johnson4

How do you mix and prevent the white ink from settling?

hola, no te preocupes. Espero que parte de la información haya sido útil. en cuanto a las tintas, nunca usé las tintas oem, las vendí. Hice el orinter sin chips y utilicé carros de posventa de inmediato. sin embargo, si desea utilizar las tintas originales para probarlo antes de convertirlo, es una buena idea. no dañará nada y solo requerirá 2-3 limpiezas adicionales para eliminar las tintas OEM.

That’s how much they are now. You can order directly from China for about $30 plus your shipping method.

@Mdrake2016 is your slapper also too small to accommodate 13” film? They made it shorter instead of cutting. Notch for the bolt. So I’ll have to fix that too.

Everyone seems to have their preference. I have over 23liters of dtf superstore ink and use it in my p800. The same ink seemed to bugger the p400. It printed for months just fine, so maybe it just wore out I don’t know. USA inks did the same. Never tried the wide format. I just stopped using the p400 and I’ve been fine since.

It just does, the pan is a bit wider than the hole, so it's not piling up on the sides. It does tower around where it comes off the film, but that takes quite a while before it causes an issue since the pan is deeper and it rolls off the top. But, every now and again I just tap the pan with my foot and it all falls down, I've ran it without doing that before too, so I just do it whenever I inspect the prints coming out of the printer. That's good to hear on the powder/motor. Something I learned about the powder, if it's compressed in any way, it will want to hold that shape, which happens in my 5lb box. I always try to run it empty. It hasn't been an issue with clogging, i just don't add more powder until its actually empty. Its been working great though with the timer, It makes me wonder why it didn't come that way.

@Mdrake2016 So, After some time F'n around I decided to change some stuff on the powder. my issue is getting the perfect amount of powder. either it's too much, or too little, or the motor quits because its low. So, Instead, I made the powder flow max, and turned it all the way up. I used a Timer: ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T3KCQZB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) Right now I'm fine tuning it, since different slapper speeds will cause more/less powder to fall off, But After 5 minutes I've nearly perfected it. For my setup, The duster on Max, with all the holes bigger, It runs 45 seconds on, and 4 minutes off for the powder. working perfect, and has GREATLY extended my run time before refilling powder. Now I'm getting over 3 hours run time without adding powder. Mix that with the guides for the take-up roller, ( and thanks to the 80ML P800 carts) you stand there doing nothing. I was done trying to get the perfect powder coming out, without clogging, stopping, too much, all that. This is the best $13 I've ever spent on this thing, that and the $10 take up roller guides I made.

They are usually marked as compatible. I’ve never tried due to them being 3X the cost.

I have 1 new Epson refurbished p400 still under Epson warranty, and one new Epson p800 for sale. You’ll be hard pressed to find these anywhere. if pickup in southern Ohio and paid with cash I would discount - just PM me. otherwise, it’s $1400 for the p400 with shipping comes with oem ink. $2000 for the p800 with shipping doesn’t come with oem ink. these are the last two I will ever have. I have sold several of each of these models without issues. I have sold two of them very recently and they are happy with them. USA only, PayPal friends and family only if shipping. I’m not going to deal with chargebacks or whatever else people do these days. All sales are final. In person is preferred, so you and I both can be inspect our transaction. If I know you I’ll cut you a deal. If you mess up the printer conversion that’s on you. They work, and I can prove that with cleaning solution if requested. I will not load ink under any circumstances. They are new after all. I CAN convert them to complete DTF and offer a bundle, at a very reasonable discounted price. I can help out, but at this price you are not paying for support so I will not hold your hand. I also have one used opendtg p600 DTG printer. Works good, used but completely flushed. Will print nozzle checks with cleaner. $1,000 obo plus shipping. Printer only, no base. I also have a knight 8 printer, needs a printhead. Based on the R2400. $1,000 plus shipping. Uses DX5 printhead. If you don’t like the price, cool don’t comment. People are paying $3000+ for a converted l1800, which is a slow entry level printer. The p400/p800 can easily do 20 sq an hour cmykw or 40 sq ft an hour black/white. If interested in anything PM me. Once these are gone they are gone. Happy printing and stay safe!!

I’d buy it

If you cleaned the encoder strip, the only other two logical things are the rail needs lubed, or the capping station needs replaced.

Gotta knock on wood next time You could always swap your ink order around. Like yellow in the magenta, see if yellow then clogs or vise versa. Mine followed the ink colors and eventually any channel I put cyan and magenta in started clogging. With OEM inks though, it printed perfectly fine. My personal opinion, when the piezo functions it creates a light suction. Possibly over time this wears out, gets build up or some other weird thing causing it to lose that suction. If a head clean fixes it ( with the cap sucking) that’s my theory behind it. I don’t really know though. Like I said, a brand new head in my situation did the exact same thing with the same ink, yet that ink worked in the p800’s without a single issue. Maybe because it’s pressurized, I’m not sure. after so much time I just have to give up, until I have more time. I worked on the p400’s for two weeks trying to figure this out, and never did.

The bottom of the head gets build up from the wiper as it wipes with ink on it, head strikes, clogged nozzles etc. I only use foam swabs, but that’s me. Paper towels are made of fibers, which usually are left behind in some degree even if you can’t see them, I’m just weird though. I’ve seen VVI stuff too, I agree with you, but I have no first hand experience so I’m not really sure, it’s too expensive for me. On the p400’s- every now and again I cleaned the bottom. Maybe 3 times in total before I stored them away. I never manually did anything flushing wise, except for the R2400 heads if I remember correctly. It’s my last resort. Cleaning the bottom just depends, if you have build up after 1-2 days of printing, then I would clean it daily. It usually took at least a week or two for any noticeable build up, the chunks didn’t come for awhile after that though. Maybe once a month to 1.5 months.

For the printhead stopping over the capping station, I'm not 100% sure, but I am certain this is to allow the motor that moves the printhead to cool. I found some things in the adjustment program that shows things that kind of support this, like the temperature limit reset counter when you replace the motor for the printhead. The printhead doesn't actually spit ink, and all Epson's do it every 20 passes, at least all I have owned. I think the older/more used it gets, the longer it sits there.

What inks are you using? The Wide format ink might work better, I haven't tried the USA inks yet. The P400 being gravity fed will encounter the issues more often. IF your capping station isn't clean and the bottom of the printhead that will aid in this too. Overall if the cartridge isn't sealing well, it can cause it too. Make sure there isn't any build up, and the cartridge port is clean and makes a good seal. I ran two p400's for the first half of the year, I printed over 6,000 transfers on them without a single issue related to the printer using the basic DTF superstore inks. inherently one printer ran continuous, while the other was " ready" for when I needed more done in the day. I had 4 sets of carts and just swapped them, did a head clean, and kept going. I never once had colors drop out or any clogging issues at all. We took a break for about a month, for the first time in 5 years. Came back, everything was cool, then out of nowhere my cyan and magenta was doing what you are describing. Replaced the printhead, same thing. I think it's the ink, but I never figured it out. I cleaned them and stored them away for another day. It wasn't the capping station ( replaced) printhead ( replaced) or carts ( replaced) in my scenario. The only thing that stayed the same was the ink. I'm not blaming it, the same ink works perfectly in the p800's I now run, but rather maybe they settled a bit, or " batch to batch" quality wasn't there. But, It doesn't make sense for all the core components to be brand new directly from Epson, and still have the same issue. To me, it only points to the ink. I did run tests on the ink and pulled full liters through a 20 micron filter ( the same micron as OEM epson filters) and I did find some stuff in the magenta and cyan. White yellow and black were perfect. Is it a coincidence that's the same colors I had an issue with? I don't know. It could have also been me opening/closing the lid and dried ink falling inside. The reason I mention the wide format inks, is because from my understanding the i3200 and 4720 printhead has more delicate nozzles, so the ink is better suited for it. It's worth a shot anyway. I know my inks were expired by the time I came back, I hoarded them last year because Andy was new in the game and couldn't keep the stuff in stock in the beginning. It might be that. I'm not saying this is YOUR scenario, but what I did and how it was for me. Maybe your cap isn't sealing well so the head is getting air around it, or maybe the wiper isn't doing a good job anymore. Honestly, it's just one of those things that have a ton of variables, I've never really seen someone from afar pinpoint the issue before for others.

Look and see if the wiper is actuating in a straight up and going back down like this "L". When crud gets in there if the wiper doesn't rotate exactly right, it pops and clicks, sometimes it will grind because it isn't being released properly. Anytime this has happened, a good cleaning and oiling usually helped for a few months, but ultimately it needed replaced. IF you need a new capping station, the p600 capping station fits it too.

I'm going to be honest with you, I wish they would have stuck with the first design I received. Yes it needed a few changes, nothing really but to satisfy my needs. This 2nd one, It's just a pain in the ass.

I just eyeballed it, this one is probably the same. I ended up 3D printing an adapter that goes around the existing pipe to attach to my 4" Hvac hose. So, I compared my two units as closely as I could in the middle of the night, as well as compared it to several units I found online with detailed photos. This mini shaker I have, Heats and works fine until you put a fan on it. I mean, any fan, any CFM( enough to pull the fumes out anyway) makes it cool down and it won't hold a temp. Adding the aluminum sheet helped, but the main problem is the holes in the lid are easily 5-10 times bigger than they should be. the mini shaker that holds temps perfectly, has tiny holes, maybe .2 inches in diameter. These holes on this mini shaker is closer to half an inch. To top that off, the holes line up exactly with the heating elements, making the heat rise and go out of the holes. The other shaker isn't like this. Basically, it's pulling cold air in there over the elements and temp probe and it won't keep temp, due to too much airflow ( any airflow down to so little it doesn't even suck the fumes). I used aluminum Hvac tape, took the lid apart and taped all the holes on the backside. Then, I poked holes in the foil tape to emulate the other machine, for a total of 8 open holes NOT above the elements. NOW it holds a temp and allows the fumes to be pulled out. Straight up design flaw. Is this necessary? I Don't know, but it's working now for me. Another thing to watch out for, that I DO NOT like. The old mini shaker uses the same 3RPM motor as the duster on the take up reel, 12V. The NEW shaker uses 220V. so, a bad connector, scraped wire, etc, you are exposing yourself to 220V of electricity. Not really an issue per say, but I don't like it. So, I've gotten past the fume extraction, it reaching and holding a temperature, and even heating. The duster on mine puts out WAYY to much powder, consistently. Block some of the holes, and they clog too much and stop putting out powder. Turn it down to 1/4 or so, and it won't rotate. So, I'm just going to add an external 24V timer, turn the duster on full blast and use the timer to be on X seconds and off X seconds, whatever that may be to keep a good pillow of powder in the bottom. My goal isn't the "curtain" of powder coming out, but rather a small pile of powder at the bottom of the U, which works great, better than the curtain in my opinion. I'll be looking for a 24V 2rpm motor to replace the 5RPM one with. ( the lower the RPM, the higher the torque when it comes to geared motors). I also had to realign the lid, from factory they installed it crooked to cover up the fact that one side of my shaker is longer than the other ( which is also why the welds broke when I turned on the slapper). Aside from that and the underpowered stock duster motor, it seems like it will work fine.

I've asked this guy, alongside multiple other people several times with no answer. It immediately invalidates all of it to me, based on the very principle that the white ink must be shaken.

You could, but it's not really necessary. Just shake your cartridges daily and print at least every few days to keep the white ink okay. after 24 hours or so, you'll probably need to do a heavy head clean if it starts to settle. Trust me, that's much easier and less of a headache than what you are asking- been there done that.

The ones that have been expired are from expiration date. I never shake my Cmyk, I should probably start, lol.

How have you been mixing your white ink?

Yea, ink was something that I left out. I have some that’s been expired for 6 months and works fine though.

Yea, I was going to import the p900 from EU, to use chip resetter. Just waiting on a rip too. I don’t really care for the p700, if it’s anything like the p600.