johnson4

Yea, That can happen. The output tray should be lower than the rollers in the front. If you get at it immediately with cleaner though usually it's fine. The printhead can be purchased directly from Epson for $850. They say the P600 head works in it, but I have tried 3 different heads and it DOES NOT. However, the P800 head works in the p600. Weird. This is what I was told by my regular Epson parts distributor for the P800. " The Epson part number is F196040, and the Epson list price is $842.44, plus shipping and sales tax."

I flush manually with distilled water, once fully flushed I replace the dampers for those channels then load carts with cleaner in it. Do another couple ink charges and it’s good to go. Just make sure to use cleaning solution or capping station solution. You’ll still waste the solution anyway doing head cleans and whatnot so it’s not ideal. I’ll pm you.

It's one of those trial and error things that you have to do to get your machine running correctly, that you will likely have to change from time to time.

likely too much white, and the white ink has seperated become watery. Each brand of film can handle different amounts of ink I've found. Start low, then go up. Do white only small square print at 10 percent, and go up by 10 percent until you see a nice solid layer of white. Use that percentage then trial and error. I dont remember exactly, but I feel like I was around 30-40 percent white on the 15000. On the P800 at 1440x1440, I run the white at 17 percent in acro. My color was about the same. It's too much white ink and or seperated white ink.

not a problem. Freshly printed film can be held entirely vertical and not run. If you have ink running- your doing something very wrong. heated bed- not needed unless it’s really cold when your printing. the reason it needs to be absolutely flat out of the printer is to prevent head strikes usually. the cart I made, it came out of the printer and within 3-5 inches it went straight vertical for at least 10 minutes down and up before hitting the upside down heat press to cure it. The best advice I can give- stop preparing and watching others and “do it yourself”. That’s when you’ll really understand- as you face the problem. When you run into an issue, that’s when you stick with it and understand it better. these people you watch, most of them are for just that reason- so you watch.

You can get the trial version from their website. http://www.eukondigital.com/ekprint/demo_download.asp

I know this isn’t what you are asking- but it’s literally all in the experience. Things change constantly that require you to adjust to keep everything running well all around. test, test, and more testing. because everything you asked is a variable that no two printers will have the same answer for- even for themselves most of the time. Even two identical setups will require different settings and techniques.

Yea, it’sa good fast printer especially for the price as long as you keep from wetting the head electronics.

The entire width of your film. I used 1/2” sticker tape. Loading a sheet of paper under the film should also work. It just needs to read the edges of the “paper”.

That’s awesome, that was my biggest issue with the 15000, I mean aside from the crappy aftermarket carts. it has been awhile now though since I’ve used one. i still have a new one here. I plan on trying acro 11 when it comes out.

Wait, your printhead moves up and down on the 15000?

The original output tray- he put cardboard on it to to make it taller and flat and support the whole sheet.

Yea, that’s normal. That’s too much ink. I don’t remember what they were in this printer, but a p800 is 17 percent white and color at that resolution. Much more, I run into this issue too.

What resolution and ink percentage.

No worries. It’s the sensor on the head not seeing the whole width of film.

Add a strip or feed a sheet of paper with the film.

If your output tray is the right height and level it shouldnt do that.

Probably not, the ridges left would likely create a bad seal. I was going to pull, measure and replicate the stock seals and remake them in solid rubber/foam type of material from a laser cutter. Maybe a little taller, so it is firmly sealed. I forget what it’s called exactly. This will stop the leaking , in theory. I found out the hard way you can’t use water washable UV resin with this ink- lol. Even when it’s cured. So I’ll re attempt my damper adapter with standard UV resin. If it works, I don’t see why I couldn’t make a cartridge.

the whole “ dead printer” is from the leaky/aftermarket carts leaking ink on the printhead connections. If you go that route Make sure they seat well and clean up any spills. I added silicone to mine, so ink couldn’t leak down in there. Every printer model will have a huge list of failures, and successes. It’s because it’s literally on the person trying to operate it, almost all of them starting out with no clue. BUT seeing how they failed, and learning from that, goes a long way. 136000 or something like that means ink had got into the printhead connections, which was most peoples issue. That and several people tried to sell them as a cheap DIY kit for $1,000-$2,000, so alot of people bought them thinking they were push button.

Here is my original thread- I had forgotten my login, MicahG is me.

If you go into it knowing it’s disposable- the 15000 is a good option overall, but like I said the carts aren’t going to be able to sit like your usage entails. But they are cheap and you can always try it yourself. The cartridges overseas are like $5 a set. I used one for a few weeks, little over a month and roll printed very heavily with it, and it worked well. It’s documented here on the site from back in the middle of last year. Even if you had to replace your two white cartridges weekly, that’s $5 for 6 carts- or 3 weeks worth if you do end up having issues with it or like $7 a month in carts. I actually have a new one sitting here, I’m making damper adapters for it so I can use a CISS and bypass the cartridge seals. Using a caliper, I did verify all the aftermarket sets of cartridges don’t align or sit the same as stock where it seals, and the seal on the Epson is hollow. I planned to make an auto resetting ink/waste counter for it as well. The 15000 prints as fast as the p400/p600/p800. The only problem- aftermarket carts suck. some people said to use an xp600 manifold in it, but I have an xp600 and it’s not close to being the same. the 8550 is an ecotank, so I’m confused how you’ll shake the ink, and purge the ink lines, maybe shake the whole printer and then use a syringe to pull the ink through the dampers, or empty it every other day mix and reinstall. the guy who did it with the 8550 ran into quite a few problems with it. trying to get popular on YouTube and social media, so he made it seem like it was just a perfect printer. He always printed a pink doughnut with arms. the issues I saw with him have with it was: 1. It didn’t detect the film sheets correctly 2. No roll printing support( which really lowers waste) 3. He said he didn’t shake his white ink at all, just used a syringe to suck it out bi weekly to add fresh ink( something like that). 4. he RMA’d it twice, before complaining about it and going to the 15000. 5. it was as slow as the l1800. I don’t know first hand at all though I’m the 8550, for the price it just wasn’t worth it to me. I do know if you don’t shake your white ink and purge the ink lines every few days, it just won’t work well after a few weeks-month. whatever you do, we’d love to hear how it goes.

You’ll quickly realize the drawbacks with it, once you rely on it. Especially with a Ciss system and aftermarket carts, unless they have fixed them.