johnson4

Were the air vent caps open on the ink cartridges? Was it a weird “ popping” noise as it ran?

Like this for the sheet metal.

So I’ll kind of answer with my view and experiences. yours first issue- 1. I want to make sure this mini shaker is on a dedicated 20 amp outlet. voltage sag can and will cause this issue. It might sound stupid, but it doesn’t necessarily have to blow the breaker to be underpowered a bit. A 15 amp outlet would work, but the voltage sag likely from the lower gauge wire can cause issues. 2. the heating elements could just be crap, I’ve read this in a few places. It seems to be hit or miss, like a quality control problem. NOTE: along my journey with them, i made several adjustments I will outline below. I did it to my liking, so I just always seen it as “I’m picky” instead of A fix. 3. I purchased a metal plate from ebay. It was cut to size and like $50 for two ( since I had planned on two mini shakers). Anyway, I placed the metal plate under the film curing tray. My idea, it would pre heat the unit and cause the bottom to retain heat, making the temperature more consistent while heating from both sides. This helped my edge curing problem. Those heating elements cycle, from insanely hot to cool in a matter of seconds. 4. I adjusted the thermostat. They need “auto tune” ran honestly. So basically I set up the fan as needed, and everything the way it should be to operate. I then set the controller to auto tune. This tells the machine how to heat the element to get the desired temperature. THEN I further modified the settings so the heating elements cycled for a max of 12 seconds on, because if not it would make my film get too hot. So every 12 seconds it cycled off and waited a ( set amount) of time before cycling on again. Any changes in fan speed, you’ll need to do it again because that air cools the area really fast, so it needs to know that. 5. the powder sticking to your film would be unrelated to the mini shaker UNLESS it’s not slapping the edges. I’ve had good and bad film. Some the powder sticks to like crazy, some works perfect. Obviously I use the film that works. It’s also possible of static, but that could be fixed with a metal rod at the film roll before it goes into the printer. 6. you can test this by cutting a 2-3ft long section and run it through your powder manually and see if it sticks. My film looked perfect, until you ran it through powder. It was an issue with the film, and I did get a partial refund over it. If it’s not that, then I have no idea. 7. the new mini shaker I received, the bolts on the silicone slapper was not tight at all, so it was curved, making weird contact with the film. I tightened them all so it would be almost flat like the other mini shaker. The main issue here is the different revisions and poor QC. I would try added that metal plate and auto tuning your machine. I run mine at 212F, but it runs about every 2 minutes, so much faster than 4 minutes per design. I’ll send a photo in a bit of what I did.

To install the driver you need to boot your pc into disable driver signature mode, then install the driver.

If it’s only 300 to have it fixed, I’d go that route. But if you don’t know what’s wrong, and don’t replace every bad component and fix whatever caused the original issue, all those new parts will be out the window- in that case I’d buy a new one.

Yea, It can get confusing. There is quite a bit not covered by their manual actually, But it's a great starting point. Glad you figured it out!

A 12V motor running on 24v will run *theoretically* twice as fast. It’s not linear, but in general. So whatever speed you were getting with the motor you bought, would be faster than rated. that is true about the higher RPM, this one was originally designed with a 10RPM motor though. That and 24V motors have a wider range of functionality than 12V, at least in my experience. I’m assuming slower is going to be worse, because you mentioned you couldn’t get yours to go fast enough under load. It’s up to you though. With my original shaker 5rpm is almost too much, mine runs better turned down about halfway with the 5rpm motor, so like 2.5rpm. I don’t know with this one since it was originally 10RPM and has smaller holes. That’s going to be up to you and what you think with yours. I haven’t used it yet. as for the relays, I mentioned after receiving this new one, it doesn’t use mechanical relays, rather solid state relays. So my original shaker takes those Omron relays, but this new one doesn’t. I think the main issue here is the fact that they look the same, but aren’t even close and originally my version was different than yours. Without photos of your stuff, I was giving you the wrong voltage.

I would say so, yes. What you are describing is pointing exactly to that. That’s also why your 12v motors keep burning up. If I had to choose, I’d go with the 15rpm motor, I’m going to assume it’s faster due to the smaller holes. Can always turn it down, can’t turn the 5 up. if I were you, I’d also order a spare speed controller, I sent a link before. They are like $7. It’s not worth the down time if you have that issue later on.

So- if you installed a 12V motor where a 24V motor goes, that’s why it’s burning out. it should have been a 24V version IF yours said 24V on it when being removed. for the new shaker, which all they have is 15 RPM and 5RPM, stock was 10.rpm. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Eccentric-Diameter/dp/B08FBCNNN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=24V%2B10rpm&qid=1634233343&sr=8-15&th=1&psc=1

This new shaker says: its 24V and 10RPM. My previous shaker said 12V 3rpm.

I’m not entirely sure, I would assume this is related to the other issue and go away with the correction of the other issue. or it’s “aftermath” damage to the speed controller/power supply. If you have a volt meter, testing the power going to the motor. Is easy and should read 12V. I want to note something important. The original shaker I have worked on 12V. This ones working on 24V. Did the motor you remove say 12 or 24V? The one I sent you was 12V, as that is what my shaker took at the time before receiving this other version.

this sounds like the duster motor is shorted, or the wiring. It’s overloading the power supply, as a short/stalled motor would do. the take up reel is 220V, so it shouldn’t have any effect on the slapper. The sensor is 12V that triggers the take up roller though, so it sounds like it’s possibly self resetting the power supply. When overloaded they do that. Like a self resetting breaker. So it’s also surging the slapper.

On this one, I am able to overload the power supply by holding the slapper, which then shuts off both the duster and slapper, until it resets almost immediately then both turn back on. ive turned this one on max settings and letting it run to see if it overheats the power supply or something after some time.

Both of those run on the one 12 V power supply. The box back in there in one of the photos I sent. You say both are shutting off at the same time when you turn it up to high? or is it just the slapper? If so, Is it possible your motor you installed is touching the metal frame ( the tabs on the motor)? if it’s only the slapper and the duster continues to function, possibly the speed controller. have you taken the face plate off yet?( with it unplugged of course) Might be a loose connection.

As for the recycling, I never found it worth the time. Adding the hopper gave me enough time to not have to worry about it. Recycling in any way is going to inherently make powder particles float around. But you could use something like the Venturi effect, if done correctly it should only create a suction. You could also do something with like a “ trap door” that’s spring loaded. When enough weight sits on it it falls down inside, which then the spring closes it again( to seal the compartment) and triggers a timed fan to blow it back up into the hopper when the “trap door” actuated. still need some sort of air filter for the vent to stop powder from floating around. that’s two ideas I was going to try anyway, the Venturi effect was from someone else, the trap door idea was what I was going to go with at first. it’s all trial and error though. My self powdering on my cart consists of a wooden box, a 3D printer stand, and a 3/4” pvc pipe. Simple,cheap, but works consistently. It took 5 revisions to get to that, lol. for the time being, since the time saved to me isn’t worth the time to make something, I just refill my hopper every 30 minutes to an hour and empty my pan every 2 hours roughly.

Lol. I wish. Most of the questions I answer come from experience. Every now and again it’s speculation based from some similar experience so it usually doesn’t take much time to answer. as for time to do things, I’m all over the place with it. If something gets in the way of production, I don’t have an option but to fix it, however long that takes, no matter what it is. so sometimes I’ve “ been there done that” or already heading that direction anyway, like this new mini shaker for example. Used to If I wanted something, I found it broken and repaired it to be able to afford it or did without. Sometimes I’m able to make things instead. Right now I’m trying to find a way to obtain a 24” printer with either 360 nozzles per channel, or dual heads while also fine tuning this setup in the event I cant. I did this type of stuff back before google was google and YouTube existed. the people of today just get “answers” handed to them. that’s why I gravitated to this forum so much, it was so many similar people with actual knowledge, not looking for profit or views, so it was very helpful in avoiding a LARGE amount of trial and error I would have had to do alone. Overall I’m just trying to get somewhere, and I’m stuck on it until I do. Sometimes I get help, sometimes I give it. It works out in the end for everyone with an open mind. You can’t find that anywhere else, especially social media. I try to help those in similar situations if I can.

Here’s some cheaper ones: https://www.amazon.com/LOSCHEN-Adjustable-Leveling-Furniture-Workbench/dp/B09B27MXY5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=[LOSCHEN]+4+PCS+Heavy+Duty+Adjustable+Leveling+Feet+for+Furniture%2CHexagon+Nuts+Lock+Furniture+Legs+Levelers%2Cfor+Table%2C+Cabinets%2C+Workbench%2CShelving+Units+and+More&qid=1634186855&sr=8-1 If your cool with silver, they are even cheaper like $16.

I will likely use something like this on the new one to remediate this particular issue. My garage floor isn’t perfectly flat anyway, so I kind of need something to keep it from rocking anyway. https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Leveling-Furniture-Adjustable-Workbench/dp/B08VHSJQWB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Anwenk+Leveling+Feet+Heavy+Duty+Furniture+Levelers+Adjustable+Table+Leg+Leveler+w%2FLock+Nuts+for+Furniture%2CTable%2C+Cabinets%2C+Workbench%2CShelving+Units+and+More%2CBlack&qid=1634186608&sr=8-1

Yea it is, the stock pan on the new one is worse than the first one, lol.

The new shaker of mine has locking wheels. The old one had legs you put down with regular wheels.Kind of like to level the machine and lift it off the non locking wheels. The new one has the holes where they are on the old one, but no bung or feet. I lifted the old machine off the wheels with those levelers, and put a turkey pan in there. It easily holds all 5lbs of powder from my hopper, easily 8 lbs. the new shaker doesn’t have them, but I will add them, or something similar to use a similar pan. I never used the stock pan, it’s too small. If time crunches occur, I’ll find a wider thinner pan. the wider pan is awesome, because there is literally no spillage and no overflowing. Every 30 minutes to an hour I just walk over, stop the slapper, pull and dump the pan back in my hopper and turn the slapper back on, takes like 10 seconds. that’s how I did it anyway, in both the minI shaker and my home made cart build. a pan like this- or a metal pan with the handles on the side is what I use.

Glad it’s working, good to hear. So the bigger holes as described did the trick?

I don't know about video's, but you remove the star wheel rollers and make an exit tray. Other than that, everything else is normal

A wider table would work better, that’s what I used and anchored it to a couple studs.

Wet cap= put a small amount of fluid in the capping station for the printhead to rest over. It helps by removing air from the sealed area, and keeps it moist so the ink doesn’t dry in the printhead. damper- some printers use dampers instead of ink cartridges, some use both. It sits on top of the printhead. If your cartridges don’t go on top of the printhead, you have dampers. They also usually have a built in filter or screen to stop ink particles from clogging the printhead. wicking is something acting to absorb or draw off liquid by capillary action. Usually something you see in DTG.

Have you tried this? When I took my 15000 apart I don’t think the printhead holes aligned with this one. I’m making individual “cartridges” that are easy to remove and clean if needed, and you just pop on the damper.