johnson4

When you prime the cartridges, all you are doing is pulling air out of the cartridges so the ink is fully purged into the cartridges. Air does not work the same way as liquid and can cause “ air lock” as well as clogging and other sorts of issues. It relies on fluid pressure. So you remove the air from the cartridges ink path by pulling the air from the exit chamber until ink comes out. Every aftermarket cartridge needs this done to properly prime it. there is a small plug for air to be sucked in the back near the full port. Once you use the cartridge, you permanently remove the small plug until you remove and store the cartridges outside of the printer. Leaving this in can do what you describe also. i do the same, it’s just a matter of trial and error, thinking you found the issue and finding out it wasn’t it- until you find the real issue. i also post each time, like a mad man. No worries. to be clear, there isn’t, or shouldn’t be a vacuum in the cartridge. If there is, you left the air plug in and that’s bad and causing your issues.

My carts do the same- it’s not an issue. Just push in then pull out so its locked in place. They seem to wear with time and move easier.

Air you removing the air plugs from the cartridges when inserting them in the printer? If you are not, and have both plugs in the carts, this could be your issue.

Oh it will happen eventually, that’s why I’m doing it now while I can without the concern of a machine being down. I think it really just comes down to how many things you’ve experienced. This particular printer is new to me, but has been printing 100+ foot a day without an issue now since I received it. I’ll be down that road and likely destroy something in the process. Then I’ll know. Hopefully it works out and starts working. If not, could always see if warranty will repair it. I know anytime I tried to buy a new printhead while a printer was under warranty they basically refused because it should be covered under warranty.

I don't know. I know the p5000 has 3 seperate things. One to cap, one to suck the ink/purge, and one to nozzle check, then of course the wiper and wiper cleaner. I haven't done anything other than keep it clean, Time will have me test these ideas. I have a new Capping station so I can check it out and see how it works to see what would happen. With this printer you are in a territory I haven't been in yet.

I honestly don’t remember, I make my own.

Ink flow issue, if lines are always visible, might be time for a new printhead.

That’s good, with time it should get better if it’s decent cleaning solution.

Right, but the main thing is air could be “trapped” causing a sort of “block” creating the appearance of clogged nozzles as well. it’s why Ink charges are necessary, the typical cleaning doesn’t purge enough or fast enough to remove the air from the system. if you want to look at the head you can just use the wiper cleaning function and use a flashlight and look in there. I just did that this morning to clean the ink build up off.

Usually a symptom of a failing head if it’s not the artwork. Check for transparent pixels in the artwork as well. The nozzle checks don’t have this?

I feel like if you do that, you will likely break the printer. It’s entirely unnecessary, anything the printer can’t do, you can’t either when it comes to clogging. Worst case scenario, load a full set of cleaning carts and do several ink charges for each side. air in your line appears as clogging. i am certain this is being over thought, and will result in more issues. personally, I recommend doing ink charges until it’s fixed with DTF ink or cleaning carts. If not, in all my years, Its the begging of the end for the printer. good luck!

I can send it to you.

Use the Version 2. The p5000 puts down enough white ink with only 2 channels, but you must use four with Cadlink. Likely for the best though, I seem to use a liter every other day of white ink. Do you have the adjustment program? It’s needed to clean the wiper.

I am saying the EU printer model supports the resetter and chips. The US model printer does not. For the US model you would need to use one time use chips, which make it nearly impossible to remain profitable depending on how much you can get them for. the Europe models usually all have these types of things release for them, while the US versions do not. They make money on the ink and it's all about the Benjamin's. One set of ink for a P5000 costs $700 less than the entire brand new printer bundle for example.

The number on the chips are telling you which color they are for. In stock form, you can’t put a yellow cartridge in magenta. Each color has its own associated chip. So each set should have 0 duplicate chips, since each “color” has its own. I was able to make mine recognize the aftermarket’s by replacing the OEM’s one by one. Remove yellow, add yellow aftermarket, close door, accept, do it again. initially I spent like 3 hours doing this. now it recognizes them immediately. i have a 2nd p5000 going up soon, so I’m about to do this for a 2nd time and dread it. Just received it today actually. once you get it though, it works. Using the wrong resetter has messed up my chip, so yea be careful.

I would recommend checking the S/N with Epson and buying it direct. Limit one per S/n. as for cleaning/flushing solution, use the same you used with DTG.

The P6000 EU has resetter carts, the US version only has replacment chips, as far as I can find. I'd personally try to reset them. The p5000 said the same thing and EU stuff works on it.

Not that I am aware of unfortunately.

I will say, If you are pressing the transfers yourself you can simply wipe the face of the transfer after peeling then with a damp cloth wipe the face of the transfer and press it the 2nd time. Problem gone.

It's one of those situations where there are multiple variables than can attribute to it. Too much ink can cause it as well, It creates a longer dwell time. Overall you have a wet ink that needs to be heated to evaporate the oils in it, even hours later after printing it without curing. Once it's heated you have this layer of adhesive that seals in the oil if it doesn't evaporate entirely before the transfer starts cooling. You'll see pinholes if you are curing too hot. For me for example, my prints run through a roll printer/shaker. each print is in the curing portion about 5.5 minutes at 230-240 degrees with the extraction fan pulling air out, causing it to cycle more often. This is more than enough for a proper cure, but If I cut that time in half or even 1/3 when running a faster print mode I will run into the same issue and will need a shaker with a longer tunnel dryer to counteract the speed it's running through so it stays under the cuing portion for the same amount of time. The literal jist of it is, the ink hasn't fully cured. The oily substances are from the ink seeping through the print. Not water, Not humidity. Any experienced printer will say the same. Generally you are going to test your prints and get your ink layer right before worrying about the cure, so given the ink layer is the least it can be for CMYK and white and be correct and opaque when pressed, you then move on to curing and getting those times down right. Any change can cause adverse affects on the entire system. It's why faster machines usually run a pre-heater and a longer tunnel heater so they can fully cure the prints when they print 12" in of film in 2 minutes. so you are going to end up with a 2-3 foot long tunnel dryer to maintain that 4-5 minute dwell time. Think of it like microwaving food. It gets hot on the edges, sometimes even burns. The center is still cold. You have to let it sit on the counter for the heat to " seep" in and finish cooking it properly in the center. The same way people get " well done" steaks without overcooking them. The difference in this scenario once the film cools, that's it. It takes seconds. So you must have it dwell in a lower temperature setting for longer to heat the ink causing the glycol to evaporate instead of stay behind so it gets an even thorough cure instead of a quick edge cure. Using an extraction fan would change this variable dramatically, because the heat coming off the bulbs are over 500F and the " ambient" temp is what the machine reads. So using a fan causes it to cycle more often, allowing more direct heat to cure the prints. Without the fan, the basic " ambient" temperature may remain within the set temperature, but the print not cure correctly due to the lack of direct heat. So it should cycle the bulbs on more often, for less time to counteract these effects, while also removing the toxic fumes. It's a win-win. But, for sure you need your ink layer correct first. Start with CMYK, use the least you can without the colors being affected, then make an opaque white without it looking like a " bubble" on the film. make an ICC profile at those settings to get proper colors. You'll now have a good ink layer, not too little and not too much with good color accuracy. Move on to curing then, because if not you'll have to figure out how to cure again once you change your ink settings again. It's not every time, but most of the time the change would allow it to cure faster or slower, it also affects how much powder sticks to the prints. It's definitely a process, making it print and look okay is easy, getting everything to work together for the best possible outcome consistently over a period of time- is not and takes some patience and testing. Vibrancy, durability, hand feel, things like oily prints, prints peeling off the transfer, etc are all because the system isn't set up to work together yet. So me personally, I always start at step one, and move forward until It's all set to each other to provide a soft, vibrant, durable transfer that is the same month after month with minimal adjustments. Changing your film, inks, or powder will require you to adjust these settings again to some degree, sometimes even batch to batch if you use an inconsistent supplier. But the most basic answer is, It's under cured.

It’s under cured, ink wasn’t fully cured when it came out, within a few hours to days you’ll see it. You’ll also see little dots on the surface of the print after transferring depending on the severity.

If you use 13” film and leave the last one in, 1\2 rollers will catch the film edge.

If you do remove them all, I just removed the entire metal bracket, eventually the printed film will also hit that.