johnson4

I use Atools. I’m not sure what you mean when you say pro program, the one mine came with just says Atools. There is a password protected area with adjustments. It’s been awhile since I’ve used it so I don’t remember what’s in there.

Have you looked in the menu the requires a password?

No problem. As for the alignments and Cadlink, I just printed an image with thin lines from Cadlink and adjusted the program. when I made a perfect alignment straight from the printer then sent prints from Cadlink it would be off. Aligning it from Cadlink took a little longer and some effort but I didn’t have an issue after that. I used maintop like once, so I’d your using that I don’t know, probably the same steps.

All I could say is to reach out to who you purchased it from. I have never experienced that so I have no idea.

You’re welcome. Just go slow with the tap is all I can say. I don’t remember exactly but it’s been 6+ months with the repair so it should work. I know I left a few tap sizes to go if it happened again so I had options. Finding a replacement brush was a dead end for me.

Just use a tap set to retap the hole larger, go one size larger and get a matching larger set screw. Both sides need it to be tight or it will slip off the motor shaft. If you don’t know they sell M3- thru M-8 tap sets and m3-m8 bolt sets at various lengths. I think it was like $25 for both. mine had a steel insert in the center. The issue was the brush was too tight in there causing too much friction once powder was in there. I used an old pair of hair clippers and shorted the bristles a bit at a time until it operated smoothly. Hasn’t broken again yet. just my DIY solution. Good luck!

Glad you got it together. I will say the matching shaker for this printer is very well built and one of the best one's I have seen/used under 24". Good luck!

I’m not saying you should use oem inks, I did the first time. I also didn’t on my other two and didn’t have this issue. oem inks flush out easily, I ran two ink charges with the adjustment program and all was well if you did do that. if I were you I’d try another supplier of chips. Maybe ask around see if maybe it’s An update disabling the chips. my issue was alternating chips would work, then they wouldn’t work when I added more cartridges. They never all showed X at the same time though. If they all always show they don’t work and it has never once asked to use “ non genuine” carts I would try new chips from a different supplier first and compare firmware versions with a known functional unit with aftermarket carts.

Oem cart has a sensor inside that prevents you from just resetting and using them when the ink runs out. I pulled the sensor and put it on oem chip, and used that on refillable chip. Not very economical but can work.

I agree. P800 head works in p600, but p600 head won’t work in P800 from real world use. Rest I’m unsure of.

Yep, can’t convert any old printer so got lucky in that for sure.

Could be. They should be 200ML carts and chips. I have about 10 sets of chips and every now and again one won’t reset, but nothing like you are experiencing. is also possible to use OEM chips. I did at first as well to make sure if they didn’t reset the Chinese chips. Messy work, but I removed ink sensor from ink bag( old R4900 empty cart sensors will work on them too), solder to backside of oem chip and sealed the sensor with ink on it so it would always read “ full” or not empty. After first reset it says non genuine, but also worked. I did that as backup method but haven’t needed to use them for that reason.

I did initial charge on 1 of mine. The others I didn’t and it worked fine. I usually sell my own ink to lower costs if it has any value.

That is normal, removing the star wheels does that with sheet printing. Some users create a suction platform, but usually doesn't help. It's just the nature of the beast. Normally the star wheels would pull the last 2 inches forward with the front rollers. Other than that, glad it's working.

Maybe it's an updated firmware or something preventing the use of the chips. I know my first one was finicky, I spent 2 days getting it to read them- after that it was fine. I also setup the printer normally with OEM carts though the first time. Printed some posters then converted it. Maybe you received bad chips.

I purchase them from China. they aren’t universal and you’ll need to know the wattage, voltage, diameter, length and style. Usually they have “ around a bout” similar bulbs. If you want exact usually you’ll have to have them made. Usually best thing to do is reach out to the people you purchased your device from. my statement above on the wattage was also incorrect. My bulbs were 400W. I misunderstood the way the 110/220V converters worked initially.

I’m not aware of any, they only have “adapters” for different versions of the dx5 which has been discontinued for some time so any variation you need will be very expensive. If your talking about replacing the nozzle plate, I’ve never found anyone successfully doing that long term. Sorry, I just moved on and tossed all that stuff So I don’t know much about them. I have a like new Chinese printer that uses dx5 heads going in the dumpster later next week. Too expensive with plenty of other cheaper options.

Nice job. Simple yet effective.

I’m not sure, just a standard silicone element mat. If that’s what those use, yeah. It works fine as long as you keep contact points. Film likes to bubble or “ slightly raise” as it’s heated. ( the below is unrelated) me personally I need a shaker with extended curing like on the one I’m building. I’m looking for at least 24” of cure tunnel in length, aiming for 26” in length. This will make the fastest of printers cure time be a minimum of 3 minutes for a proper cure. I designed a lid and insert and made the body. but to have the insert cut/bent in stainless would be over $150 alone plus I’d still need to weld it and then the $50 actual lid, welding and prep/ powder coat for it as well- seems like a bunch of money and work that could be avoided using the mats. I started a design with laser cut steel that was to be bent and welded for the frame but it got expensive and over complicated fast so I scratched that. you can buy linear rail dirt cheap in comparison. I created a 3D mock-up of the build( I realized I could do this to save on design costs) and it’s only about $250 in total for the entire frame for a 26” X 26” curing portion, the duster/shaker portion and the preheater/take up roller. The duster box( the box where the powder meets the film and shakes off by slapping) is about $60 plus powder coating. Add in the preheater ( another heated mat), the powder box/powder distribution portion and the take up wheel set- For an extended 24” shaker capable of being run from a single touch screen if desired would be under $1,000. my build quote on the whole thing is under $1,000 for a professional looking, powder coated ( sealed with sheet metal, wouldn’t even know it was linear rail) shaker capable of handling 9 IPM( inches per minute X 24” wide) printer feed while still curing properly. The whole unit comes up to about 1500W at full power. Since it’s bottom heated and will retain heat better though it will be more consistent and cycle less often using less electric with less wasted heat. It will have its own adjustable exhaust fan built into the lid. overall, it could be a complete DIY kit in a box for a professional running shaker, I just need to finish a few small part designs and get the rest of the parts into production. the “ prototype” I used to test the cure times and all that before finalizing this stuff has been working well, it’s just the bulbs that keep throwing me off. The only logical reason is cost, but the mats are hardly any more here in the US and are much more efficient and safer. anyway, love to hear any follow up of the changes made to make it work in your side.

Something I’m going to try with my DIY shaker build( pro model) is using heated mats with aluminum plate instead of bulbs altogether. The plates will “ hump” In the middle to ensure complete contact. The plates will be temperature controlled. Cheaper and easier for me with a build, also entirely consistent. I ordered a custom sized and wattage/voltage mat that will cure the film instead of the bulbs, it should be here in a few days. preliminary testing shows it will work great, and remove the need for the exhaust to be “perfect” and get a complete edge to edge cure. if that works well I’ll follow up on that as well. Save some electric and hassle with bulb replacements.

Thanks. I hadn’t used any like that. I found this one on Amazon- IIVVERR AC 220V 400W Quartz Heater Tube Infrared Heating Pipe 33cm (AC 220V 400W Tubo calentador de cuarzo Elemento de calefacción por infrarrojos Tubo de desinfección 33cm looks just like that one, just apparently 33cm

The people there also own this forum, great bunch glad you got it situated.

all the nozzle checks show fine?

You also need to consider the 15" of space you have where the film runs. Do you have it running in the center? That shaker I have like this one, It absolutely needs replacements. I've been using it non-stop for 2 years. One bulb is shot and the other two have hot spots.

I was wrong, I looked back at my notes. You want 400W bulbs, not 300W bulbs. Anything over 400W bulbs will burn the film, anything less has a hard time curing properly and cycling properly. so 400W is perfect. That is actually what I am STILL looking for. I am trying to find 6 of them, haha.