johnson4

Cadlink is notorious for grainy colors. It’s normal unless you fine tune your own profiles. You have head strikes as well. If you wet capped it’ll do it, poor fitting aftermarket carts, tons of things. It’s a learning process for sure.

I meant overall print speed not RIP speed, Cadlink takes longer to print than others rips, or has done so In all my testing. One of my favorites is 5 minutes on another rip, 16 minutes on Cadlink exact same settings, file and sheet print size. If it works for you and you are happy with it, it’s apples to oranges. We all have our preference and based on that there is no “true” best, it’s all only preference. For me, my preference is fast as possible and high quality- not necessarily feature packed( which I don’t use) and easy to setup. i like fine tuning every aspect, I can’t do that in Cadlink without multiple add on features, so overall I prefer other rips.

1. Cadlink is not the best software for this printer. Cadlink is always 1440x720 base, which is comparable to other rips at 1440x1440 on the speed. Cadlink is also slow though, print drivers may have updated since I used it. To me it’s just not worth it for Epson machines. My tests Cadlink routinely printed 33% slower or more compared to othe Rips. Again this varies based on who made the driver for the printer, but every printer I have compared RIPS with, Cadlink is always the slowest on conversions. 2. i don’t know, this is the part where you just change it and see what happens, timing, quality, etc check it and see for yourself. 3. make your own settings, every rip had flaws and weird things you must get accustomed to. I use Cadlink almost daily on an audley. Personally I thought black only mode meant it only printed black ink, not knocked out the black. 4. Cadlink should have come “ pre set” out of the box to work with your printer. That’s why everyone pushes Cadlink on newcomers. Ink settings included, all that is made when the printer is profiled by Cadlink side. Only changes you can make are limited on cmyk side without knocking your colors out of whack. White is fully adjustable. 5. it uses all the channels per pass. 2 is pretty much a minimum for a good white layer. 6. It works on paper, best on an inkjet transparency to see the white ink. I’ve never done this once on any of my printers, I have used over 50 Epson’s over the years. Never had a problem myself. good luck

I’m sure I’ll test it eventually. I like making transfers AND love working on printers. i personally wouldn’t expect much from it though. If I can get my hands on a 24” shaker I will likely buy one. Right now I’m waiting for DTFSS to list one for sale so I can consider the total cost. When I am finalized and give up on that, then I’ll look for a used p6000. at current, other than the speed I only see the 24” prints to be a hassle to handle.

I will say when I looked, you could get this audley mini with xp600 heads or I3200 heads. I have no idea if it's the same board or any of that. The ribbon connector on the mainboard is a connector, instead of being built in so you can swap them, so maybe. I still haven't used it a ton, but it's going on 1000 feet of film without any issues, other than the whole cadlink thing. I'm shocked at how it never stops printing- not even for a second unless your print job is set up to do that. It starts printing the 2nd print while the first print is finishing and so on and so forth. I think this is one of the key reasons it's faster than a standard desktop.

mine looks like: LXQIN Senyang Board Works well, I get good print speeds. I replaced the fan on it because it sucked, it’s ran for 6 hours straight without stopping even to load the next image before. In Cadlink I run copies on the same page, I usually do 50-100 copies and it just never stops till it’s finished. i actually really like this printer- it’s Cadlink I struggle with.

Dumb question- how do you know which is which?

I have no clue, but I’d be interested in hearing where it goes.

Another Random post. I have been using an Audley Mini for awhile now, I mean at least a few months. It works great, and actually pumps out a decent amount of transfers. On the 12"X12" i was doing It gave me almost 17 an hour. On some 11X11's it was actually 21 an hour. I don't know why the discrepancy Both of these figures are 100+ prints in 1-2 runs with maybe 4 head cleans in total- which were not necessary but rather a precaution. However at this point my concern is with Cadlink. I have aligned the printer perfectly, choke turned off on cadlink and verified. I get the white "peeping" around everything by about 1-2 pixels. This is evenly on all sides. So for example If I printed a square, I am getting white overlap by 1-2 pixels all around the entire image. Cool, So It's at least aligned evenly. I turn the choke on in Cadink and it immediately shifts the entire white layer instead of an even choke across the entire design. Alright, I'll realign it. I get that right, setup with the choke again to where it is printing perfectly centered. I mean to the point I can print small lines and it cover it perfectly with white underbase. Things like 24 point text. Change the choke setting at all - again it shifts the white layer. Use a different image? Again it moves the white layer. However, If I rotate the image so the " main" portion prints first, ( imagine a graphic with a ground and trees, instead of the trees printing first it's the ground) it actually prints correctly without any issues. If I do not do this, huge misalignment from the get-go. So at this point I am having to realign the printer for every image, So I am basically only using it for large runs of identical prints, otherwise my under base is always off. I will try adding a single pixel to the start of my print in black, because it seems where it starts printing, if it's not a solid even "surface" it then misaligns the rest. I Have mustered through maintop and printed multiple things with perfect results in the white underbase alignment department and it doesn't do this, so it's not the printer. It's something to do with cadlink. Now I will admit I am not well experienced with cadlink, but I do believe this is a non-standard issue. I will continue to test, use and overall learn to see if I can come up with something or figure out if I am doing something incorrectly. It's not ideal, other than this it works great at this point. I just don't understand the discrepancy of the underbase based on the image placement. I have been using high quality files that I made for testing reasons. Exported correctly and all that.

It may be a work in progress. V1 works fine, just slow. I’d recommend EKprint for the p800, it’s fast and good quality. Colors don’t look grainy.

I purchased 10.5 so I’ll see where that goes when it gets here.

So: Ekprint 11 12" X 12" prints an hour ( 1 12" X 12" print slower than the P800 with ekprint) Cadlink 13.3 12" X 12" prints per hour ( like twice as fast as the P800 with cadlink) Not really a worthy upgrade to gain 1 12" X 12" per hour unless out of necessity since the p800 is out of production. Now I need to test Acro 10.X and DevStudio and see what happens. unfortunately no demo's exist for these so it's going to take some time to figure out how to test them before buying them.

I very much appreciate that. I however will take your word for it, I do see the clear differences from the video. It was mainly out of curiosity because I couldn't make out the size it was. Again I appreciate the information.

I do see it in your list, On the website and other information they only mention the printer being supported for the cut function, not actually under the supported printers list which made me weary of it.

Thanks. Ironically I’ve asked for something like this from every dealer, and their website contact before on multiple occasions. Being a total stranger you’ve been more helpful than any supplier or associated entity of Acrorip that I have reached out to. may I ask the size of that image that was printed in this example?

I'm working on it, Sounds like EKprint isn't going to work with it in bi-directional mode. I have 4 other RIPS to try out with it though. Likely due to it being the only 360 printer they support and the driver just not made correctly and not being worth the time/effort. Who knows though, I have no idea what goes on in making stuff like that work. If I can get 15+ out of it, I'll go for it. If not, It's not really worth it. I doubt it will beat the dual XP600's but it should. The only reason it has to be dual is due to the 4 channel head, so they use one for white and one for color to achieve 360 nozzles per color CMYK. The P5000 should be able to obtain similar speeds being 360 X 10 and basing the speeds from other 180 nozzle prints under the same conditions. IF they did make a bi-directional update, then it would absolutely be 20+ an hour out of it. I don't want to use another RIP but If I have to I have to. Time to get things moving.

Yes. It's just as slow as the P800 though.

I mean, you are using a literal fan in a box with a carbon filter to filter out toxic fumes and recycle them back into the room you are in. The filters need changed often, mainly because you are curing a liquid and viscous drippings accumulate rather quickly. Once it’s “moist” it no longer allows airflow and just causes a mess and restricted flow. Carbon filters are good, but I’m not going to trust them with a humid/moist toxic vapor( along with the heat) being recirculating in the air i breathe. put it to you this way. I installed a 4” dryer vent and use a 4” speed adjustable inline fan. I made a U trap before the fan to catch the drippings. In 3 weeks I had enough collected to fill half a liter ink bottle. That was when I wasn’t all that busy. Now that fan has 3 shakers running on it and almost needs cleaned weekly, or else the 4” U will fill with fluid and stop working. the ingredients of the ink point to this fluid that evaporates and recollects as it cools is actually the same glycol that is used in anti freeze. Not the same “ type” literally the same poisonous if consumed fluid. It’s normal to use it for ink apparently. anyway- venting it outside with a trap to collect the fluid is what I went with. If I forget to turn my fan on even for a few minutes I’m going to be coughing for weeks( I don’t know if it’s the droplets of this poisonous fluid or what- but it sucks for quite awhile). Breathing in air with this fluid partially suspended before it cools entire and drops out( and gets in everything in the room) , it’s still consuming it in small amounts. so- I vote an external fan- cheaper, safer, less maintenance, less electric and cooling needed in the room. ( because too hot will also cause printer issues). I get it if that isn’t an option, but everyone has a window, and they sell or you can make a portable 4” inline fan and vent it out of the window and one of those dryer window adapters, or some other DIY adapter to block the rest of the window opening. Might take a few minutes to set up, but likely worth it.

I buy all mine from DTFsuperstore. Consistent and works well.

Just any speed adjustable 4” or 6” inline fan on Amazon will do. I chose flexible black ducting because my setup gets broke down and cleaned weekly, but you could do a hard tube if you wanted. just make sure to not run it straight up, you’ll get a lot of dripping if you do. I make a U trap before the fan on mine, I run 3 mini shakers on one 4” inline fan set at about 60 percent.

Thanks. Does 10.5 process job any faster?

Don't forget about good maintenance. Ek comes with a manual and the person you bought it from should be able to help you with the custom table size. Good luck!

for your ink order, the original spots marked CMYK- is that the same color for your DTF inks? white ink in gray and red? Looks like you have clogged nozzles or something up with your cartridge. I wouldn't print on them much like that it can cause permanent damage. It's not a push button situation, you'll have to fine tune your ink settings and learn the program before you really run into getting great colorful prints. Every printer is different, even the same model when it comes to ink percentages. After you get a good layer of both white and color, you then run into doing this same thing for your film, powder, curing. Once you do all that, hope your suppliers don't change, because you'll have to do it again to some degree when it does. As for the custom table size, have you tried reaching out to the place you purchased it from?

It's a start, try printing with the resolution and everything else I mentioned changed.

But you should be good after doing the aforementioned things. Just tweaking your ink settings for the color and white to get a good layer for both.