johnson4

The p400/p600/p800 are the same speed. A few other models that don’t support Chipless. but, you are right- things are very expensive.

I did not go that route. I’m still using my p800’s. The p5000 technically should be twice as fast as the p800, or 24 sq ft an hour plus two additional spot color/spare channels. BUT I haven’t bought one to try, $1800 is a lot.

I was talking about the Epson p5000 with the 360 nozzle 10X channel printhead. P900 is said to be support by acro 11.

https://compassmicro.com/pump-cap-assembly-for-epson-surecolor-p800.html

No está mal, como el resto con algunas salvedades. Programa de restablecimiento del depósito de residuos, añadir un depósito de residuos. Carros recargables (con chips de reinicio). Usé EKprint con él. el problema con el que me encontré fue que tenían cabezales de impresión a base de agua, cara plateada. Se tapaba mucho. Los cabezales de impresión de cara dorada no. DX5 es caro. Recomiendo una impresora más nueva como la P400 que admite Chipless y los cabezales de impresión todavía están en producción.

“Above all, we have noticed that after printing the sheets should not be immediately processed with glue: we let them rest on the oven surface which is slightly warm and helps eliminate static electricity. After 1/2 minutes the sheets are dusted off without glue residues.” this isn’t due to static, this is due to moisture. The inks consist of glycerol, ethylene glycol, water, pigment and the pigment carrier. The reason it’s heated before powdering is to get that excess water out, leaving behind the glycerol. While static can be an issue, that stems mainly from roll printing, plastic film sliding across a surface creating static. A flatbed printer shouldn’t experience this. the pretreat sheet ( film) absorbs the ethylene glycol and water, causing a “ halo” effect as it wicks into the film with moisture if not heated/air dried. If powdered before it’s heated/air dried, too Much powder will stick to the ink, causing a thick transfer, as well as the “ halo”. another thing is it doesn’t have a large effect, but the powder and film both absorb small amounts of humidity. A roll of film, for example, left in a humid environment, the parts of the film exposed will absorb some moisture and powder sticks to it where it shouldn’t. Cut that off, throwing away the exposed material, works fine. if your powder is too dry though, ( like if you remove all the moisture entirely) then it clings like crazy to the ink and film ( if it has any humidity in it at all) irregardless. as for the inks, no I don’t believe the inks are really any different. Look at the ingredients and search across multiple brands MSDS, cross referencing every chemical. These inks are almost all the same, in terms of ingredients, while the clear variables are simply substitute/nearly identical chemicals with very different names. i have used Chinese ink since Dec. 2020, and I haven’t had any issues related to it. In fact, Dupont 5000 DTG inks, and Kodak inks caused more problems than DTF ink for me. I ran DTG for quite a few years as well. i get brand loyalty, but a million variables can’t be reduced down to a “ best case” scenario when many of them are based on your opinion. If it works for you and you like it, go for it. personally, I’m using Epson conversions and have been with excellent results. I don’t know how many transfers at this point, but I do know I have used over 45 rolls of 13x325FT long film, with these conversions with a simple click and print interface after initial setting it up. I walk away for 2-3 hours at a time while they print. I have about $1,200 in each printer/shaker combo, in my scenario. Currently I do 12 sq ft an hour per printer, or 30 sq for black or white per printer. Not terrible fast, but I’m also not doing anything but waiting. i also make due financially, so I make do with what I have. Personally, I don’t care what brand or model it is, because I’ll figure out how to use it as long as the main components can take constant printing and support my ink needs. If you need support, definitely stick to a reputable company. It would be nice, but I definitely can’t afford to spend XXX more in trade for X time to figure it out on my own. My time isn’t worth the cost difference, lol. good luck!

I just pulled out the cotton, left the top off and put it back in. Whenever it needs reset, it’s about half full or so. I just empty it then.

The sensor on the bottom of the printhead is a light sensor, using thicker film works. There are other ways, but that and the strip of tape are the easiest.

custsetting.ini EKprint feed file.

That said, I'm using expired inks at the 4-5 month mark without issue, and the DTG inks are over a year expired. white Shaken daily, CMYK isn't. Good luck!

Yes. Shake the white ink often, If not daily, every other day. CMYK- doesn't matter. the ink consists of Water, Diethylene glycol, Glycerol, pigment and it's carrier and usually an additive to prevent bacterial growth. The shelf life comes from the pigment/carrier breaking down, and the mix going beyond it's shelf life ( more than a few months) would start to be affected by bacteria and other chemical breakdowns. While the shelf life may be one year, sometimes that is " worst case" scenario. Anything beyond that though, you are pushing it and risk issues.

1. Yes, I used EKprint. 2. no 3. Chipless solutions 4. No, unless you are printing black ink only. Without white, you are literally limited to a white shirt without white ink using color.

It's around here somewhere, if not I can send it over to you in a bit.

The ciss is difficult, and uses the same cartridges just with a tank attached. Personally I’d recommend just carts until you are ready to try the ciss, unless you have some in line dampers

Yea, it’s a good starter setup. Just be careful, some of those aftermarket carts don’t seal well.

I’m still working on it actually, while it works, it can be better

This website and DTFsuperstore are the same people, yes. if it’s printing on paper and not the film, then yea you need a more opaque film. It doesn’t mean something is wrong with the film, some work better than others for conversions. Something like economy may be more opaque, the double sided film is more opaque. I did use Andy’s film, but I sourced my own because I liked the matte finish better, which he didn’t offer at the time. you can trick the printer with a sticker on the front edge of the film as a “ registration” Making it think it’s paper to see if that’s it though. something I just remembered, if it’s an option, paper width check and size need to be off. I don’t remember if the 15000 had this option. there is a light sensor that reads the edge of the paper on the bottom of the carriage.

Does the printer print with regular paper?

It possibly could be looking for the paper. The film your using looks rather see through, the 15000 needs a more opaque film. Try feeding film with a sheet of paper at the same time, or simply printing on a sheet of paper. If that doesn’t change anything, it’s some setting with EKprint.

I intend on answering all your questions, if I miss one let me know. 1. I always double press. For me, it seems to press it further into the fabric and makes it softer, I don’t know about durability without the 2nd press, I always do it and not a single issue. 2. I have never pre pressed a shirt- and I as well remain in 60+ humidity with fluctuations in temperature. 3. People recommend letting the print dry first. It will turn from a wet look to a matte look when it’s ready for powder. I run auto machines most of the time, and they always dry this much before reaching the powder- if they don’t I add a heat strip so they do. The few times I hand did them, yes them being wet vs “ matte” looking made a huge difference in quality. 4. I press at 290 F for 15 seconds, twice. I notice hotter degrades the print. 5. your powder and film will absorb moisture. More importantly, your film. If you have powder sticking anywhere it shouldn’t without tapping it off the film, they are holding moisture. Wouldn’t cause this though. 6. I as well use heavy pressure. My opinion- cured/powdered improperly. do you have photos of your print before powdering, after powdering before curing, and after curing both front and back?

Nice! If you ever need it, I have a sealed Epson refurbished p400 for sale in the us for $1,000.

Still not a single issue with the Omron relays.

I would use spongeless for sure. I’d get a couple sets. You could use those sponged carts for cleaner/flushing to try and get things printing. You can see nozzle checks on paper with a flashlight with clear liquid, or use an inkjet transparency. Might try that before investing more into it and it may not work to save on losses if it doesn’t work. the 15000 is good, but the aftermarket carts I had didn’t seat very well, so unless the updated them you’ll get leaking. The overall recommendation is to remove them and place empty/cleaner filled carts in at night with both plugs in so it doesn’t leak but also protects the head from drying out.

There is a program, it costs $10 and does unlimited resets for the 1430, wic reset is not budget friendly.

1430 needs the hoses pulled and a waste tank applied, software to reset it. It depends on the ink in the printer, if you printed printable heat transfers then you likely used pigment ink, which not used for 10 years, it likely isn’t going to work but worth a try. Peizo plush is good for pigment inks.