same with another RIP? Does it do the same with white only?

It could be multiple things, do you have any more reference information? beginning/ end of the print, is this the first print of the “day” or while printing a bunch, new film etc. i still recommend replacing the dampers even if it’s unrelated.

maintop actually did as good as Cadlink in terms of colors. The printer came with a profile and driver, all the things needed for maintop. Printed some seriously bright colors that somehow managed to be solid with the included ICC and whatnot. my problem with it though is it needs the alpha channel added to every image manually and externally, the white layer. At least from what I could find/get to work. Cadlink itself isn’t bad, it’s just slow to me. I love the queue, nothing else within the software is helpful to me in any way. If I used Cadlink my daily profit margins would be literally cut in half, and I would be stuck with grainy colors when they are too light to be solid within Cadlink. I also make my own ICC profiles, so that helps when I can fully adjust things in other rips. literally for no other reason than this do I not recommend it, I consider everything else, mainly customer service to be an opinion, Situational, a variable. Shit happens. If I’m the only one with this experience, then you see me as “at fault”. Maybe that’s true, I can’t judge my own experience from a different perspective unfortunately. However you’ll then see more people speak up or tell their experience as a rebuttal or agreement because of my statements. When it comes to facts, irrefutable facts, that’s where my standing lies with why I don’t recommend Cadlink. Print speed and lack of print mode creation tools available to end users. If you want easy cookie cutter prints, it’s literally the best for that. However, as you “ level up” on your venture, you’ll also stumble upon your own findings. Do what’s best for you. Overall Cadlink works great, I have my ups and downs with it. If I didn’t have my experience from the last 5-7 years with this field, I would also 100% recommend Cadlink for new/newer users.

It’s only about $20-$25 in parts and it’s really good preventative maintenance so I would. I replace mine as needed and around every 6 months. Used machines I replace them right away usually, plus it gets you inside the machine so you get used to it. For the price vs cost if it fails and does head/printer damage, it’s worth it to me to know the condition of those parts overall.

I hope it works out well for you. That is my main quabble with the imported stuff, There is hardly any universal RIP support. You usually get stuck with something instead of having options. Everyone is going to like something different depending on their style. many times I didn't purchase an overseas printer was literally over the RIP support and being stuck with cadlink and their "support". My experience with them sounds similar to you and Audley. I have never heard of the RIP, so I don't really know. I do hope it works out well and would love to see how it goes all in all. I still have my sleeves full so I won't be testing anything else like this for quite awhile, but would be great to know.

I'm just assuming, I have no idea. I have never had anything like that happen, but I know you are using cadlink, and I know I have weird things somewhat related to the things you experienced happen on other printers. I am only relating my experiences to yours vaguely, so that take part with a grain of salt.

Sounds like a cadlink issue then, Random glitches I guess. I have them anyway. Glad its working!

The damper is what controls the overall ink flow, it has a pressurized ink system. If the damper leaks, it will allow more pressure than it should. Since you already have a bad switching damper, I would recommend it. Switching over to matte black on the printer and in the software is perfectly fine and what I meant above. For me, it takes 2 heavy cleanings or one ink charge to fully clear the line from the cart to the head. Other than that, I don't really know. Dampers, ink cartridges. That's the only physical thing to cause these issues that I am aware of from my experience. If you are running the carts without the filters, then it very well could be the dampers are clogging as well. This is how mine killed off the dampers within a few days with the gun carts. Brand new bottles of ink usually contain small fragments of things, I have taken photo's in the past of brand new cartridges, filled with brand new ink when empty, had at least 4-5 small blobs on the filter, Multiple brands. If the dampers are as old as the printer, that would be my first step. If it's software related, I don't know I don't really use CAD link. For example, With the 80ML filtered carts, I replace my dampers about every 6 months. For the gun carts, They failed within 7 days ( sooner) and I had to replace them. That's why I have about 25 spares on hand, I'll go through them within the next 6-8 months. I can't say specifically for you, but for sure on my end my first step is replace all the dampers- IF 1-2 heavy ink cleanings do not help or fix the issue.

Sounds like a damper issue, that'd be my first guess anyway. When you switched your cleaner cart into your black, are you now printing with the black as matte black? If not, you are likely printing with cleaner right about now.

Personally on the p800 I don’t have any settling for 24+ hours so it shouldn’t be that. If it was, 2-3 head cleans clears it up.

I will say the audley mini (Dual xp600) did come without a hitch and works great. Never once has it given me any issue setting up or printing. I did with Cadlink, but I know how to fix it when it happens so it’s cool. So A+ from DTFsuperstore there. It did come with a broken white ink filter, which he sent a replacement next day. It very well could have been me opening the crate though, I’m not sure. He took care of it immediately though. i routinely get 16+ 12” X 12” from it if printing in a nesting queue. It’s a bit slower on a per page queue. i think other printers of the same design should be the same. I do believe the audley mini is the best built of them all.

so I simply stick with Andy now, I know it’ll get corrected if I run into a problem for anything larger, or for supplies I need to be consistent.

The same here. Not necessarily the audley company, rather any larger purchase from China I have made. Either the paperwork that I provided wasn’t attached to the package properly and it had customs issues, or it came not as described. luckily I have a really good parts dealer for everything small like parts, carts, printheads etc. so that kind of stuff is always perfect. To me I wish there was a supplier who used and focused on these products they offer here in the US. If I wanted to see every little detail of an item and it’s use, I should be able to do that. Even if it has multiple revisions, I should be able to see exactly what I am purchasing.Then that is also what you receive. Even US purchases usually arrive with some form of deviation because it originated from China. Fortunately I’ve been successful at modifying everything to fit my needs- so far. I do my best to harp to get the information I need before purchasing, and being super specific. But most of the time this initiates protocol “ ignore customer” lol. the big problem with the overseas process is you have the person you communicate with, a different person who makes your order and another who ships it. Almost always a miscommunication occurs here, and of course it’s a a loss they can’t deal with because of the low margins. Most of the time I offer to pay for shipping on their mistakes and they are on it to get it situated. If not, it’s my fault and they deny it. That’s because the person you talk to has no idea what was sent. i always use a purchasing method with a tested customer service portal for protection. Someone that you can reach out to that is on your side, like a discover card for example. So if it goes downhill too much, I stop wasting my time and file a chargeback and they take care of it. Purchasing from Andy usually avoids all of the above, sometimes you run into variations but he is super helpful about it. For example, I purchased a 4 bulb Audley mini dryer and it’s only a 3 bulb. It’s said to be a 13” shaker, which the slapper is only 11.5” wide. This is fine for most film, but you would expect the slapper to be the width of the film or larger. The 14” bulbs should cure 13” just fine though with good edge cure, and the small slapper should be fine with any decent film and powder that doesn’t naturally stick to it in any form. It appears each bulb is about 450-500W so in total the unit uses 1500W. My main decisions for purchasing this was because it had 4 bulbs and would actually cure/shake 13” film. My little black shakers said 13” as well, but again are not, you get very poor edge cure because you need wider bulbs, 35CM or larger for 13” film. That and the slapper width was only 11.5” for A3 film. My original 13” shaker actually cures and shakes properly, as it was designed for 13” film. Purchased in back in 2020, looking for an identical unit for the last almost two years has led to me have 3 black mini shakers, two of which did not arrive anything how they should have. so overall I think you are going to run into issues anywhere, but you’ll get the help you need from some US suppliers, while from others you will not, especially overseas.