johnson4

Did you try my previous reccomendation of test printing this same file/settings with regular paper and see if it prints correctly?

Yea, The take-up roll, They accidently showed the film going well over the edge of the machine and quickly aimed the camera upwards. So when the film should go on the tube, it instead "walks" left and right making the film crooked/crinkled etc and causes issues. It's an issue on all the machines I've seen. Simple guides would easily fix the issue.

Yea, internally it’s pretty simple. 2 speed controllers, 2 solid state relays ( 10amp/25amp) one Temperature controller, one power supply. if it’s not the 500W inverter, the next thing id replace is the internal power supply if the issues are with the shaker and duster. I don’t see the relays or temperature controller causing any issues.

Yes, absolutely. I don’t think it would affect the motors much, rather the power supply powering the motors and the heating elements. Andy included the 3000W inverter with my purchase, which might be overkill. Personally I think the wattage rating is based on the output, not the input, so a 1500W/2000W converter would work just as good with good overhead. My 3000W gets pretty warm after 6-8 hours of use, but no electrical issue so far. not to point you in the wrong direction, but maybe the converter is overheating, causing power issues. If not, it doesn’t make sense to me either. I forget things all the time, no worries. Important part is getting you running.

It would work, but honestly looks of lesser quality, as well the power switch is in the back, but that’s up to you.

https://www.amazon.com/YaeCCC-Voltage-Transformer-Converter-3000Watts/dp/B07GTG9JQJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1W29JQ2KPQCUG&dchild=1&keywords=YaeCCC+3000VA+Voltage+Transformer+Power+Converter+110V%2F220V+Converter+AC-AC+3000VA&qid=1635433081&sprefix=yaeccc+3000va+voltage+transformer+power+converter+110v%2F220v+converter+ac-ac+3000va%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-1

I also want to point out, your surge protector is only rated for 15 amps for what I can find.

Turns out I can’t show you an example, I don’t have any inadequate cords or outlets. I’m like 10 feet away from my breaker box. If anything though, running a 500w converter alone would cause issues. anyway, hopefully you get the point though. I’m using two of these. I found some for $79 on Amazon, and next time will go with those. Ignore the hot glue, the converter outlet clips broke so it kept falling inside. That was my temporary solution.

With 25 ft extension cord, voltage drop, Totally acceptable though. My run is in total 40 feet. I AM using a 12 gauge extension cord.

The amps, watts, and voltage with my unit fully powered up on my dedicated circuit. Now, let me add a 25 for extension cord.

My dedicated outlet reading: 123 volts, the unit powered on but standby power usage is 58 watts. ( with my exhaust fan).

There are a ton of variables when you talk about this. But I want to be simple. Breakers do go bad. If your using GFCI, that might flip your breaker too. Ground Fault, is there to flip the breaker if it detects ANY potential difference on the ground, to protect you. im not an electrician, so I’m only speaking of opinion here, since mistakes in this category can cause a house fire or worse. following the proper power requirements is a must. The speed controllers work/mount the same on both units. I’ll check and see if there is anything aside from the main power that would affect all of these things as you have described.

This is a big problem I think. 1. The power converter you sent says it’s 500W. You need at least3000W. The converters say to run it at 50 percent load, and the mini shaker pulls 1500W alone, so 3000W. 2. electricity doesn’t work that way. Let me explain. voltage drop. Let’s say when your house was made, they ran 14 garage wire. The max is 15 amps at that outlet. Now let’s say they ran 12 gauge wire. The max is 20 Amps at that outlet. HOWEVER, electricity has its limitations. After about 60 feet, the voltage drop is significant enough to cause that same gauge wire to drop a rating. So, a 12 gauge wire ran 100 feet, would only be good for 15 amps, 14 gauge would be good for less than 10 and is not normally done or allowed. the reason for this, with electricity, the voltage( pressure/potential) is half of the equation for how many amps( flow of electricity) it needs. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance, so the lower the voltage, which makes it require more amps, which creates more heat and even a fire hazard. so, 120V X 20Amps= 2400 watts. ( normal) so 100VX20 amps= 2000 watts. with voltage sag, the maximum allowed amount is 5 percent of 120V. This depends on the power factor ( type of load). but what I’m saying is, you can’t just extend electricity without reducing the allowed current. So after 100 feet, that outlet can only handle 15 amps (including the house wiring and extension cord). if your popping the breaker, you have an issue. My shaker runs at max 1100 watts from when I tested it. It would easily run on a 15 amp breaker- that doesn’t have voltage drop. if you are using a 500w converter, your are under powering your machine and overloading your converter. Mixed with possible power limitations at the outlet- lots of problems which can damage the converter, heating elements in the shaker, and even cause a fire. so I would recommend using a 15 amp outlet with a 3000W converter at minimum. ( remember these are circuits, not 15 amps per outlet, rather per circuit, so technically 15A per circuit) No 50ft extension. probably fix your issues. You can buy a meter for $15 on Amazon and test your outlets voltage before and after the cord if needed. 115V volts is fine, anything less, I wouldn’t use it ( with or without the extension cord).

but most important, how are you going to circulate/mix the white ink?

It sounds like it’s possible, I’ll check and see. can I ask, what converter are you using and how many watts? Also, is that hooked to a 20 amp outlet?

Yea, it doesn’t look too bad at all. Sucks to still see the film walking on what appears to be a decent machine.

Yea, you just need something to guide it onto the roll. I call it “ walking” when the film goes back and forth on the roll, causing the issues make the guides the edge of the roll- boom. Problem solved. Cardboard would probably work well too. When I make a set for the new mini shaker ( they are different of course) I can send you wood ones as well, or acrylic for a cost if needed. yea. Most things have simple answers, they just usually aren’t pretty. It’s the first thing I tried and worked fine for me. Maybe there is something else, I don’t know, but that’s what I did to make it stop.

I laser cut some guides for the take up roller. Fixed the issue entirely.

This- yes. It’s exactly what happened to me.

Yea, I don’t know, never ran into the issue. Hopefully your working with windows 10 or older. Contact EKprint, or the person you bought it from. They’ll help.

Yea, I notice this issue too when it’s colder, I turn my fan down a bit as well. The plate does help a lot, but cold air whishing in can make it heat irregular. I would lower my vent speed a bit in the winter if possible. auto tune is built into the temperature controller, at least it is on mine. what this does is the controller “learns” it’s environment. Any type of element, or situation can be controlled with the same controller. So I set the fan vent speed, from a cold startup you go into the settings and select auto tune. This teaches the thermostat it’s environment, how quickly it cools, and how to maintain the exact heat. The plates help with this, but would need ran again after adding them. I then tell it to keep the elements on a max of 12 seconds for mine. The heat coming off the coils is WAYY hotter than the set temperature, so if it needs to run for 20 seconds before getting to temperature ( or hitting the stock on time limit) it could be well over 500 degrees right under the element, burning the film. Using 12-13 seconds allows the coils to heat, but not overheat so it cycles more often to prevent film burn. just look up Rex c-100 auto tune/ manual.

Probably need more white ink.

The idea is to have a thick plate under it so it absorbs and retains heat- so it heats more evenly. It fixed my issue with that anyway. I went with the one in the photo. I could have went with thicker material, but I’m cheap and luckily it worked for me, lol. the plate size for mine was- 15”X 14” 7/8” and it just sits under the original. I just messaged and ask for it to be cut.

The original plate stays in place- the thicker metal is placed under it to help retain heat, im holding the original plate up so the other plate can be seen. You just place it under the original. the guy I bought it from cut it exact to size free of charge.

That only ever happened to me when the ink didn’t flow, I don’t know other than that.