johnson4

Make sure your ink order is correct.

Could be a lot of things. Bad cartridges, clogged manifold, clogging ink bay, leaky seal on the damper, or a bad printhead.

It’s a file you add in the EKprint folder, that tells EKprint not to advance/eject the film after printing.

And now my motor is burning out too.

Yep- when filled with powder mine will slowly come to a stop as well.

I’m going to be honest, I really don’t like this 2nd shaker at all. It can’t keep a temperature and overheats, the slapper is so badly aligned it broke the welds when I turned it on, and it has a 3” exhaust port. the temperature controller it uses sucks compared to the first one I have, even though they are both the same “ model” controller. ive ordered another controller/relay/ coupler combo, going to whip out the welder and drill and see what I can come up with. Already ordered the 4” adapter. here’s to another fun week.

@TammyBerg

You need to install the form feed file for EKprint, and make some sort of roll holder for the film. The first time you load the film, it loads like a sheet of paper. After that, it doesn’t spit the film out. You set the gap between the prints in EKprint. just be sure to watch your ink levels, it will spit the film out if they run out while it’s loaded. The trick around it, pause your print job in windows print queue when it’s low, when the last print finishes, just pull out and put in the waste tank- this resets the ink. Refill your ink if needed of course, resume printing in windows, repeat. you also unfortunately cannot do a head clean while the film is loaded, not at least when I did it.

The speed controllers were the same, the relays unfortunately are not. Your relays are solid state relays. if you want, I can make a list with links for the parts of the machine, the ones that would go bad anyway. I know I have to keep two different sets now since they are both different. the 12V motors could probably work with the speed controller turned down a lot- but I’m not sure, I know they’ll wear out much faster or burn up if too much for too long occurs. glad that’s the answer though. I’m working on mine right now, setting up the 2nd p800 and retiring my cart build. Good luck out there!

EKprint has supported the p700 for a bit, if they picked up the p900 I’d be excited.

It does, so I wouldn’t worry about it if the powder comes out like it should. im extremely happy that you got it fixed, that’s awesome. the great thing is, in the future, you know the unit inside out basically. Issues should be easily resolved, at least easier. You also have a better converter that can handle the load continuously without issue. 500W was still under powered. i know I have extra in hand: extra speed controller extra relays for both machines extra temperature controller for both. extra motors and silicon slapper.( found a 3rpm motor same as the duster on the take up reel, so keeping those in hand for sure). I don’t know what types of prints you do, but black/white only this thing does 40 prints an hour easily. 20 ish for cmykw. Definitely worth it. good luck and I wish you much success!

You know something you could do if that’s the issue, drill the holes a bit bigger and add a washer to the bolts( if needed), giving you some wiggle room for adjustments on the motor side. Either way, I’d love to see/hear how it’s going.

Yea, that could cause it. My video just shows my spinning the roller easily with the motor disconnected. These are the motors I used in my first shaker, and look identical to the 2nd shaker, but as we’ve found out that could be wrong. as far as I’m aware, they only have one bolt pattern for this size, and that’s what we are using. Again though, I could be wrong.

That’s with the screw loose of course.

Idk if this helps… FullSizeRender.mov

No, that sounds like it’s binding. The brush should barely rub the bottom of the tray.

This is what’s in my new shaker: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-MKASYON-Switching-Converter-Security/dp/B07GFMG7F7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=39X9X7033NRG8&keywords=AC+110V%2F220V+to+DC+24V+2A+48W+Power+Supply+Transformer+Switch%2CMKASYON+AC%2FDC+Switching+Adapter+Converter+Driver+for+LED+Strip+Light%2CCCTV+Camera%2CSecurity+System+Computer+Project%2CRadio+and+More+(24V2A)&qid=1636048305&sprefix=ac+110v%2F220v+to+dc+24v+2a+48w+power+supply+transformer+switch%2Cmkasyon+ac%2Fdc+switching+adapter+converter+driver+for+led+strip+light%2Ccctv+camera%2Csecurity+system+computer+project%2Cradio+and+more+24v2a+%2Caps%2C547&sr=8-1 24V 2A.

Yea, that’s literally the only thing left.

I don’t, I think it’s the same as the p4900. I personally want to go this route, but I haven’t found any evidence that it’s faster than the p800 so I haven’t. I’ve been looking for a cheap p5000 to test on.

Yea, glad you got it to work for you. This is something like I do except all the way across and on the edge, which works fine too.

Cool, hopefully it works out better. I’m working on the two I have and getting them situated so I can retire my DIY cart.

Yea, weird stuff.

Very true. I wonder what the printhead specs are.

Its just naturally occurring on all of mine, with quite a bit of tension. I think it’s natural for them to go side to side, given the uneven surface. It seems to take several revolutions for 1-2mm side to side, which progressively gets worse. Kind of the same reason the printer has a guide. Just crazy to see that on a high end unit.