johnson4

So it just happened? or because of one of the two things? Did you get your firmware from inkchip?

This is the video

If you notice, most of the reviews are for the higher rpm motors. It’s all about gear reduction, the higher the rpm, the more power needed to maintain the torque. At such a low rpm, it really doesn’t require much from the motor. kinda like how you can see a rock crawler truck idle up a steep hill, vs a standard pickup, all about the gearing. That’s why for the slapper at 1000rpm, they went with a higher torque unit using a 550 motor, which has quite a bit of torque. Did you see the video I posted of mine? It’s the same one I sent you.

try cleaning the pickup roller, the gray roller in the back with alcohol. Also, if that doesn’t help, Try a sheet that has issues, and put some white tape/ sticker at the bottom of it and see if either of of those things help.

Are you using the form feed so it prints continuously or by sheet?

that is how mine sounded before I replaced it. I originally thought my motor/brush connection was crooked and caused binding. my OEM motor, unhooked to anything, does this. It actually never quit working, I just removed it for that reason. The replacement doesn't do that, if you watch my video. Personally, I would suggest swapping the motor again. The one I received at least, can easily hold 5-6lbs of powder in it, running at half speed as the video showed without struggling or an issue. If the motor did it at all without a load on it, I would replace it. They have bearings and gears that could be of poor quality causing the issue. After all, they are like $2 motors from china with shipping, import fees and taxes added to make them cost so much. I'd imagine duds to be 50/50. I ordered one of those speed controllers, and it's the exact same thing. I ordered it as a spare. I ordered another mini shaker during andy's closeout sale, figured it's a good idea to have one on hand relying on two of them soon. overall though, the design of the powder portion works fine and doesn't cause the binding in itself, with or without powder(5+lbs) unless yours is different from mine. In my honest opinion, I would try a replacement motor, one that doesn't sound strained or binding while rotating, that's what I think it is personally after seeing your video. Even with that though, Mine still worked fine, I just feared the motor would fail mid-use. Sometimes, During busy periods, that's not worth any amount of money, so I replaced it. If your not getting enough powder, try opening up a couple holes on the bottom ( poke holes in the tape near the center). I did that, I like my U shape to be full of powder, it adds weight and pulls the film down better, makes sure everything is coated well, and overall creates tension to smack the powder off better. . Obviously if you do that you'll run through more powder, which is why I added the box on mine.

Do you have a photo of the issue? Sometimes on my color prints, the white underbase changes colors to the ink under it just a bit. Never affected anything. I'd probably say its too much CMYK and it's mixing a bit, But if it prints fine and works I wouldn't really worry about it. People REALLY put down the ink, especially the white ink. at one point I saw people bragging on about how thick there transfer was, thicker being better. I always go for the least amount of ink for the best hand feel, and the white under base changing to the color under it a bit during curing, is right at that point. However, On the flip side, if it has a "bubble" look, it's probably too much white ink. A photo would help When printing CMYK+W, I always use less white ink compared to white only prints.

Turn it off, unplug it, press and hold the power button for a moment, turn it back on. I did this for a few hours on and off, to make sure. The only time it paper jammed was when it popped up on the screen an update was available. If your using Acro, Quite a few users are saying that RIP doesn't work well with it and does this without the update on the screen, I don't know personally.

I haven’t seen one of them have anything “ better” than the other, other than maybe support, rip softwares supported, and of course knowing the overall specs to know if it will work for you.

Also looks like they are based in CN, you can probably find better deals on aliexpress if you want to deal with importing/exporting depending on your location. if your in the US check out the website I mentioned. If not, order directly from China with purchase protection.

Don’t really know I’ve never used them. One big issue I see is the curing oven looks like it vents into the open room, without an exhaust? It’s also weird a price isn’t listed. DTFsuperstore.com has them as well, I would trust them over this website anyday.

Did you try running it in compatibility mode for windows 7?

I’ve seen both done.

lol yea, hopefully he got it fixed.

This is like the one they use on the slapper portion.

You could if you cut a hole in the side, but it isn’t necessary. The 5rpm motor I received can’t be stopped by hand and handles 5+ lbs of powder in the hopper. likely it’s just a defective motor, or it was installed slightly off center causing it to bind or something. mine originally did similar , it would just stop working after some time, and work again later. It would slow and slow until it didn’t work until I let it sit. Also, half of the rotation it sounded strained even with no powder. The motor still sounds like that when nothing is connected to it. The replacement motor didn’t do that and worked fine, for me anyway. so far the main issues I’ve had with the mini shaker: 1. Duster motor 2. Poor quality relays causing high amperage draw and failing. Probably one of the reasons others experience failing heating tubes. 3. The take up roller walks, so I put a guide in it. 4. the slapper blade is getting damaged by the bolts holding it to the bearings, but in a way that doesn’t affect functionality. Haven’t had an issue since, yet. It’s ran for maybe 1000 hours so far.

If it is the speed controller, this looks like it will work/ if not identical. https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Controller-Variable-Regulator/dp/B0779QXYSR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=DZS+Elec+10A+12V-40V+DC+Motor+Speed+Controller+12V+24V+PWM+Variable+Speed+Regulator+Governor+Switch+CCMHCN+With+Speed+Control+Knob&qid=1633139363&sr=8-3

A video showing the speeds and that I can’t stop it IMG_8173.MOV

If the shaker part works fine, then I doubt it’s the power supply leaving the controller and new motor, in my opinion, possibly the motor, or even it was installed in a bind causing an issue to the new motor. If you have any questions or updates- I’ll be here

If you decide to swap the duster/shaker controllers to rule that out, I circled where it’s labeled “motor”. Just take those two wires loose on both units and swap them to the other unit in the same position.

This is the “slapper” motor, which is also 12V. To rule out the controller, you could simply swap the motor wires on both controllers, so the duster is in the shaker position, and vise versa. If it still does it, and the shaker shows no signs of issues, it’s definitely the motor bad or loose connection.

To take the entire unit out remove the two bolts on both sides- on both side of the motor and both sides of the bearing, then slide them out of the way. Warning, it’s a PITA since the heads are next to the brush inside.

New motor:

Here is my old motor: