johnson4

is that Celsius? Something doesn't sound right. I run mine at 100C and it works perfectly. The machine in F runs at 226 and works perfectly- regardless of the humidity. If its really cold in here, I bump up the temp a couple degrees. Are you using a converter for your shaker, and have you taken actual temps in the center of the plate after it has heated up?

Humidity is fine around 40 percent. What’s the actual temperature in the center of the curing plate? It’s the only thing I have ever seen cause that. Uneven/improper cure. The ink has glycol in it, which is what the residue is. If it was heated and extracted correctly it wouldn’t be on the film. you can store transfers for months in humid area- they don’t reabsorb water. They just suck out the glycol from improperly cured inks. It just needs testing on your end.

It’s too hot, not cured long enough time. Ink needs time to evaporate and cure before powder layer melts and seals it all in. Too hot too fast, this doesn’t happen. Only place it can go is to the surface of the film or the edges of its bad enough. You can cure straight from the printer- if you are dialed in to do so with proper temps and times. i have never seen humidity affect curing, here it ranges from 40 to 80 percent all the time.

For reference- a p600 head will not work in a p800. It can boot, it can print, but it will not work. Sometimes they just show an error immediately , sometimes they just give you terrible print issues and tons of errors unrelated until you change the head back.

Nope.

I emailed them asking for the part number and gave them my printer serial number. They don’t reply on the weekends. I get a response immediately usually. I’m not sure.

That’s the only version I’ve tried.

So just do the alignments like normal?

Magenta is also the color that gives me crap in the P400, R2400, Xp1500, or any other gravity fed printer i have used. Seriously. This specific color. Anytime I have a clog or issue, it's always magenta. nothing else unless it's my fault.

720X720 on the p800 takes 20 seconds. 1440x720 about a minute. 1440x1440 2.5 minutes for a 12x12 single color design. I’m personally curious how one would adjust the printer to avoid banding, but I always stick to 1440x1440.

Yea. I mean it’s highly profitable, it’s well worth it. I don’t care what people say, if you know what you are doing a basic supported Epson printer can bring you in several thousand a month. A couple of them could break 10k a month in transfers. It’s all about what your willing to learn and how fast.

I’d like to try what you are saying. I know 720x anything is insane in speed. how are you adjusting the alignment? if it’s the same head, possible to put et head in XP printer? Maybe even just the manifold?

the 15000 is 180 nozzles per channel, it printed the same speed as the P400/p600/p800 for me. Maybe 1 print slower an hour. If it's within 1-2 prints an hour I just call it the same. I wonder why there isn't any information on the head, not even from china? I know I didn't like the ET printers because I've went through 4 of them just as regular printers. Not that model, but various models. The build quality seemed very poor on them overall. So as a first impression, I didn't even consider it.

do you know how fast does that et8550 print a 12X12 CMYK+W print?

do you know how fast does that et8550 print a 12X12 CMYK+W print?

Right. I'm just trying to find the machine that could- if you will. I print 8-12 hours a day continuous roll printing- so finding the fastest Epson that can take that, while still being produced is what I'm looking for.

No worries.

If it works it works. That's how I got the P800's for $100 each. Selling the ink. I'm curious about that 4900's print speed. This is what I get from the P800. All the 90 nozzle printers I've used printed literally half this speed at 1440X1440. so one would assume 360 nozzles should print faster at the same resolution.

Compass micro. I think it was $500ish. You need the p400 serial number to buy it. I’ve got 3 p400s here, you can also usually look on Google or eBay, people usually don’t cover the serial number.

That’s good to hear. Me personally I still liked what I got from the 15000 since it’s cheaper. I consider it disposable, but I feel like you could easily get a good 6+ months from it. I just haven’t entirely finished the new damper adapter conversion yet. it’s good that things are moving forward though with current models- regardless of their downfalls they’ll work. I’ve realized it’ll probably be awhile before these p800’s die. Knock on wood, I’ve printed over 40 rolls on this one p800 and it’s fine still. Getting ready to need a new capping station though. In the last 3 weeks I’ve printed about 8 rolls on it alone. That’s mainly what I’m worried about with the smaller printers is them overheating. the p400 after a few hours of roll printing would overheat and kick the film until I added a fan to it. I’ve had an audley mini testing it for a few weeks. I’ve been cut short on it because I can’t seem to get good consistent results from Cadlink with it, but I think it’s still being profiled which would likely fix that. it seems to be as fast as the p800, a smidgen faster actually. 15 square feet an hour.

Hey, so when you do get that all going, do you mind sharing some information about the 4900? I’m looking for actual print speed comparisons. One person said it’s slower than the p800, which I don’t see how. Basically just time a cmyk+W 12x12 print at 1440x1440 with EKprint. 360 nozzle head should be able to print faster than a 180 nozzle head and maintain the same resolution. I’ve tested and verified this 90 VS 180 nozzle. I don’t want to spend $1,800 to find out. I would however spend the $1,800 if it did.

I’d think at that point though it’s a mute point. You’d have to print quite a bit of imagine for it to do that. the only 8550 videos I seen were of some guy who had no idea what he was doing, which looked like 1430 speeds.

Check your relay.

Right, it’s in the “ middle” part where it’s too new to have good support yet all the old versions are gone. if I had to choose one of them that you mentioned I’d go for the P5000 personally. xp15000 isn’t great unless you design your own ink system. p6000 too expensive to maintain with chips, for me anyway.