johnson4

The p400 needs a separate program to reset the waste tank. It’s $10, and you can reset it as many times as you want. the p400 also uses an internal waste tank, so you would need to modify it, it’s under the right side cover and run it to a waste tank bottle. you can send me a PM.

not a problem at all. None of the P400's come with a roll feed attachment that will work. the ( rather unimpressive) roll media adapter on it is for 2" core, tiny rolls of paper, like 33 feet or something. The P800 is the only one that will accept the rolls of film natively, and those are so hard to come by it's insane. Me personally, on all of my conversions( p400's and p800's) I just 3D printed 2 brackets, drilled and tapped ( of course after looking and making sure I wouldn't damage anything) holes in the printer. Attached with bolts, added nuts to the bolts on the top side inside the printer for extra measure. Used an 8MM rod and 2 more 3D printed adapters to adapt the 8MM rod to the 3" core. Rolls like butter, easy to change- ugly as hell. I've done this to 4 printers now and works better than anything else I could buy/find. Some people buy/make external adapters, but I always liked the roll being attached to the printer. The one that came with that red chinese printer- threw the roll holder in the trash immediately, it was such a PITA, and never worked right, aside from alignment issues. I did the same to that one with a modified bracket. Real Ingenuity comes from necessity, So if it's the path you want to go down, bite the bullet and you'll figure it out I'm sure. Its not really something planning can do without it being in your face. As for my printer, I don't remember where all I've posted it. It's a sealed box Epson P400 ( Epson refurbished) printer. I've held pretty firm on the price of $1,000 Plus shipping. If you can find a brand new one for a smidgen more, I'd go that route, given it still has a warranty.

Yea, I agree with you, But it hasn't been an issue for me personally. I shake mine like hell, have been for the last 6 years with DTG, and for 14-15 months with DTF. Happy Printing!

Hello. welcome to the journey. i want to start off with, don’t buy that red Chinese printer. It was nothing but trouble and me just being lazy. It was an R2400, which was refused to be disclosed until I received it. If it were a p400, I’d be using it right now. That’s actually the plan, convert it to a p400 when I have the time. One of those “ live and learn” lessons for me. you are correct, the 15000 just isn’t going to be ideal, the carts leak and leak into the printhead connections over time. the p400 sounds like the best thing for you. I do think $1,500 is a high price, I’ve had this Epson refurbished one listed for $1,000 for months, so I think you could probably find a better deal, but if it works for you, I agree it’s a great printer and probably the best for your circumstances. the p800 is great too, but since it isn’t going to be used daily, it’s not ideal for your circumstances. the older model printers I stay away from, while they work, parts are hard to find, usually have some finicky problems and overall don’t offer Chipless ink solutions. Which is a big thing for me. from your post though, I don’t think I could really add anything because you are spot on, other than an, “I agree” and my experiences. im actually testing a similar machine to the knight 12, with two xp600 heads. a direct comparison to a p800/p400, its 3-5 sq ft an hour faster, with the prints coming out a bit grainier when looking up close, which could be me, I’m still working on it. it would require a good temperature and humidity, while the Epson doesn’t seem to mind if it’s ran in low humidity. The xp600 heads seem to very much dislike anything under 50 percent humidity. But, the p400 and the similar printer to the knight 12 with dual xp600 heads works well. One would be easier to use as needed, one would need used daily, or almost daily. I do recommend buying a printer/shaker combo, and venting it outside. It makes quick work of things. With my p400 I printed 12 sq ft an hour cmyk+w, and 30 sq ft an hour black or white only.

Andy doesn’t sell transfers, but you could just ask around for samples from providers near you. while at cost to you might spend $.60 per transfer for supplies, you need to account for the printer cost, maintenance waste ink and film, as well as a few other things, including the price for the printer, time and electricity and shipping, and of course the $3,000 printhead replacement people haven to do every 6 months or so. me personally, I feel like $3-$3.50 is a good price for low volume 12x12 transfers. This is my price range. For 13”X300FT I feel like I’d expect to pay $600 for the roll printed end to end plus shipping, or $2 a sq ft plus actual shipping costs. This is where I would be at anyway selling in bulk, unless several rolls were ordered at a time, but that cost wouldn’t drop significantly, maybe $0.25-$0.50 a sq ft. This comes out to about 25 hours of printing per 300 ft roll, on the fastest Epson conversion. Or about 20 hours on a dual head 13” Chinese printer, or 10 hours on a 24” dual head printer( on 24” film, making it 11.5” max width X2 side by side plus cutting) , maybe 5 hours on the 4 head printers. total cost to the printer would vary, but be around $130 for the film, $50-$60 in ink, and $30-$40 in powder, plus the time, which is $220-$240 total supplies cost per 13” roll printed. Add in 35 percent for taxes and fees, and all the other above costs I mentioned. That’s $370 per roll, take out 35 percent for state and federal taxes, or $130 which you are left with $240 or so if buyer pays for shipping plus the time based on your printer. $230 profit per 5-25 hours of printing, plus paying off your initial investment of anywhere from $2,000-$35,000 for the printer and shaker and interest if any, it’s about as low as you are going to get, even printing it yourself. Getting to $2 per sq ft in bulk, plus having good ICC profiles( which is another $3,000 machine) and good turnaround times, reliability ( extra parts lying around) etc- it gets rough and a challenge to offer these low prices and also be a reliable, quality printer. so anything less than $3.50 a sq ft low volume, or less than $2-$2.50 a sq ft high volume, it’s going to end up actually costing more. anything over $5 a sq ft is just a plain out rip off, regardless of the machines they run, in my opinion.

No idea, I’d have to have the printer in front of me. you also should try printing with aftermarket cleaner carts, not the oem carts, to remove that variable. Maybe printer recognizes aftermarket vs OEM installed. are you removing the air plug from the aftermarket cartridges? Can’t have both in and it print. Only the one plug remains when printing.

Inkchip software sucks. Go over and download the software from Chipless solutions.com and use the same activation key/software. this same thing happened to at least 10 people I know, including me. It’s the firmware from inkchip.

The p400/p600/p800 are the same speed. A few other models that don’t support Chipless. but, you are right- things are very expensive.

I did not go that route. I’m still using my p800’s. The p5000 technically should be twice as fast as the p800, or 24 sq ft an hour plus two additional spot color/spare channels. BUT I haven’t bought one to try, $1800 is a lot.

I was talking about the Epson p5000 with the 360 nozzle 10X channel printhead. P900 is said to be support by acro 11.

https://compassmicro.com/pump-cap-assembly-for-epson-surecolor-p800.html

No está mal, como el resto con algunas salvedades. Programa de restablecimiento del depósito de residuos, añadir un depósito de residuos. Carros recargables (con chips de reinicio). Usé EKprint con él. el problema con el que me encontré fue que tenían cabezales de impresión a base de agua, cara plateada. Se tapaba mucho. Los cabezales de impresión de cara dorada no. DX5 es caro. Recomiendo una impresora más nueva como la P400 que admite Chipless y los cabezales de impresión todavía están en producción.

“Above all, we have noticed that after printing the sheets should not be immediately processed with glue: we let them rest on the oven surface which is slightly warm and helps eliminate static electricity. After 1/2 minutes the sheets are dusted off without glue residues.” this isn’t due to static, this is due to moisture. The inks consist of glycerol, ethylene glycol, water, pigment and the pigment carrier. The reason it’s heated before powdering is to get that excess water out, leaving behind the glycerol. While static can be an issue, that stems mainly from roll printing, plastic film sliding across a surface creating static. A flatbed printer shouldn’t experience this. the pretreat sheet ( film) absorbs the ethylene glycol and water, causing a “ halo” effect as it wicks into the film with moisture if not heated/air dried. If powdered before it’s heated/air dried, too Much powder will stick to the ink, causing a thick transfer, as well as the “ halo”. another thing is it doesn’t have a large effect, but the powder and film both absorb small amounts of humidity. A roll of film, for example, left in a humid environment, the parts of the film exposed will absorb some moisture and powder sticks to it where it shouldn’t. Cut that off, throwing away the exposed material, works fine. if your powder is too dry though, ( like if you remove all the moisture entirely) then it clings like crazy to the ink and film ( if it has any humidity in it at all) irregardless. as for the inks, no I don’t believe the inks are really any different. Look at the ingredients and search across multiple brands MSDS, cross referencing every chemical. These inks are almost all the same, in terms of ingredients, while the clear variables are simply substitute/nearly identical chemicals with very different names. i have used Chinese ink since Dec. 2020, and I haven’t had any issues related to it. In fact, Dupont 5000 DTG inks, and Kodak inks caused more problems than DTF ink for me. I ran DTG for quite a few years as well. i get brand loyalty, but a million variables can’t be reduced down to a “ best case” scenario when many of them are based on your opinion. If it works for you and you like it, go for it. personally, I’m using Epson conversions and have been with excellent results. I don’t know how many transfers at this point, but I do know I have used over 45 rolls of 13x325FT long film, with these conversions with a simple click and print interface after initial setting it up. I walk away for 2-3 hours at a time while they print. I have about $1,200 in each printer/shaker combo, in my scenario. Currently I do 12 sq ft an hour per printer, or 30 sq for black or white per printer. Not terrible fast, but I’m also not doing anything but waiting. i also make due financially, so I make do with what I have. Personally, I don’t care what brand or model it is, because I’ll figure out how to use it as long as the main components can take constant printing and support my ink needs. If you need support, definitely stick to a reputable company. It would be nice, but I definitely can’t afford to spend XXX more in trade for X time to figure it out on my own. My time isn’t worth the cost difference, lol. good luck!

I just pulled out the cotton, left the top off and put it back in. Whenever it needs reset, it’s about half full or so. I just empty it then.

The sensor on the bottom of the printhead is a light sensor, using thicker film works. There are other ways, but that and the strip of tape are the easiest.

custsetting.ini EKprint feed file.

That said, I'm using expired inks at the 4-5 month mark without issue, and the DTG inks are over a year expired. white Shaken daily, CMYK isn't. Good luck!

Yes. Shake the white ink often, If not daily, every other day. CMYK- doesn't matter. the ink consists of Water, Diethylene glycol, Glycerol, pigment and it's carrier and usually an additive to prevent bacterial growth. The shelf life comes from the pigment/carrier breaking down, and the mix going beyond it's shelf life ( more than a few months) would start to be affected by bacteria and other chemical breakdowns. While the shelf life may be one year, sometimes that is " worst case" scenario. Anything beyond that though, you are pushing it and risk issues.

1. Yes, I used EKprint. 2. no 3. Chipless solutions 4. No, unless you are printing black ink only. Without white, you are literally limited to a white shirt without white ink using color.

It's around here somewhere, if not I can send it over to you in a bit.

The ciss is difficult, and uses the same cartridges just with a tank attached. Personally I’d recommend just carts until you are ready to try the ciss, unless you have some in line dampers

Yea, it’s a good starter setup. Just be careful, some of those aftermarket carts don’t seal well.

I’m still working on it actually, while it works, it can be better